flushing the cooling system

zoolander said:

Thanks for the photos SV appears my bog standard 2005 TD4 don't have the bleed point here.

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That's very strange as I would have thought they were the same.

I wonder why?

By the way is the underside of your T-Bolt clamp wearing a hole in the flexi tubing?

SV.

Yes, thank you for the photos, My TD4 is slightly different as well. Maybe because its 2001 built. It defo hasnt got a 2nd bleed screw of that nature.
On the plus side I have bled the one bleed screw each day now since I was last on and I think the heater is back to normal. I will know better when I drive my normal journey back to work tomorrow. Will llet you guys know.
Thanks
Nick.

Could the 2nd bleed screw be in a different place? Just wondering...

latest update:
drove to work and back today, about 14 miles each way. Tested the heater on full after the temp gauge had reached its normal reading position. The windscreen vent was just about luke warm when I got to work. I tested the side vents and footwell on the way back and they were constantly coolish for some reason. I guess that means there must be air in the system so I will continue to bleed from the cap I can see and at the w'kend will have a go at removing the small pipe from the expansion tank and let the coolant flow out while topping it up. Unless anyone has any other ideas (apart from dont do your own maintenance!!!!)
Thanks
Nick.

yes

Singvogel said:

Ear Yugo - sorry, Here you go.

Apologies for the delay in getting the pics.

This is for the folks who couldn't find the 2nd bleed-screw on a TD4's M47R engine.

As said - it's on the cooler for the EGR exhaust feed-pipe.

Singvogel.

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this is my td4 2001 gs cant find 2nd either lol must be under at rear

magpiepolish said:

this is my td4 2001 gs cant find 2nd either lol must be under at rear

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lol that was yrs heres mine after flushed with 40psi inc water in and outlets bit more bleeding and im very happy thanks to this forum so much!!

magpiepolish said:

lol that was yrs heres mine

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The 2nd bleed screw shown is on the exhaust gas cooler. Only the TD4 auto has the exhaust cooler. So only the auto has the second bleed screw. The manual TD4 has a much simpler cooling system. The auto box has an extra cooler, so requires a second bleed screw.

cheers as cdnt work it out lol, going flush system tomorrow and pray heater works after going take temp of matrix hose pipes with infared meter in morning then flush thru after and buy the red/ pink antifreeze, whats mixture i should do with distilled water? isnt boiled water ok too?

magpiepolish said:

cheers as cdnt work it out lol, going flush system tomorrow and pray heater works after going take temp of matrix hose pipes with infared meter in morning then flush thru after and buy the red/ pink antifreeze, whats mixture i should do with distilled water? isnt boiled water ok too?

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50% mix of OAT coolant concentrate and 50% distilled water. Tap water is ok of your water is soft. If you live in a hard water area, avoid using it. If you have a condenser tumble dryer. The water that fills the dryer tank is distilled
Otherwise distilled water is cheap at most motor factors.

Nodge68 said:

50% mix of OAT coolant concentrate and 50% distilled water. Tap water is ok of your water is soft. If you live in a hard water area, avoid using it. If you have a condenser tumble dryer. The water that fills the dryer tank is distilled
Otherwise distilled water is cheap at most motor factors.

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all dorted all flushed system used 40psi inc water jetted thru innand out matrix now so happy £5 infared temp monitor works gr8

notowbar said:

Yes, thank you for the photos, My TD4 is slightly different as well. Maybe because its 2001 built. It defo hasnt got a 2nd bleed screw of that nature.
On the plus side I have bled the one bleed screw each day now since I was last on and I think the heater is back to normal. I will know better when I drive my normal journey back to work tomorrow. Will llet you guys know.
Thanks
Nick.

Click to expand...

mines a march 2001 just private plate

Singvogel said:

Wrongee - there are 2 bleed screws on an M47R - the less obvious one is on the cooling jacket on the exhaust ducting to the EGR if you liik from the battery side you can see it under the edge of the engine cover - the same type of screw that's on the heater pipe.

Singvogel.

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Just for the record (for people like me finding this thread years later) this is apparently only true of the auomatic model, the manual just has the heater hose bleed screw.

AndiRoo said:

Just for the record (for people like me finding this thread years later) this is apparently only true of the auomatic model, the manual just has the heater hose bleed screw.

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Which I said on post "28" on February 24 2017.

Nodge68 said:

The 2nd bleed screw shown is on the exhaust gas cooler. Only the TD4 auto has the exhaust cooler. So only the auto has the second bleed screw. The manual TD4 has a much simpler cooling system. The auto box has an extra cooler, so requires a second bleed screw.

Click to expand...

Any suggestions on the coolant type?
Just about to to put a in line thermostat so it makes sense to change fluid
Thanks

Dar ran Dar ran said:

Any suggestions on the coolant type?

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OAT with a 50% mix with soft or distilled water.