Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 - No Power to Sunroof

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Hey,

GrumpyGel - ill wait for someone to second it but im happy to do it if its okay to do so

Swalker - so ive pulled the fuse started the engine waited 3 mins and then plugged back in - No change unfortunately
 
GrumpyGel said:
To get a true reading you would have to put the multi meter on the red connector and a known good earth
Click to expand...

I know nothing about the freelander but what’s been stated makes perfect sense to my knowledge of electrical troubleshooting.

Fuse removed Black to a good earth and probe away. Done it many times to trace where the power is/isn’t. Working forward or backwards as required.

Good luck

J
 
marjon said:
I know nothing about the freelander but what’s been stated makes perfect sense to my knowledge of electrical troubleshooting.

Fuse removed Black to a good earth and probe away. Done it many times to trace where the power is/isn’t. Working forward or backwards as required.

Good luck

J
Click to expand...
Cheers.

Probably the best place to start is to put the multi meter across the power feed to the roof panel control module and a good earth - that will say if power is getting to the module. Its the 'VBATT' 'pin' on the wiring diagram. If power is not getting there, then work back, eg test at the fuse.

Of course the VBATT pin will be in a connector block, I don't know if you'll be able to get the multi meter 'prong' onto the feed with the connector pressed into the module, hopefully you can.

F2_SunRoofOpeningPanelWiring.jpg
 
@GrumpyGel
I hate trying to read electrical diagrams. But if I read that correctly.

If the little light in the switch works, then the earth is good for the control module ,except maybe 1 connector (don’t know where that is)

Cos as you said earlier without earth “no go”

I am a little undecided as I don’t know what the “Fet Bunroof” thing? (Bottom left of your diagram is it the MOSFET) but this also seems to come through another fuse FE41 not sure if that’s been checked/mentioned, or even makes a difference to the problem at hand.

I will leave you guys too it now good luck:)

J
 
hey,

not sure if i understand the diagram but looked at f41 and was working fine

should i be following the red wire out the fuse box back to the battery at this point

i waiting on a car fuse tester as my tester isn't up to the task
 
@j.rails.411
Fuse FS10 powers the sunroof module and motor. If FS10 fuse has no power on it then this is your problem.

It sounds like you have measured the voltage across the two little sockets which the legs of the fuse plug into. This is wrong. Only one of them will be live but the other is not a connection you can measure a voltage against, as its not a reference to give a measurement of potential difference.

Measure power to the fuse by putting one meter lead on the fuse, normally the red. The other lead on a known earth, black lead.

It doesn't matter if the leads are crossed over. You will just get a negative reading. The value (or magnitude of said measured voltage) is the important bit.

If you're unsure about measuring voltages then measure the battery voltage itself to check the meter.

Unpainted metal parts of the car are normally good earth's for the black lead. There are a number of bits of metal under the dash by the fuse box. Metal screwed to metal. They may be good earth's. They are on mine.
 
Measure the resistance between passenger foot well FS7, FS27, FS14, FS10, FS9, FS11 and FS7. They are all connected together at one end, to engine bay FE18. You can leave the fuses fitted when measuring. Connect to any bit of metal on one fuse and measure resistance to another.

You should find FS10 is not connected but all others are. If that is the case... and they are also connected to engine bay fuse FE18.... the yer got an open circuit to fuse FS10 in the fuse box.

When measuring resistance use the ohms option an look for a low resistance of zero or very close.
 
Hey

so fuse tester has arrived tested all those in question ( FS7, FS27, FS14, FS9, FS11) all working with the exception of FS10

So am i correct in saying i need to chase FS10 back to FE18 to check for any shorts or disconnection?
 
@j.rails.411
If your meter has a resistance test option then measure the resistance between passenger foot well FS7, FS27, FS14, FS10, FS9, FS11 and FS7.

Do this by putting one probe on the metal of one fuse when fitted. T'other probe on another fuse. See if the resistance is low. It should be.

Do this with the ignition oft. If yer not sure if yer meter is measuring a low resistance then put the probes together to measure only the resistance in the leads.

It would be interesting to see if all of the fuses are connected together. They should be. The resistance test above will confirm this. FS10 won't be connected, as there is no power to it as you can't measure power on it.

Fault finding like this needs to be done in logical steps. Without being there to help we need to guide you through this in steps before we jump in and take it all apart.

