Freelander help

I am new to he landrover world and just picked up a 2003 freelander td4 with 82500 miles on the clock.

The issue I have is between 50-70 mph the car vibrates and wobbles and the gear stick shakes pretty bad. This seems to only happen when accelerating and settles down at motorway speed after a while

Have read all sorts posts about drive shafts and prop shaft issues to even wheel bearing troubles.

Or could it be as simple as tyes out of balance ?

All help greatly appreciated

i would check your rear tires, heard once that if the steering wheel wobbles it the front tires, if you feel it in yr seat its the rear tires. They are also sensitive to there being different tires on each corner plus the depth of tread being different. ie they have change just one tire after a puncture.

I'd start with checking tyre pressures ,mine hates 32 psi but is as smooth as a smooth thing at 30psi

Wobbling of the power unit can often be attributed to the front driveshafts, notably the in board tripod joints.

However this effect is normally only noticed at slow driveshaft rotation speeds, generally below 40 MPH.

For there to be a power unit wobble at higher speeds. I suspect that the transmission is under strain, caused by transmission windup.

So I'd be making sure all tyres are identical. Same make, same model, same size, same 30 PSI pressure and the least worn on the rear.

This strict tyre maintenance is vital if the transmission is to maintain in good health. Incorrect tyre maintenance is the cause of many Freelanders being scrapped after catastrophic transmission failure.

So all tyres need to be checked. If the tyres are a mish-mash of different types, then that's the most likely cause. If correct tyres aren't immediately affordable, then the propshafts and VCU need removing until the tyres are sorted. However do the One Wheel Up Test before removing the propshafts. This will allow it's condition to be gauged, so a replacement can be arranged if needed.

If all tyres are spot on as described above, then the One Wheel Up Test should be carried out, simply to prove or eliminate the VCU as a possible cause.

Once the 4WD system is eliminated, then other avenues need to be investigated.

Hi all thanks for the reply

Currently it has hankook dynapro tyres on the front and event ML698 off road tyes to the rear.

I'm suspecting then it' the rear tyres causing the issue.

My question is do all 4 tyres need to match or can I get away with just replacing the rears ?

All 4x tyres need to be the same make/model/size on a Freelander 1

If I was you, I'd drive under 50 or over 70. Problem solved.

Merry Christmas.....Col

Bobthecar said:

Hi all thanks for the reply

Currently it has hankook dynapro tyres on the front and event ML698 off road tyes to the rear.

I'm suspecting then it' the rear tyres causing the issue.

My question is do all 4 tyres need to match or can I get away with just replacing the rears ?

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Read Nodge's answer again, then follow his advice. Do it immediately or your drive train could/will trash itself VERY soon, leaving you with a bill big enough to write off the car.

Also check the carrier bearings on your prop either side of the vcu I had a wobble on my old car and it turned out to be them

Hi all

Update on previous problems

Prop shaft centre bearings replaced
X4 same brand tyres
X1 fron track rod end
X2 front drop links
4 wheel alignment

Car still has the wobble at speed

Any more idea ?????

If it's running as a FWD, then the front driveshafts can show wear to the in board joints. This makes the power unit shake while accelerating from rest, up to about 40 Mph.

There is a shake on initial acceleration then calms until motorway speed then is vibrates/wobbles again.
It makes a whooshing sound and handles like a wheel bearing issue although they are fine.

You'll feel the gear stick wobbling during initial acceleration from standstill if the drive shaft is iffy.
Have you checked all of the joints and bushes? Have you tried running it without the propshaft?
The VCU damper can cause a vibration but you'll feel it through your bum instead of from the front.

The gear stick wobbles in acceleration and normal driving.
The wobble/vibration seems to be from the rear
It's just been serviced and nothing was mentioned about worn bushes.
I haven' tried it without the drive shaft I don' think I am brave enough to try and remove it

Bobthecar said:

The gear stick wobbles in acceleration and normal driving.
The wobble/vibration seems to be from the rear
It's just been serviced and nothing was mentioned about worn bushes.
I haven' tried it without the drive shaft I don' think I am brave enough to try and remove it

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The vibration could be the rear diff wobbling in its mounts.
Why was it converted to FWD? The diff could be failing and have a stiff point in its rotation? It could also simply be wobbling about because the bushes aren't under any rear load, like when the car is still a 4WD.

Nodge68 said:

The vibration could be the rear diff wobbling in its mounts.
Why was it converted to FWD? The diff could be failing and have a stiff point in its rotation? It could also simply be wobbling about because the bushes aren't under any rear load, like when the car is still a 4WD.

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It hasnt been converted to FWD prop still fitted.

So if the car is not under any rear load on the bushes the wobble is normal ?

Bobthecar said:

The gear stick wobbles in acceleration and normal driving.
The wobble/vibration seems to be from the rear
It's just been serviced and nothing was mentioned about worn bushes.
I haven' tried it without the drive shaft I don' think I am brave enough to try and remove it

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If you didn't ask the garage to check for worn bushes then they probably won't have, so assume nothing there. In my experience garages will only do the bare minimum to get rid of your car as quickly as possible.

Bobthecar said:

It hasnt been converted to FWD prop still fitted.

So if the car is not under any rear load on the bushes the wobble is normal ?

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It's easy to check the propshaft mounts, just reach under the car, grap the propshaft near the rear diff and push it around, if it moves and feels lose then that is probably your issue.
Have you checked your VCU yet with the one wheel up test. If not you probably should. Google it if unsure what to do.
A garage should only charge an hour or so in labour to take off the propshaft if you aren't happy doing it yourself.

Not done the vcu test yet but have checked the prop and it is solid and does not move.
The diff mounts look ok and dont seem to have anybplay either
The rear drive shafts have play though they don't move up and down but do move side to side.

Is this normal

In theory with only 82k miles the VCU should be OK but best check it soon. Just jack up one rear wheel, put a wheel brace on a nut and try to turn the wheel. If it turns without too much force yer probably OK. On my first Fl1 I couldn't make it turn at all that way so I knew the VCU was shot.
To prove if the issue is propshaft related or not taking the propshaft off is pretty easy. No special tools required and will only take a couple of hours.
If you have ramps, drive one side onto them, if not drive up onto some blocks of wood or concrete.
You should use torque sockets to loosen the bolts but I don't have any that fit so have always done it with 1/4" sockets and never had a problem.
Take the bolts out of either end and the four holding up the VCU. Catch the VCU on your chest and your sorted.

Alibro said:

In theory with only 82k miles the VCU should be OK but best check it soon. Just jack up one rear wheel, put a wheel brace on a nut and try to turn the wheel. If it turns without too much force yer probably OK. On my first Fl1 I couldn't make it turn at all that way so I knew the VCU was shot.
To prove if the issue is propshaft related or not taking the propshaft off is pretty easy. No special tools required and will only take a couple of hours.
If you have ramps, drive one side onto them, if not drive up onto some blocks of wood or concrete.
You should use torque sockets to loosen the bolts but I don't have any that fit so have always done it with 1/4" sockets and never had a problem.
Take the bolts out of either end and the four holding up the VCU. Catch the VCU on your chest and your sorted.

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Thanks ill give it a try this afternoon

One point when the centre bearings were replaced an advisory was renew front prop as there was slight play in it.

I have been under the car and wobbled the front prop and there is slight movement.

Could this be enough to effect the drive and cause the wobble ?