Freelander Faults poll

tilermark said:

Td4 HSE 2006

faults i have had

Power issues on accelerating, yellow engine light came on briefly till i lifted off accelerator . turns out to be fuel pump- the one under the rear arch. Simple fix cost £190 Landrover part.

Rear window mechs cable snapped, Ebay kit fixed at £15 fiddley fix but easy enough

sunroof leak, turn out that the rubber lip around glass was letting water into frame, rotted away so new glass part needed. £184 landrover part easy fix.

bonnet cable snapped, it snapped at bonnet front end, silly quotes to fix as bonnet down. 10 seconds with a pair of scissors and bonnet was up! cable simply taped to old one and pulled through, easy fix took 1 hour tops. £19 for cable landrover part.

rear speaker stopped working, water was getting onto terminals causing corrosion, made drip shield and put above speakers, easy fix no cost.

now the steering rack bolts have snapped, will update with details as it happens

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Useful info there.

Thought I'd better add an update.

1999 L Series 3dr 50th:
VCU bearings at 90k
HGF at 150k
Turbo ran amok at 160k - fixed with turbo kit and help from a mate who happens to fix boat turbos
Engine exploded at 170k

2001 V6 ES 5dr:
Rattley VIS valves - replaced intake manifold with a Rover 75 one - updated firmware
Split coolant hose leading to Cracked coolant header tank, Leaking radiator, Leaking heater matrix, Overheating. Local garage recommended (and did) head gasket replacement - turned out to be an airlock
3 amigos - Offside front ABS sensor - 'replaced' by local garage, replaced again by local indi - worked second time
Missing cam breather pipe - blaming local garage
Various missfiring issues - replaced leads, all coil packs and 2 injectors
Leaking oil - replaced front rocker gasket
VCU and bearings at 120k
Misaligned blower ducts - suspect actuator - bought but yet to fix
Dodgey tailgate handle - sticking actuator - stripped and lubed, now all good!
Dodgey starting - suspect starter terminals - fixed
Soggy boot - suspect tailgate window seal (pinched at the end) - covered with a strip of insulating tape - now ok!
Sunroof rusted shut - probably won't fix
Nearside rear window not opening - suspect regulator - yet to fix

Eventually (after much encouragement from members) learned to do work myself, cheaper and not as hard as I thought.

Here we go: All window regulators, sunroof runners both sides, all speakers replaced, intermittent brake light fault (2 amigos) brake switch, viscous replaced 55000, turbo pipes regularly need replacing, rear diff mounts regularly need replacing, and it may come under wear and tear but the fuel tank cradle rusting away and not really fit for purpose (cheap nasty quality), crankcase breather filter requires replacing every year but replaced with BMW upgraded filter, and finally' I hope? powerfold mirrors don't last very long and cost a fortune to replace.

I had a 54 reg Tdi. It had numerous faults. Worse car owned in over 50 years of motoring. Have had all types of LR as well, but this was worse by a mile. Back window, back door, engine kept switching off inspite of going back to main dealer several times. It had only done 50k miles since new and was immaculate bodily condition very comfortable to sit in whilst waiting for recovery or repair.
Engine switching off on fast lane of M25 was final straw. I wanted to put a match to it, but was talked out of it by sensible wife.

My son has a 52 reg 1.8 petrol. This has had numerous faults mainly with transmission. Today the transfer box seized. Engine tried to rotate and broke the engine mounting bolts. Great experience as he had his 2 young daughters on board at the time.

Warning to all our experience shows these are c**p vehicles. If you are thinking of buying one then don't

my fault is still undiagnosed

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1998 1.8 5 Door 50th

Sorted probs - tailgate regulator replaced, reverse light switch replaced, clutch pedal was very hard to operate, rear diff mounts replaced, intermittent wiper problem (LZ fix), both handbrake cables replaced.

To do - Sun roof jammed -closed and fuse pulled, aircon not working, needs n/s passenger door lock solenoid, HDC yellow light is on (first gear switch maybe) oh and I need to find some conductive glue for the hrw terminals that dropped off.

5 7 Reg KV6. Bought from a dealer in July with 45k recorded miles and now has covered 47k. The one previous owner to myself was Conrico, who are a Jaguar Land Rover dealer and who sold it at auction to the dealer I bought it from.
Faults so far:
Leaking water pump. I had this and the cam belts replaced.
A new Jatco box has had to be fitted.
Failed balance VIS motor (fixed thanks to Stocktake).
Failed VCU rear support bearing.
The power VIS valves are making a noticeable noise.
Coolant header tank has numerous very fine cracks around the filler neck.
Oil leak from rear cam cover.
It is using coolant at the moment, and I am working towards sorting this out.
Apart from the above (and the fact that it has spent a lot of time with various repairers) it has been a great few months...
In fact I now have a severe misfire after having had the car converted to LPG, but this problem is down to the LPG system supplier whose ECU has failed.

2006 TD4, rear window motor busted, 2 Glow plugs replaced.

Other than that the car has 50 k miles( Bought it from my dad at 40k). It has been running flawless.

Ene said:

2006 TD4, rear window motor busted, 2 spark plugs replaced.

Other than that the car has 50 k miles( Bought it from my dad at 40k). It has been running flawless.

Click to expand...

Really?

sijwhite said:

Really?

Click to expand...

Glow plug, sorry

2/1/2014
ird
heater rez
one brake calliper
front strut top bearing

Revs drop to almost stalling at traffic lights or junctions, go on say it, serves me right for buying the 1.8 petrol but in my defence i didn't know Much about them until after id bought it and it did have a new engine last year

Having trouble starting, 2001 TD4. Turns over for ages before it catches. It does not smoke and it runs nice and smooth on start up. The glow plug light on the dash comes on but dosent seem to make a difference to starting.
Where to start looking first?

1998 Freelander 2.0l Diesel . 138,000 miles . Owned for six years .

Both front window mechanisms broken - cable snapped . As yet unfixed .
Sunroof leaks .
Back window regulator doesn't work properly .
Propshaft removed because of VC problems.
Master/slave cylinder needs replacing.
Three amigos :doh: Not sure what that is yet . Don't think it's the HDC switch or brake light switch though . Maybe a sensor .

Anyway the MOT and tax are due so i'm going to have to fix some of this . So that's master/slave to do , four new tyres , brake pipes , ABS fault , tax , MOT fee , insurance

Going to cost a few quid and i'm wondering if it's worth it .

Saying that though , what else would i buy ? Oh . She starts first time , every time .

-vcu is a weak point
-windows fittings / mechanism is flimsy and unreliable
-thermostat is also playing a bit since this engine is built in such manner that it generates in excess heat in comparison to the basic M47 powerhouse
-probably there are more things to it which are problematic but this list was off the top of my head it is evident there are many weak points but nevertheless I love mine as it serves me well so far

2 x window cables.
IRD blown due to seal failure.

VCU Fault.
Burnt out exh valves
Snapped exh manifold
Drivers door lock mech x2
Window mech N/S
This list is just illustrative and not exhaustive of the faults on a FL. But I love it
So will continue to fix and improve.

I currently have 2x Td4's the elder of which had a Map sensor which was blocked with 150k's worth of crud so it would stall intermittently and give a lumpy tick over.
The other Td4 has a sticky turbo boost valve which generally sticks when warm onthe steepest part of the home-run hill.

My TD4 3 door freelander 02 plate has a damp patch in the lowest part of the tool boot. How ever hard I try I can't get rid of it totally. :-/