- Posts
- 302
- Location
- Worcestershire
Fix was to splice in a new wiring loom plug to the MAFF. When i pulled the pins in the old one i noticed some discolouration. As I'm not dependent on the vehicle i decided to take a punt and splice in a new plug. Anyway, it seems to have done the trick - i now have boost with the MAFF connected. Disclaimer: I guess there is an outside possibility that the ECU finally cleared itself of the old MAFF adaptions after all the plugins and unplugging of the battery. I can't say anything for certain as I am simply poking around and hoping for the best. But it may be worth considering if you are at your wits end.
Got a new freelander 1 td4 van very cheaply and am now trying to fix the reason it was so cheap. Issue is: with MAF sensor disconnected i can rev the engine, with it connected I can't. I have so far
Replaced vacuum hoses from reservoir to EGR and boost solenoids.
Checked for splits in boost hoses.
swapped the MAF for a bosch one off a newer spare engine. They both behave the same so I am guessing it is unlikely both are faulty.
swapped the intake manifold for a newer cleaner one with a newer MAP sensor attached - which looked clean.
When i press the pedal with the MAF connected I can barely get it to climb the rev counter. Soon as I disconnect MAF i can get revs (plus some smoke).
Question: if i can rev the engine with the MAF disconnected would that mean the turbo is ok? The air has to get to the combustion chamber via the turbo, so I am presuming there can't be a physical blockage or mechanical breakdown. Don't the vanes have to spin to allow air to pass through?
I'm just looking for pointers. I am happy to poke around but don't want to waste time going down dead ends.
It may be worth mentioning that there are a few frayed wires going to sensors. The air temperature sensor may be bust because when i disconnect it it makes no difference to running. But how critical that is i do not know.
Got a new freelander 1 td4 van very cheaply and am now trying to fix the reason it was so cheap. Issue is: with MAF sensor disconnected i can rev the engine, with it connected I can't. I have so far
Replaced vacuum hoses from reservoir to EGR and boost solenoids.
Checked for splits in boost hoses.
swapped the MAF for a bosch one off a newer spare engine. They both behave the same so I am guessing it is unlikely both are faulty.
swapped the intake manifold for a newer cleaner one with a newer MAP sensor attached - which looked clean.
When i press the pedal with the MAF connected I can barely get it to climb the rev counter. Soon as I disconnect MAF i can get revs (plus some smoke).
Question: if i can rev the engine with the MAF disconnected would that mean the turbo is ok? The air has to get to the combustion chamber via the turbo, so I am presuming there can't be a physical blockage or mechanical breakdown. Don't the vanes have to spin to allow air to pass through?
I'm just looking for pointers. I am happy to poke around but don't want to waste time going down dead ends.
It may be worth mentioning that there are a few frayed wires going to sensors. The air temperature sensor may be bust because when i disconnect it it makes no difference to running. But how critical that is i do not know.
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