The above test is to prove the fuse box connections. In this case multiple fuses connected to the same power rail which is fed by FE18. It looks like the connection from FE18 to the passenger fuse box power rail is ok, because the wet wipe works. The fault looks to be between FS10 and the internal power rail within the passenger fuse box. Testing the resistance as above will help confirm this.
 
Last edited:
Hippo said:
@j.rails.411
If your meter has a resistance test option then measure the resistance between passenger foot well FS7, FS27, FS14, FS10, FS9, FS11 and FS7.

Do this by putting one probe on the metal of one fuse when fitted. T'other probe on another fuse. See if the resistance is low. It should be.

Do this with the ignition oft. If yer not sure if yer meter is measuring a low resistance then put the probes together to measure only the resistance in the leads.

It would be interesting to see if all of the fuses are connected together. They should be. The resistance test above will confirm this. FS10 won't be connected, as there is no power to it as you can't measure power on it.

Fault finding like this needs to be done in logical steps. Without being there to help we need to guide you through this in steps before we jump in and take it all apart.

The above test is to prove the fuse box connections. In this case multiple fuses connected to the same power rail which is fed by FE18. It looks like the connection from FE18 to the passenger fuse box power rail is ok, because the wet wipe works. The fault looks to be between FS10 and the internal power rail within the passenger fuse box. Testing the resistance as above will help confirm this.
Click to expand...
It could be FS10, but my money is on it being past there.
 
GrumpyGel said:
It could be FS10, but my money is on it being past there.
Click to expand...
Why would fuse FS10 be at fault? It hasn't blown and measures ok, assuming what we have been told is correct.

He can't measure volts on FS10 itself (with respect to a earth return) or the terminals it plugs into (with respect to a good earth return) when it's removed. Hence at the moment there is no power going into FS10's socket. This is why I keep asking him to measure between fuses to see if the power rail is connected.
 
Hippo said:
Why would fuse FS10 be at fault? It hasn't blown and measures ok, assuming what we have been told is correct.

He can't measure volts on FS10 itself (with respect to a earth return) or the terminals it plugs into (with respect to a good earth return) when it's removed. Hence at the moment there is no power going into FS10's socket. This is why I keep asking him to measure between fuses to see if the power rail is connected.
Click to expand...
Clarification. I don't think the fault is before or at FS10 - my money is on it being passed there.

Which is why I suggested the starting point to check should be at the point of delivery of power, ie the roof panel module, then work back.

I know I could be wrong, just my hunch.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Clarification. I don't think the fault is before or at FS10 - my money is on it being passed there.

Which is why I suggested the starting point to check should be at the point of delivery of power, ie the roof panel module, then work back.

I know I could be wrong, just my hunch.
Click to expand...
There's a continuous metal path from battery to fuse FS10 via fuse FE18. FS10 has no power on it. I can't see how power to FS10 can be turned off?
 
Hippo said:
There's a continuous metal path from battery to fuse FS10 via fuse FE18. FS10 has no power on it. I can't see how power to FS10 can be turned off?
Click to expand...
If you look at it like that, there is a continuous metal path to the roof panel module.

Which is why I'm suggesting the end of that path should be tested first.

My hunch is that that path is intact all the way to the module and it is the module which is at fault.

However, as we have seen many times, that metal path can be broken, which is why my hunch could easily be wrong.

The original diagnosis that there was no power at FS10 was made using a wrong method of diagnosis, so we don't have any indication that power is not getting to FS10.
 
Eye asked him to test FS10 again with the second probe on an earth. Eye though he had done that.

Oi @j.rails.411
Can you confirm again if there is power on FS10 with the ignition on?

One probe on the metal of FS10 and the other on a metal earth.

If there is no power on FS10 then keep testing other fuses in the same way until you measure power on one of them, to prove yer method of measuring is correct.

Q1. Did you measure power on FS10?
Q2. Could you measure power on any fuse?
 
@j.rails.411
If yer fuses don't have any metal you can put a probe on when they're fitted, on top of them, then you will need to test for power with the fuse removed.

To do this put one probe in one side of the fuse socket. Other on a good earth, and measure the voltage.

Then move the socket probe to the other side of the same socket and measure again. Only one side of the fuse socket will have power on it when the fuse is removed.
 
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