For fooks sake its 2 steps forward and 3 back!

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fett

Well-Known Member
Posts
8,637
Location
South Hampshire
for fooks sake its 2 steps forward and 3 back!

I had fianlly cavity waked as much as I had wax for and polished out 95% of my laning sacrtaches and then vaced, flushed vaced and recharged my a/c after changeing that £130 a/c pipe then on the way home form my mates after al the work it started coughing and spluttering like it was hunting but very fast and whilst under load- fine at idle, made it home- just but now I aint got a freakin clue what it is!! for fooks sake!!! :doh:

Just spoke to Guru Stuart and he reckons that I should first swap out and tune up another AFM and also look at fuel pump, there goes my stress free bank holiday weekend! arghhhh!!

Lucky I have a spare of both- dont know how good they are mind you!!!!

For those of you that dont know its a 1990 3.9 RRC auto BTW

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get the plugs out first and check them, dont go down the road i did last year, checking and changing everything, assuming the new plugs that had only done a few hundred miles were ok, even change them, and check the rotor arm is a genuine one mate
 
Plugs were new about 500 mils ago but it seems its more like an entire bank than just on cyliner and I cant imagine 4 would go out at the same time, definatly a genuine cap rotor and leads as I have the boxes with LR on them lol.

Why God Why!!!!!!!
 
Well my sapre AFM is in and tuned up but I will have to wait 1/2 an hour for the ecu to reset with the battery disconnected and see if its any better , shame I dont know how good the ecu is , if that doesnt work I will try the fule pump and then si's plugs as I can just see me stripping and plug thread the way things are going! :doh:
 
Ok so 8 hours under the fooker today , with test drives after each component change.
AFM
Coil
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
remove plugs,all cleaner than I have ever seen them!!!!
remove dizzy amp, which is a cnut of a job!! then replace with another dizzy amp only to find it was U/S and have to put the original back-fooks sake!!
Disconnect battery before each job.
Disconnect stepper- drives alot better without it conected but the problem is still there and un-affected.

So much for my day off what a cnut, it is now parked on the Gravel Of shame!
 
BTW just to clarify the problem, it runs good at idle and drives well but then it will start to Kangeroo, if you back off the throttle you can normally smooth it out but it might take two goes. and its not that often it does it , I drove for over a mile before it did it on 3 of my 5 test drives today. it normally seems to do it after you slow down for a bend or junction and then go back on the throttle.

Any ideas as I am stumped!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I filled her up yesterday about 10 miles before all this started-bad batch of shell unleaded???????? wouldnt it do it all the time if that was the case?
 
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I had similar most of last year with the Classic. So much so it sat most of the year and only covered 300 miles! Changed everything including the ignition amplifier, plugs, coil, cap, etc etc and then noticed the alternator output was low - 12.2 to 12.6V. Changed it twice and just the same. Cleaned all the body earth lead connections and it worked, 14V out the alternator, smoothed out the running and the starter spins over like it's got no load. The connections can be tight but they will be corroded. A bit of emerey and bingo. Try that.
 
I have done the earth by the coil clamp already this year , is there any others for the engine on the RRC?
 
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Trace the earth from the battery negative. Should go to the body then on to a bracket on the chassis leg then on to the engine block. I re-tapped the block, filed the inner head of the bolt and took a flat file to the lug connectors on the leads after emereying the body holes where they connect up. You wouldn't go wrong putting on another couple of bonding straps too whether they be the braided stuff or an old jump lead chopped up. As long as the engine block is earthed to the body and battery you will get a good connection.

As a matter of interest is your temp guage reading high at all? This one was until I sorted out the earths and in turn reduced the resistance. Does the engine turn over quickly or slow and labouring?
 
Nah temp guage is normal and she spins over nice, I will change my newish plugs out tomorrow and if that doesnt fix it I will go for so earth fiddling
 
I was surprised - easy job, big difference (can actually use the car now without worrying about Kangarooing up to a junction, stalling and needing a jump start). Let's know how you get on.
 
I wondered that, got a very full tank of fuel at the mo , as I discoverd when changing the pump, I dont really want to try and drain it :doh:
 
Ok so today I had a shorter day on it ,
I swapped out the plugs form ngk to champion- no difference

I check all the earths were connected and then doubled up by running a jump lead from the negative terminal on the battery to the exhaust manifold(it was the best thing to get the clamp to stay on whilst test driving)-no differnce :doh:

Checked all vac hoses were connected and clear-they were!

It only seems to have the problem once warmed up and even then its intermittant.

I have tried all I can with the kit I have got so I am going to have to call in the expert- Stuart and pray he can fit me in the first half of this week.

I am thinking its either the amp as my spare was U/S so I couldnt check it and they are affected by the heat.

Or the the temp sensors for the ecu. the coolant one was replaced with a genuine landrover part just after Christmas so I am thinking maybe the fuel one?
 
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Ok so today I had a shorter day on it ,
I swapped out the plugs form ngk to champion- no difference

I check all the earths were connected and then doubled up by running a jump lead from the negative terminal on the battery to the exhaust manifold(it was the best thing to get the clamp to stay on whilst test driving)-no differnce :doh:

Checked all vac hoses were connected and clear-they were!

It only seems to have the problem once warmed up and even then its intermittant.

I have tried all I can with the kit I have got so I am going to have to call in the expert- Stuart and pray he can fit me in the first half of this week.

I am thinking its either the amp as my spare was U/S so I couldnt check it and they are affected by the heat.

Or the the temp sensors for the ecu. the coolant one was replaced with a genuine landrover part just after Christmas so I am thinking maybe the fuel one?

Judging by what you say i would think changing the ECU temp sensor could have great benifits.
 
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