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Freelander Faults poll

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Northern Irelander, Mar 14, 2008.

?

What faults have you encountered on your FL1

This poll will close on Jul 31, 2035 at 9:57 AM.
  1. Petrol engine problems

    17.9%
  2. 2L L-series engine problems

    4.4%
  3. Td4 engine problems

    24.6%
  4. Transmission, VCU, IRD, Diff problems

    34.9%
  5. Electrical problems

    30.6%
  6. Body fittings, Window mechanism problems etc

    40.0%
  7. Suspension problems

    7.8%
  8. Steering problems

    5.9%
  9. Brake problems

    17.5%
  10. Misc/Other problems

    23.0%
Multiple votes are allowed.
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  1. Heavy Breather

    Heavy Breather Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Bolton boy living in salford
    Clutch slave cylinder AGAIN!!! Just replaced it for the second time in 125k, thought i'd better do the clutch at same time (still on original) AND the bracket on the rear back box has corroded so needs a replacement, again its the original. I don't think thats to bad but its all come at once :-(
     
  2. ryanft58

    ryanft58 New Member

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    rougthy idle and has a problem with starting every now and again
     
  3. NeilTD4

    NeilTD4 Active Member

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    Location:
    Warwickshire
    Just had tailgate window regulator and wiper linkage rods replaced. Fuel filter sprang a leak on route to Devon shortly after I'd bought the FL. Power fold mirrors have become intermittent&#8230;

    Still enjoy driving it tho'

    Forgot, the A/C doesn't work either!
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2012
  4. wozza64

    wozza64 Member

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    Location:
    telford
    drivers door doesnt unlock with remote.
     
  5. crockett007

    crockett007 Active Member

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    Location:
    West Berks
    Hi wozza

    That's quite a common fault, I have a new drivers door solenoid in a box waiting to be installed :(
     
  6. Landlover99

    Landlover99 Active Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Extreme North West
    '98 model; 64k miles.
    Starts fine hot; starts fine cold; won't start at all warm. Bump starts, tho'!
    Overheated on me once quite seriously for no apparent reason; hasn't done since
    Funny rattling noises from underneath (might be exhaust baffles)
    Clunking noises from dif.
    All dash warning lights sometimes come on together then go out again.
    Driver's side electric window went &quot;ping clang&quot; and hasn't worked since
    Idle speed stuck at 1700rpm. Starter motor solenoid wire came loose (common problem, I gather).
    Transfer box failed (700 quid to replace).
    Apart from the above, and the fact that you never know if you're going to get home, it's been fine.
     
  7. 201964

    201964 New Member

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    Rubber Drive coupling gone, fixed myself.
    Rear brake lights stopped working, had to wire into high level light to get working.
    Air conditioning has never worked, clutch clicks in and full of gas but maybe clutch worn or compressor done.
    Now alarm and interior light flashes saying door is open but I don't know why!
     
  8. dontyajustluvem

    dontyajustluvem New Member

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    Location:
    Derbyshire
    Up to now after only 6 weeks of ownership ive had ,
    1 IRD (under warranty),
    2 VCU (under warranty),
    3 3 amigos ( 2 abs sensors),
    4 The whooshing air noise when the turbo kicks in ( not yet fixed).
    5 EGR cleaned and bypassed
    Looks like ive brought a pup !!
    Td4 03 REG 90,000 miles
     
  9. Hippo

    Hippo Lord Hippo

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    Make sure the vcu is from a propper supplier and not a "loose" vcu. You could try the "one wheel up test" to confirm your vcu works.
     
  10. Smithsmaville

    Smithsmaville New Member

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    Hi I have a 2000 td4 sport which I have owned for 8 years it had 98k on it when I bought it and it now has 133k so as you can see its not had a hard life in the time I have owned it. Problems I have encountered during this time are

    back left brake cylinder failing twice

    the tailgate window mechanism failing bought a new pattern one one off ebay lasted around 14months before having to be replaced again.

    three amigos lighting up replaced nearside abs sensor with a £14.00 one off ebay and worked a treat after being quoted stupid prices from land rover specialist to do the job. Make sure you know if yours is a male or female conector before ordering. (lesson learned the hard way) its not that bad a job its just takes a bit of time and effort.

    Camshaft sensor twice
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2012
  11. DD3

    DD3 New Member

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    Location:
    Surrey
    Not a great start to Freelander ownership (adventure) but if its any consolation, at least you know that this work has been done. I would upgrade mine for a later used one but I know whats been done to mine in nearly five years of ownership, so reluctant to change for something I dont know. I suppose this view depends on whether you intend to keep long term or view as part hobby as I do.
     
  12. FREEL4NDY

    FREEL4NDY New Member

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    Location:
    Marple,Cheshie
    Agreed.... I would say you definately need a medium to high, mechanical/electrical technical know how to keep one on the road, fault free to be considered an affordable/practicle vehicle. Othewise much home work is required before purchasing.
    Oh bugger what's that fluid running down my drive!!!
     
