Flashing f4 and yellow decent light on

Hippo said:

I have copied yer results into the list below (taken from the text under the video ont you tube) as it's easier for us to see which sensors/solenoids are reading good/bad when listed against the names and tolerances.

Black = hippo wrote
Blue = hippo concerns and request to measure
Red = Shuan4456 measured results

May I ask the make and model of meter yer bought? Also is there a battery warning symbol on the display. If so then resistance measurements can be a bit out if the battery is going flat.

It looks like you still have a fault on the same solenoid you replaced. I assume you had the 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve replaced as per the diagnostic screen from yer earlier post?

I'm wondering if the correct solenoid was replaced. There's two with similar names:
2 - 4 brake and 2-4 timing.
I can't remember if they're physically the same. The resistance of the coil will measure a different value. Yer never know if the diagnostic machine has the right text against the fault code picked up unless tested. The results show a short (low resistance near zero) across the measured wires which shouldn't be there.

Can you measure the solenoid you took out? Measure between the tab the electrical wire connects too, and the metal case of the solenoid. What is the resistance?


Method 1: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 1 - 2 = 524 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 3 - 4 = missing pins = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
The intermediate sensor was missing from later model Freelander's as it wasn't needed and thought to be a popular fail on a certain batch of gearboxes.

Pin 5 - 6 = 530 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 7 - 8 = no reading = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
Strange. Yer should be reading from the list below depending ont temperature of the auto and fluid inside:
-40 degrees C = 54900 ohms
-20 degrees C = 16700 ohms
00 degrees C = 6020 ohms
20 degrees C = 2500 ohms
40 degrees C = 1160 ohms
60 degrees C = 590 ohms
80 degrees C = 330 ohms
100 degrees C = 190 ohms
140 degrees C = 80 ohms

Method 1: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 18 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 9 - 18 = 15.8 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 10 - 18 = no reading = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
No reading on the above but the same item reads ok from the computer connector below which proves the wiring is ok through the barrel connector. Hopefully this isn't a problem. If it were you wouldn't be able to change from 3rd to 4th gear.

Pin 11 - 18 = 15.7 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 12 - 18 = 15.7 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 13 - 18 = 0.18 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
This is a concern. Can you measure the following:
Pin 13 to gearbox case
Pin 18 to gearbox case (just curious but this should be ok as it's a common and the others are ok)
Pin 13 to pin 17 (a loop though two solenoids)

Pin 14 - 18 = 16.6 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 18 = 3.5 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Sometimes this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 16 - 18 = 3.6 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Sometimes this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 17 - 18 = 13 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)



Method 2: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 5 - 20 = no reading = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
This was ok in the above test
Pin 21 - 20 = no reading = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
We think this is missing and will be ok
Pin 24 - 20 = no reading = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Worked ok in the above test
Pin 39 - 20 = no reading = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
As said above yer should read something

Method 2: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 17 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 3 - 17 = 3.9 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
As said above this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 4 - 17 = 1 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
This is a concern. Can you measure:
Pin 4 to gearbox case
Pin 17 to gearbox case
Pin 4 to pin 16 (a loop though two solenoids)

Pin 10 - 17 = 16.5 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 14 - 17 = 16.6 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 17 = 16.4 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 16 - 17 = 13.3 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)
Pin 17 - 18 = 4.1 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
As said above this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 52 - 17 = 16.4 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 53 - 17 = 16 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)

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Hippo said:

Yer auto has a number of sensors to take measurements and 3 solenoid valves it switches on and oft in a pattern in order to control the flow of auto fluid to the different clutch packs. This makes the clutches slip or not slip, which allows drive power to flow through the different gear set options. That's kind if how it controls gear changes.

Yer has a problem on the 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Its value is near zero which is a short circuit. The fault is either the solenoid coil failed short circuit or more likely a trapped or snagged wire ont metalwork. The metal is at ground potential (same as 0volt on the negative battery terminal) so any voltage applied to control the solenoid is killed as it's shorted out.

There's only one way to measure the temperature sensor. By resistance. It's a temperature dependent resister which does as per it's name. To get to it yer need to take the auto gearbox oft the engine. They rarely fail. For some strange reason yours measures a high resistance which is better known as open circuit. Open as in there is a break in the loop. This could be the sensor itself or more likely the wires to it.

The yellow lamp on the dash. When does it come on? When yer press the revs but only when in D or R? Wot about reving in N... does it come on? Yer may also have a pedal switch fault.

Does the dash display and the led's by the gear lever always read correct position of the gear lever?

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Shaun4456 said:

But to put in gear now feels really stiff

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Nodge68 said:

The gear selection is done with a cable. So was anything done that can affect the cable? I've come across 1 where the lever on the gearbox was dragging on the under tray, causing stiffness of the gear lever.

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Shaun4456 said:

Skid plate not been on car in weeks

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Nodge68 said:

It could be the cable has got wet and corroded. The under try does help keep the cable protected from road spray and impact damage.

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Shaun4456 said:

Just took cable of
Its free
No problems

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Shaun4456 said:

Just worried it's causing damage if stiff

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Nodge68 said:

That's weird.
The lever on box operates the selector switch and the park pawl. It shouldn't be that stiff, unless park is released while the vehicle is on a hill, when it can come out of park with a bang.

It sounds like some further investigations are done, as you don't want it causing damage .

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Shaun4456 said:

Thanks every one for help.
Found problem in end
I had worn wire rubbed in engine so shorted out.

Thanks again

Without your info and help I be still stuck

I so owe use a drink

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