Freelander lack of power

Hi everyone,

After searching with regards to lack of power I unplugged the MAF sensor and it totally transformed the td4 (FL 1 2006).
So I purchased a new Bosch MAF and plugged it in. It's now back to its sluggish old self.
I have checked the vacuum hoses and they seem ok.
I also have a egr delete kit on and that vacuum pipe has a small amount of suction but is obviously placed onto the blank nipple.
I have plugged in a obd reader and downloaded the torque app. Not sure how reliable it is.
I was getting reading of around 7psi under full throttle and giving it some.
Also coolant temp of around 58c all the time.
Also the MAF was giving at what seemed ok fluctuation reading depending on throttle.
The intake map reading stayed at 14.5 at all times but then again I'm not sure if this app can read that.
I'm just abit confused now as I'm sure the MAF sensor was going to fix things but it's back to the no power below 1800-2000 revs.
Any help would be great.
Adam

Nicksi57 said:

Also coolant temp of around 58c all the time.

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Adam, did you genuinely read 58°C as your coolant temperature, or was it a typo for 85°C? If it was 58°C then you need to do a thermostat, either the original one, which is a pain to do but its better imho, or a lot of folks have put a renault unline thermostat into the top hose, much easier, but a bit "Heath Robinson" if you ask me, but either will be a vast improvement on an engine running at 58°C.

Hi thanks for the reply.
Yes was a genuine 58c. The needle never really goes about the 10-11 o clock position. I read that freelanders run cool but obviously that's very cool. As the heaters stay luke warm even on a motorway run.

i thought that temp reading must be wrong and miss typed!
A fault can be one thing or a build up of related issues.
Low temp and it thinks the engine is cold, so will add more fuel.
First thing is to start with what you know, and get it running at a decent temperature.
I think the Map reading should be constant, with a rise at first when accelerator pressed then return to steady reading

Nicksi57 said:

Hi thanks for the reply.
Yes was a genuine 58c. The needle never really goes about the 10-11 o clock position. I read that freelanders run cool but obviously that's very cool. As the heaters stay luke warm even on a motorway run.

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Start with replacing the thermostat, once you get the engine running at the right temperature even if the lack of power remains, you'll have a better base line to work from. Trying to work out the cause of the lack of power from a point where the basis of the engine is running cold is just going to cloud the issue.

I have purchased a gates 89c thermostat. So I'll replace that. Hopefully thatll get the temp issue sorted. Then I can look at the lack of power. Just really annoying how with the MAF unplugged it revs well and pulls really well.
I've plugged it back in but it's awful. No EML at anytime though unplugged or plugged in.
As the boost pressure seemed to max out at 7-8psi would that be a issue?

Hey, just some pointers, when you unplug a maf the ecu normally changes mode, it can no longer run a calculated map so runs a fixed pre determined map like open and closed loop on petrols. The point being most cars are at least a bit faster with the maf unplugged so don’t be too surprised about that.

On the map sensor subject I believe most turbo diesel 4 cylinder engines usually run about atmospheric pressure in the manifold at idle so around 100 kpa would be about normal, at full boost it’s usually in the early 200’s of kpa, never looked at mine at full power so not sure of the exact figure.

I would look at your boost (map) sensor seen as maf is new and the ecu uses the map reading to decide how much boost to apply and to see how much boost it’s making so a bad sensor can easily cause over or underboost. Also map and maf are used together to calculate fuel input and boost so when you unplug one it can effect the use of the other.

Look at maf and map readings on live data in graph form as numerical digits are slow to update and often don’t show pauses or jumps in sensor info where graphs do. You should be able to see all the reading gradually climb up and down steadily although bear in mind if you wanna see high boost figures you’ll have to floor it as once the rpm is up it reduces boost a lot.

That’s the easiest way to check your intake sensors output.

Someone else may have better exact figures for these engines lol mine hasn’t broke that way yet