Flat below 2500rpm - a fresh thread

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A

Ancly

New Member
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13
Location
Barnet North London / South Hertfordshire
Hi All,

2002 FL1 TD4 54k used for short trips for a few years.

I bought the above a few days ago on mileage and body condition. It is spotless outside and very good inside....BUT..it has done the school run and not much else for a few years.

I suspected it needed a good service as it was a bit sluggish. once on the motorway it was fine and got me home in time for the pub.

Now I have been reading the forum for the last few days and gleaned a lot of info from old posts, but an a bit confused over one issue.

The FL is slow to take off but fine when it reaches 2750rpm. It goes to 90mph with no problem [allegedly]

I have read the posts about the MAF sensor so tried it disconnected, pulls well from 1200rpm, foot down and engine rattles and pulls away...as it should.

Cleaned the MAF sensor and refitted...no change, slow pull aways with little response to a floored accelerator. No rattle just a slooow increase in speed.

Bought a new Bosch unit, fitted and still no change. Read reports of it needing to 'bed in and the ECU to catch up' so drove for 50 miles mixed motorway and local roads. No change. Still flat.

SO..my question.....if it is another component at fault, WHY does it run fine with the MAF disconnected?

I realise I have a long way to go to diagnose this fault but how does it behave OK with the MAF disconnected if it is not a MAF problem?

I have an EGR removal kit and a PCV upgrade on order and I will clean the inlet path as best I can at the same time.

Also, unrelated....the tailgate window regulator was repaired in 2010. I ran it up and down about three times and it fell to the floor! Now propped up with a bit of wood and the repair kit ordered from ebay. Are these any good?

Thanks

Andy
 
with the MAF disconnected .. the ecu runs a default map .. and a.f.a.i.k. makes the lower rpm range overfuel somewhat .. hence more immediate torque response at lower rpm .. ( evidently .. not tried it myself )

wait 'till you have the EGR delete fitted and the pcv upgrade done as well ..
IF all's well .. you should notice a difference to initial go-pedal response ..

used for short trips for a few years.
Click to expand...
intake manifold .. and other bits .. probably all gunked up if it's never been run-up-to-operating-temps much ..
diesels generaly benefit by being 'worked' once in a while ..
 
Last edited:
Window kit with stainless inner cables. Outer cables with liners, New pulleys and guides are good ones. Shop around don't just buy the cheapest.
 
So, PCV upgrade, EGR delete, manifold soaked and cleaned, soaked and cleaned etc, and it drives exactly the same!

The EGR had not moved in a while and was totally gunked up, and the filter in the PCV was black and solid, so at least I am making worthwhile changes even if I'm not fixing the problem.

90 degree hose was wet with oil and the cause of the oil between the battery and the sump, it must have been spraying it out for ages.

I take it my next step is to check the turbo solenoid is moving? Was raining all day here so didnt want to lie on my back and check it...was wet enough bent into the engine compartment!

Any other thoughts? All the plugs on the sensors that I came across seemed clean and sound.

Cheers

Andy
 
So, the turbo solenoid.....
When I rev the engine it does NOT move the actuator arm, when I try to move it manually, engine off, the arm moves 6 or 7 mm.

When I remove the pipe from the oval vacuum chamber and suck on the pipe, it does not hold vacuum. When I remove the end from the solenoid and blank it, pressure holds, so the pipe is ok!

Would someone confirm that this points to the turbo solenoid please? or are there other tests I should do first?

Cheers

Andy
 
have you checked the condition of the turbo solenoid vent filter ?
if the pcv valve filter was solid with gunk .. good chance the turbo vent filter has never been changed ..
if that filter is clogged up .. i don't think that the turbo vacuum solenoid will work properly somehow ..
if the filter is missing .. chance be that dirt has entered the turbo solenoid and seized it up

