Disco 3 (LR3) Flickering light problem

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I'm being thick here I know but what is the point of these led bulbs?

one of the main reasons is to dramatically reduce the power taken from the battery

these D3s are very power hungry , with the engine off they can drain a battery like there’s no tommorow
 
Yes it will reduce the overal power drain on your vehicle.
Also led’s should outlast standard bulbs by a few thousand hours.
I don't have a d3 mines a d2 but I read the threads obviously and the power thing seems to cause a lot of problems,so I suppose anything that helps preserve it is a good idea.Youd think the system design would be a lot better in this day and age
 
Yes it will reduce the overal power drain on your vehicle.
Also led’s should outlast standard bulbs by a few thousand hours.


Sadly just about all aftermarket led bulbs go dull after a couple of years, gradually at first so you dont notice and as usual the problem with all leds is heat dissipation ie it cant dump the heat so gets hot and shags the led bulb.
I dont think the mot thing comes in for a couple more months yet.

Im just going to chuck mine in and see what happens if it fails who cares? change bulbs and move on.
 
Yes that’s a very good point. My interior ones will probably not be that great after a couple of years.
Hoping to get more out of the external bulbs. Indictaror, fog, reverse lights etc as they were bloody expensive.
 
Another daft point ,i assume from all I've read that there's no uprated alternator or everyone would use it or is it not that simple? Would the whole system need recalibration?I think I'd be tempted to carry around a dry camping battery or something to get me out the poop if it the normal one went flat
 
Another daft point ,i assume from all I've read that there's no uprated alternator or everyone would use it or is it not that simple? Would the whole system need recalibration?I think I'd be tempted to carry around a dry camping battery or something to get me out the poop if it the normal one went flat

Std alternator is 150amp, I think the std fix is to fit a split charge set up. in my case that wont work as my daily commute is 5 miles each way and it struggles to put back what I took out starting it, so imagine how it would feel being asked to charge two batteries?
The alt is controlled by the engine ecu I think, if you google smart alternators theres some interesting stuff out there.
 
Std alternator is 150amp, I think the std fix is to fit a split charge set up. in my case that wont work as my daily commute is 5 miles each way and it struggles to put back what I took out starting it, so imagine how it would feel being asked to charge two batteries?
The alt is controlled by the engine ecu I think, if you google smart alternators theres some interesting stuff out there.
It doesn't apply to me as mine is a d2 but am interested to see if there's a solution.See what you mean about dual charging being a problem if you don't run very far.Must be a strain for it to keep charged at all .Bet a clever beggar will solve it sooner or later.Just beats me why they didn't sort it at design stage.Prob cost £5 a vehicle more to do
 
It doesn't apply to me as mine is a d2 but am interested to see if there's a solution.See what you mean about dual charging being a problem if you don't run very far.Must be a strain for it to keep charged at all .Bet a clever beggar will solve it sooner or later.Just beats me why they didn't sort it at design stage.Prob cost £5 a vehicle more to do

this is what i did , apologises it’s a D3 again, lol

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/split-charge.324504/
 
Std alternator is 150amp, I think the std fix is to fit a split charge set up. in my case that wont work as my daily commute is 5 miles each way and it struggles to put back what I took out starting it, so imagine how it would feel being asked to charge two batteries?
The alt is controlled by the engine ecu I think, if you google smart alternators theres some interesting stuff out there.
I use mine on average 3 miles a day and this time of year has heaters, wipers and lights on more often than not and I’ve not had any issues with the battery running low, maybe you have a drain issue ?
 
I use mine on average 3 miles a day and this time of year has heaters, wipers and lights on more often than not and I’ve not had any issues with the battery running low, maybe you have a drain issue ?

hi mate

may i ask , out of curiosity, how long would u be able to leave urs standing before the battery went flat plse


thks
 
hi mate

may i ask , out of curiosity, how long would u be able to leave urs standing before the battery went flat plse


thks
If you mean switched off then it’s been left for approx 4-5 weeks whilst I was working away and started straight away.
It had a new battery on when I bought it 15 month ago, but not a fancy named one, it was just from eBay at £90.
 
If you mean switched off then it’s been left for approx 4-5 weeks whilst I was working away and started straight away.
It had a new battery on when I bought it 15 month ago, but not a fancy named one, it was just from eBay at £90.

hi

many thks

i got the exide , if i leave mine switched off it won’t last any longer than just under 3 x weeks

but i’m convinced ive got a residual drain that i must resolve

wouldn’t buy an exide again , always had Varta
 
I use mine on average 3 miles a day and this time of year has heaters, wipers and lights on more often than not and I’ve not had any issues with the battery running low, maybe you have a drain issue ?


I have no idea but the battery is going down after 15 months of the short trips and the alternator pretty much runs maxxed out at 15.1 volts all the time trying its hardest to charge battery back up, I also run the block heater for 30 mins in the morning which obviously doesnt help.
Basically I think I have deep cycled the poor thing to many times.

Any sort of decent trip sees the voltage come back down to 13.7 ish volts.

This time its getting an 019 battery as Im not totally convinced the 017te is up to the task.
 
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