Thanks for the kind words mate, not sure why the link doesn't work as it works for me. I love the look too, it makes me chuckle that I can crawl under the car without jacking it up. Also when I jack it up, now I need a block of wood or the jack won't go high enough.
. I just need to do the OWU test on it to confirm it isn't too tight. If it is I'll need to release some fluid.
Could be worse. In these parts every SUV is a Jeep regardless of make!
You have been busy and accomplish heaps! Well done, its looking greatDid a few more wee jobs yesterday, first when I had the back of the car lifted to fit the trailing arms, I pushed on the propshaft and didn't like the amount of movement. I had a spare front mount for the diff from a job I had done before, so I fitted it. Then I noticed a lot of oil stains on the diff so I topped it up with oil. I know I should have drained and refilled and checked to see why there were stains but I couldn't be arsed and just topped it up. Turns out it didn't need much anyway so I'm pretty sure it'll be fine.
Then as I may have mentioned before the boot was stinking of dog so I ripped out the boot carpet as well as the material on the rear seats which was covered in dog hair.
As expected the fish bowl was kinda wet but not as bad as I might have expected since the boot door window was jammed up when I bought the car and the window just closed against the outside edge of the seal. I found another potential cause for water getting in behind the plastic side panels. At the very back corner on both sides there is a rubber grommet which was missing on one side and fell out of the other when I touched it. These holes are fairly well out of the way of road spray but some damp is bound to get in if they are missing. I just sealed them with loads of silicone sealant. Thankfully the dog smell seems to have gone, so I refitted the rear plastic panels after sealing the holes.
Got a photo of the extended trailing arms.
And this was after mucking about in a field today with them fitted
At one point I tried to drive through a particularly soggy part where a tractor got stuck a few months ago while topping the field.
Funny old thing but I got stuck too.
Well almost, I was able to rock it out in reverse.
So the VCU I reconned seems to be working fine, I opened the door so I could watch the back wheel and my mate did the same. All four wheels were spinning at the same time with only low revs
Nah! Drippy taps don't count in Landyzone.You inspired (or is that shamed!) me into action today Ali! I saw how much you've achieved - so I thought I really must accomplish some things today. Not just the mundane every day things like mowing the lawn and walking the dog - which I have done as well - but make sure I do something constructive.
Using your inspiration (OK shaming) my first thought was to also check my diff oil - never done it, had the car 5 years and in that time destroyed an IRD - could probably do with checking
Nope I thought that's just copying..... and it may not need doing anyway (it is remotely possible).
Then I had a brain storm, when we moved into this house 11 years ago, the kitchen taps were dripping - needed to be fixed - not been done - and they're still dripping - only a lot worse. So today I HAVE CHANGED MY KITCHEN TAPS - hope you don't mind that I triumphantly shouted that
In my defense, I have changed the washers a few times, but the seats are cracked and they won't seal..... but I knew that 11 years ago!
So new taps fitted and that's also got to be some brownie points from Mrs Grumpy as well. She has gone to Melbourne for the weekend with our daughter and they get back in the morning - I wonder if she'll notice they've stopped dripping !!! .....after 11 years of moaning at me.
Note in diary 30/10/2022 : Check diff oil
Not much point in having mudflaps on my car, Don't suspect they'd last long.I sussed today why we are both right about lengthening the trailing arm. I was sure my calcs showed that it wouldn't be possible - but obviously seeing the pics of your car it is.
Anyway - we went up to the airport today to get some tickets to come over to the UK next year... as it happens, today also saw the first scheduled A380 flight arrive into Christchurch, so photo op in the carpark
Looking at the picture I noticed how thick the mudflaps are and they are moulded into the rear of the wheel arch - so although I recon I could just about squeeze a tyre with a 1" bigger radius in, is there absolutely no more room. Taking the mudflap away frees up loads of space.
View attachment 109891
Thanks mate, I sincerely hope by stuff you mean other cars, bits of cars or tools. If you mean household c**p then you really need to sort your prioritys out.Looking good Ali!