  13. MikeFLander

    MikeFLander New Member

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    Freelander 1 problems : 1.8 K series petrol, coming up for 70k miles 01 plate.
    Timing belt snapped at 31,500 miles
    Dreaded head gasket naturally !
    Heater matrix blew
    Thermostat stuck open
    Clutch disintegrated
    Front calipers seized
    Clutch master/slave cylinder system twice.
    Ariel bracket fell off
    Both Front windows and rear passenger wires snapped .
    Brake light pedal sensor failed, cause of HDC, TC and ABS lights staying on in my case
    VCU now starting to play up in process of changing it and both props .
    All the above failed prematurely except, for maybe the VCU !
     
  14. EuanMonymusk

    EuanMonymusk New Member

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    Just bought a Freelander TD4 and beginning to panic looking out for known faults
     
  15. Bromsgrove Defender

    Bromsgrove Defender Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Out to lunch
    Chillax you'd be the unluckiest person on the planet if your Freebie had all them faults. ;)

    An even if it did here's where you'll get the best advice on what to do about it :D :D :D



















    It's not a bank holiday yet is it ?? :flame2:
     
  16. Dalmeida

    Dalmeida New Member

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    Location:
    Angola & Namibia
    Control panel flashes and switches off after certain rpm and comes back to live again while driving over 120 Km. (This problem has stopped as silently as it came).

    At first the tailgate wouldn´t open at all. After 2 months the tail gate started opening by itself, specially while driving (have to lock all doors to avoid any accidents).

    Yesterday the the control panel light just stopped working (I hope is just a fuse or the light just burned out).
     
  17. revvy

    revvy New Member

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    freelander xedi 2.0 99

    120,000 ~ first the ignition switch engine would cut out everytime I indicated

    125,000 ~ then cam belt and new fan belt kit fitted only just got it driven to a garage before I damaged the engine wish I'd taken a picture of the cam belt pulleys and the few dregs of bearings left

    AA refitted a nylock bolt on the road on the gear stick linkage because I was mixing a cake instead of changing gear middle of saaf london

    backbox replaced seems to be a bigger than the last as it now knocks over bumps.. anyone have any idea about some heat resistant padding I can stick to the back box to stop the knocking on the chassis

    ..and all brakes replaced and cleaned

    handbrake re cabled.

    135,000 - AA fitted another fan belt and new tensioner because the old tensioner that was never replaced in the cam belt repair seized up and melted the ripped the belt.. luckily was 20 meters away from a petrol station in east london

    now just the IRD or could it be gearbox or maybe just the cv joint.. and she'll be a bomb proof all new l series with hopefully another 150 to go :D hehe

    heres a tip.. if you hear a misfiring on idle, try just buying those diesel injector fluids and your problem is gone.. quikest and cheapest thing to try first.. The engine would actually cut out very briefly at high speeds.. keep using injector fluid if your driving 1000's miles monthly..
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2012
  18. jlo2011

    jlo2011 New Member

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    2000 DL series freelander.
    just have it a month now.
    snapped fan belt
    rear passenger door not opening
    suspect prop bearings noisy
    or IRD.
     
  19. Pion

    Pion Member

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    Location:
    Gloucester UK
    98 Freelander 2.0 L series XEDi

    Oil leak from Oil Filter... replaced filter
    Cam Belt tensioner broke up needed a new Cam belt kit
    Clutch... needed new one
    Radiator top hose leak... replaced
    Drivers Window winder... replaced
    Drivers door catch needs replacing won`t unlock via key fob (21-1-13 Just started to open) (weird)
    Passenger Door catch O/S won`t unlock via key fob
    ABS TC and hill descent lights staying on
    Heater Fan stopped working.... loose wire
    Gear Box tie bar bush warn... replaced
    O/S track rod end... replaced
    O/S Front Brake pads stuck and worn... replaced front
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  20. pilsachpete

    pilsachpete New Member

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    Location:
    Pilsach, Neumarkt i.d. Opf. , Germany
    2000 Freelander 2.0 L series XEDi

    Now owned for exactly 1 year....

    At -20°c after driving for 20 mins, would suddenly go into crawl home mode with nice plumes of white smoke to block out anyone wishing to overtake .

    Recently would start and then cut out 2 seconds later. Did it 20 times in a row. Always started, sounded good and then cut out after 2 seconds.
    Next day, outside the garage that had towed it away for me but could'nt diagnose a pre_OBD2, just started up ok so I drove it home. Still don't know what was wrong, will buy a scanner when I find out which ones will scan with older Freelanders

    3 diesel return hoses split

    Clutch master gave up the ghost.

    Leaky steering pump also noisy when minus temp outdoors.

    Windows always steaming up (what the bloody hell is it with these things?)

    Clunky diff if too sharp on the clutch.

    Clunky rear subframe - usual dodgy bolt at one corner- will get round to it once the weather perks up here in Bavari (end of May probably)

    Rear passenger door not unlocking with fob or dash switch

    TC and HDC permanently glaring at me.

    Water in my boot tool box area wotsit.

    Takes a good 10 seconds to start at -10°c with three good glow plugs

    loses 200ml of water every 1000km

    Radio/clock digits start to dissapear when heater heats up the dash area.

    nocks and loose bumpy noises at front when driving over rough ground

    Understeer is bad in snow when going on sharp corners:crazy_driver:

    Try getting the back door open when its frozen outside! (Glass frozen to seals)

    Still enjoy getting about in it though!:D
     
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