Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 - No Power to Sunroof

Hey, I have a 2007 Freelander 2

The sunroof has stopped working (closed position)- Not after battery failure or grinding - there is simply no power to the unit

Im looking for wiring or diagrams. any information where the sunroof wires track back down to the fuse or power source

Any help on were to go from here would be amazing

cheers

Look in the passenger foot well fuse box. Remove the plastic cover to get to the fuses. Over the years they changed the fuse box and fuse numbering so yer best to check the inside of the fuse box cover for the location and current rating of the sunroof fuse. I think it will be 15amp location F10. First thing to do is check if it's fitted and not blown. If good then check if there's power to it.

Hey, Cheers for this tested the fuse all okay

tested the power in the fuse box and these no power to the fuse,

so im assuming the fault is between the fuse box and power supply?

There may only be power to the fuse when the sunroof button is pressed. I dun't have the circuit with me at the moment to look.

I should think that the button is not connected to the sunroof. It'll be connected to the computer chips. The computer chips won't want to burn themselves out by putting a few KW through a sunroof motor, so I'd think they energise a relay. So could be a relay that's got a bit lazy.

GrumpyGel said:

I should think that the button is not connected to the sunroof. It'll be connected to the computer chips. The computer chips won't want to burn themselves out by putting a few KW through a sunroof motor, so I'd think they energise a relay. So could be a relay that's got a bit lazy.

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True. The switch will signal the computer to power an output. Probably a relay but we're looking for power on the fuse at the moment as it's easier than getting to the motor.

Hippo said:

True. The switch will signal the computer to power an output. Probably a relay but we're looking for power on the fuse at the moment as it's easier than getting to the motor.

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If the relay isn't energised, there won't be any power going through the circuit.

GrumpyGel said:

If the relay isn't energised, there won't be any power going through the circuit.

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The power feed may step down through other fuses anorl. He should hear a click as the relay comes on. But it's early days. He needs to confirm from the fuse cover he's on the right fuse first.

Tested the fuse when the switch was pressed still no reading of power from the fuse

Not sure the next step forward - were does that fuse pick up power from?

Evidently there is a recalibration routine that may need doing...

1. Switch the ignition on.
2. Press the front of the sunroof switch, and hold for twenty seconds.
3. After twenty seconds the sunroof will begin to move. Keep the front of the switch pressed until the sunroof has fully opened, then closed.
4. Once the open/close cycle has completed and the sunroof has stopped moving, release the switch.
The sunroof can now be operated as normal.

I tried this befor i started on the forum

this is what led me to check the power to the unit

as there is no power to the unit is there a way of bringing in an external souse to test the motor

The calibration process will only make a change if the car lost power when the sun roof was open.

I have had a look at mine just now and my sun roof is powered by fuse FS47 20amp in the passenger foot well. Mine is a MY15 model year 2015 which has the later wiring so different to your 2007. I believe your sun roof fuse will be powered by FS10 15amp in the passenger foot well fuse box. My FS47 sun roof fuse has power on it only when the start button is pressed to put the electrics on only, or when the engine is running. So I'm assuming if you slide the key into your 2007 and put the electrics on only, or start the engine then your FS10 should be powered. If not then this needs further investigation.

I wouldn't try to force power directly onto the motor just yet. I would be keen to find out why power to fuse FS10 has disappeared.

The circuit diagram has FET-SUNROOF in it which makes me thing it has a Field Effect Transistor (MOSFET) driving the power control. Doesn't look like there's a relay involved. Hence the MOSFET instead. The power from FS10 powers the sun roof computer which houses or is part of the sun roof motor. The motor is located at the rear of the fixed glass panel, in line with the C pillar.

If FS10 has no power on it then the sun roof computer has no power. The sun roof computer receives other signals from the sun roof switch to advice what you want it to do, like open or close said sun roof.

FS10 in the passenger foot well is powered from fuse FE18 60amp in the engine bay fuse box. I would suggest you check there is power on that next as it's easy to do. On the passenger side of a RHD right hand drive car there's a fuse box by the wing panel. The same FE18 supplies power to a number of other things like the front washer jets. So if they work then FE18 has power on it. But it would be good if you could check this and if FS10 on the passenger fuse box cover is for the sun roof.

Hi,

Just checked power from Fe 18 there is power and FS 10 is for the sun roof

so there is power to the passenger side fuse box but not to fs10 specifically as all other elements from the fuse box are working

It does appear to be a fault between FE18 and FS10, but how are you testing for power to FS10?

just using a multi meter into the fuse

j.rails.411 said:

just using a multi meter into the fuse

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How are you using the multi meter on the fuse?

i had the same problem when i got mine fuse good sunroof dead - i did read somewhere that the fuse had to be removed for x amount of minutes - this is what got me back up and running.
still haven't calibrated it yet though - might try pulling the fuse when its open to calibrate lol. really cant remember the time wasn't more than 5 minutes something tells me it was either 1 or 3?!?!?

Hey

GrumpyGel - Red into the top connector black into bottom Meter set for 12v - tested whilst pressing and holding buttons and without (all engine running)

Swalker - Could give it a go not seen that in any of the forum postings befor (so run the engine - pull the fuse - wait 3 min - then test? )

j.rails.411 said:

Hey

GrumpyGel - Red into the top connector black into bottom Meter set for 12v - tested whilst pressing and holding buttons and without (all engine running)

Swalker - Could give it a go not seen that in any of the forum postings befor (so run the engine - pull the fuse - wait 3 min - then test? )

Click to expand...

I may be wrong, and others can concur or tell me I'm an idiot, but if the Roof Panel Control Module isn't drawing any current (and therefore no way to an earth), the multi meter would show no current. So the fault could be fore F10 (ie the module wants power but isn't getting it) or after F10 (ie the power is there, just not being used).

To get a true reading you would have to put the multi meter on the red connector and a known good earth - once again - don't do that before someone else say's its OK cos I don't know if its right and whether it would fry your fuse box.

thats bugging me - cant find it again myself - a quick google i got this "Had this happen in my rover too. All you do is....with the power off, key out of ignition...pull the 15 amp fuse for the sunroof out for a few seconds...then reinstall it...make sure it is not blown 1st....then start the rover and the sunroof should work fine.. this resets the module." pretty sure it was a minute or more though - try the 3 and see