this thread be about the turbo solenoid:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html

~~~~~~~~

90 degree hose was wet with oil and the cause of the oil between the battery and the sump, it must have been spraying it out for ages.
Click to expand...
you might want to check those intercooler hoses for leaks .. they often split ..
in particular .. where one top hose is very near to a mounting screw for the plastic air intake ducting ..
be a good idea all in all to replace those hoses with silicone ones .. be kits online ..

if those hoses do leak .. there be a loss of turbo pressure .. and subsequently a loss of power ..
usually includes some black smoke from the exhaust a.f.a.i.k.
and .. a Small amount of oil present inside those hoses be normal
 
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Hi hd3

Just delivered the freelander from London to Lincoln and once on the motorway it was fine. No smoke, no problems...apart from low power low down.

The vent filter is fine, a little dirty but clear and disconnected at one end.

Intercooler hoses look fine, but I don't think I have any boost to lose through any gaps!

Pretty sure I should not be able to suck air through the pipe from the reservoir, as then there's nothing for the valve to pass to the turbo?!?

Can anyone confirm whether there should be a vacuum held when sucking on the pipe from the valve?

Any other ways I can test this?

Andy
 
The tube that I 'tested' was the one from the back of the vacuum reservoir that goes under the air filter housing down to the turbo solenoid. I could suck air through it with the engine off. Didn't think to try with the engine running and the vehicle is 120 miles away at the moment!

I have ordered a solenoid from 4x4 as they were the cheapest without buying a second hand one from ebay. They don't do technical advice though, they just sell bits! I rang a couple of dealers to be told that they do not give advice over the phone, must book it in! In the old days you'd ring the dealer, ask for the service dept and ask the question, normally got a helpful mechanic who would talk you through the problem!

Also got a spare oil filter and a tow rope [just incase lol] to get over £50 for free postage.

I feel a busy weekend coming on!
 
I have noticed mine is a little sluggish till about 2500rpm. The MAF is about 4 years old and only done about 30k so I don't think it is that. Had a look at the turbo actuator arm but could only move it a few mil it seems quite heavily sprung so I have ordered a solenoid so hope that will do the trick.
 
This was the same, well, more than a little sluggish, and as I had just bought it and had no real experience of the freelander, I read posts and tried the MAF first, so the fix cost three times what it should, but I have a new MAF and still spent less than a garage would have charged. I will put the old MAF back in when I have finished fixing all the other broken bits and see whether I wasted £120. If I did I will have a working spare!

My better half reported after a 120 mile trip that it drives 'much better' so brownie points for me!

Hope it works for you. Easiest way is car on ramps and slide right underneath. I couldn't reach it properly from any other angle.
 
hd3 said:
with the MAF disconnected .. the ecu runs a default map .. and a.f.a.i.k. makes the lower rpm range overfuel somewhat .. hence more immediate torque response at lower rpm .. ( evidently .. not tried it myself )

wait 'till you have the EGR delete fitted and the pcv upgrade done as well ..
IF all's well .. you should notice a difference to initial go-pedal response ..


intake manifold .. and other bits .. probably all gunked up if it's never been run-up-to-operating-temps much ..
diesels generaly benefit by being 'worked' once in a while ..
Click to expand...

Ancly said:
Turbo solenoid did the trick! Now drives much better,

Thanks for the assistance!

Andy
Click to expand...
Hi there , during all this did the engine management light come on ? Thinking of renewing my boost solenoid , as its slow from a start up a hill , but seems fine at speed ! No fault codes or management light showing .
 
Hi I too have just purchased an 04 td4 100k with full set of main dealer service stamp car immaculate.
i thought the low end lack of power was just me not used to 4wd but after reading threads on here i tried disconnecting the maf. wow what a difference
slight tinkle/clatter but loads of go. so i purchased a replacement element from ebay (direct replacement £27) fitted it great.... engine quieter and pulled like a train, for next 250 miles then same problem.
so i bit the bullet and got an OE Bosch unit £131 from motor factors. (also fitted new air filter as old one very dirty)
fitted it.... no change. i have seen mention of the ecu learning the new maf signal but am sceptical.
is it likely the new maf faulty. i accept the ebay unit failing as you get what you pay for but expected the bosch unit to make a difference.
or am i looking in the wrong place?

any advice appreciated.

(this is my first post so please correct me if Ive posted in the wrong place.
should i have started a new thread?)

thanks
 
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