I know precisely what you mean about a Project Car - the lack of a need to ensure that it is still road worthy at the end of the day is truly liberating, and enables you to get on with the big jobs you'd otherwise put off!
Sadly I don't have a garage large enough (or not already full of stuff) to fit a car, so I do have to tidy up at the end of the day. On the positive side, this means that I account for all my tools - especially things like ratchet spanners and sockets which otherwise have a habit of disappearing!!! LOL
I only wanted to fit Polybushes!
uh ?So the VCU I reconned seems to be working fine, I opened the door so I could watch the back wheel and my mate did the same. All four wheels were spinning at the same time with only low revs
uh ?
Simply won't make any difference at all. Fluid fill level is nothing at all to do with static tightness. Adding or removing fluid will only effect the commencement of hump mode, and the so called owut can test nothing of the sort. You CANNOT adjust the static 'tightness' by adding or removing fluid - shear fallacy. - as said, you can only adjust hump mode
There is also no point in turning a single rear wheel with a lever, total waste of time. Just drive the thing and test it on full lock forward and reverse. If you feel any discernible bonding your vcu needs replacing. If not, and you get the appropriate rear wheel movement in low grip conditions then it is fine as it seems to be from your test.
Also drive it on a normal road for a couple of miles and check for any heat build up due to the unknown effects of the recon. Be careful though as your suspension geometry and dynamic effects are now almost certainly compromising the safety of the vehicle and others when used on the public roads.
uh ?
Simply won't make any difference at all. Fluid fill level is nothing at all to do with static tightness. Adding or removing fluid will only effect the commencement of hump mode, and the so called owut can test nothing of the sort. You CANNOT adjust the static 'tightness' by adding or removing fluid - shear fallacy. - as said, you can only adjust hump mode
There is also no point in turning a single rear wheel with a lever, total waste of time. Just drive the thing and test it on full lock forward and reverse. If you feel any discernible bonding your vcu needs replacing. If not, and you get the appropriate rear wheel movement in low grip conditions then it is fine as it seems to be from your test.
Also drive it on a normal road for a couple of miles and check for any heat build up due to the unknown effects of the recon. Be careful though as your suspension geometry and dynamic effects are now almost certainly compromising the safety of the vehicle and others when used on the public roads.
Err, sorry Joe but I'm speaking from experience here gained by testing, not just theory. The last VCU I worked on I over filled it and the OWU test gave a time of around 45 secs to 1 minute. Can't remember the exact numbers but it was too tight and releasing a little fluid fixed the issue and brought it back down to around 20 secs. Others here have had the same results by adding and subtracting fluid. If I recall correctly that is the same test Bells do to test their newly reconned VCU's (albeit on the bench) for the same reason.uh ?
Simply won't make any difference at all. Fluid fill level is nothing at all to do with static tightness. Adding or removing fluid will only effect the commencement of hump mode, and the so called owut can test nothing of the sort. You CANNOT adjust the static 'tightness' by adding or removing fluid - shear fallacy. - as said, you can only adjust hump mode
There is also no point in turning a single rear wheel with a lever, total waste of time. Just drive the thing and test it on full lock forward and reverse. If you feel any discernible bonding your vcu needs replacing. If not, and you get the appropriate rear wheel movement in low grip conditions then it is fine as it seems to be from your test.
Also drive it on a normal road for a couple of miles and check for any heat build up due to the unknown effects of the recon. Be careful though as your suspension geometry and dynamic effects are now almost certainly compromising the safety of the vehicle and others when used on the public roads.
Trust me, there ain't no room for any household debris in my garage! It's full of bits of car! Predominantly MGF, but also TF, ZT and now Freelander!Thanks mate, I sincerely hope by stuff you mean other cars, bits of cars or tools. If you mean household c**p then you really need to sort your prioritys out.
My Mother in law started talking about me putting washing lines and tumble dryers etc in my new garage after I built it. She was soon put right and told the garage was for cars and working on cars!
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