Freelander 2 (LR2) FL2 Amber engine light

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Bruce2020

Bruce2020

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Worthing
Evening all,

I filled up my wife’s 59 plate FL2 yesterday afternoon with Diesel as usual. This morning the amber engine light was on and has stayed on.
I mentioned the fuel as I’ve heard that the filler cap can cause this issue if not secured. I have undone and retightened but it’s hard know if it worked as I don’t know how to reset the light. Do I need the Gizmo?or is there one of strange procedures involving open 2 of the doors whilst standing on one leg singing and pulling the right hand indicator down….?

or if anyone knows of any other possibilities please let me know

cheers in advance
 
If the engine light is lit - the car's computer (ECU) has picked up a fault. You can get a code/description of the fault with a dirt cheap "ODB2" dongle from a car parts shop (or eBay etc). It will use bluetooth to an app on your phone to display and clear the fault code.

The fault will likely come back - but you'll know what it is. If you can identify what to do, great, if not then there's people here who can help.

Often the first time you read the codes there can be lots of historic codes come back and you don't know which is the relevant one. So you can clear them and then read the codes again once the light comes back on.
 
GrumpyGel said:
If the engine light is lit - the car's computer (ECU) has picked up a fault. You can get a code/description of the fault with a dirt cheap "ODB2" dongle from a car parts shop (or eBay etc). It will use bluetooth to an app on your phone to display and clear the fault code.

The fault will likely come back - but you'll know what it is. If you can identify what to do, great, if not then there's people here who can help.

Often the first time you read the codes there can be lots of historic codes come back and you don't know which is the relevant one. So you can clear them and then read the codes again once the light comes back on.
Click to expand...
Nice one
Just looked on eBay, didn’t realise you could get cheap Bluetooth readers.
I’ll grab one and give it a whirl
Cheers
 
Bruce2020 said:
Nice one
Just looked on eBay, didn’t realise you could get cheap Bluetooth readers.
I’ll grab one and give it a whirl
Cheers
Click to expand...

I'd not simply clear codes, as this isn't recommended in modern vehicles. Clearing codes removes any diagnostic history, which is actually helpful in identifying pending issues.
You need to be using a code reader that is able to display the chronograph data as to when the codes were generated.

I believe the Torque app (used with a BT dongle and an android device) will give you the date a code was generated, which will help pinpoint the issue.

Does the LCD give a message after it's done it's system check?
Are you allowing the system check to complete, before pressing the clutch or brake?
 
Nodge68 said:
I'd not simply clear codes, as this isn't recommended in modern vehicles. Clearing codes removes any diagnostic history, which is actually helpful in identifying pending issues.
You need to be using a code reader that is able to display the chronograph data as to when the codes were generated.

I believe the Torque app (used with a BT dongle and an android device) will give you the date a code was generated, which will help pinpoint the issue.

Does the LCD give a message after it's done it's system check?
Are you allowing the system check to complete, before pressing the clutch or brake?
Click to expand...
Yes it stays on after all lights have settled before clutch is depressed so no worries there.
I’ll have a look at the torque app
Cheers
 
GrumpyGel said:
If the engine light is lit - the car's computer (ECU) has picked up a fault. You can get a code/description of the fault with a dirt cheap "ODB2" dongle from a car parts shop (or eBay etc). It will use bluetooth to an app on your phone to display and clear the fault code.

The fault will likely come back - but you'll know what it is. If you can identify what to do, great, if not then there's people here who can help.

Often the first time you read the codes there can be lots of historic codes come back and you don't know which is the relevant one. So you can clear them and then read the codes again once the light comes back on.
Click to expand...

I picked up a Bluetooth OBD2 from EBay and it works no problem. It identified the fault as Mass Air Sensor so I ordered another good quality OEM sensor and slotted in it. I took the FL2 for a short drive but unfortunately the problem is still there. Basically it’s on or around the 2000rpm point it starts to splutter a bit and needs more juice to get it going.
I plugged in ODB2 just to be sure and it read clear so I’m a bit lost
I’ve ordered another air filter which should be here tomorrow too.
Any thoughts welcome
Cheers
 
Sometimes a misbehaving throttle body will give MAF errors, as the air flow through it is reduced by the throttle butterfly sticking partially closed.
 
Nodge68 said:
Sometimes a misbehaving throttle body will give MAF errors, as the air flow through it is reduced by the throttle butterfly sticking partially closed.
Click to expand...
I’ve just cleaned the oxygen sensor with sensor contact cleaner but no change so thanks for the suggestion.
Would you recommend removing and giving it a good clean to see if that does it first? How do you know if needs replacing?
 
Nodge68 said:
Cleaning normally isn't needed, but remove it to check it's ok. ;)

You remove the side cover, and look at the gearbox. The gears are known to strip, which is obvious once the cover is off. ;)
Click to expand...
Cheers, that’s the next job then.
Hopefully that’s the culprit. ive read it’s a common fault on these but if your gizmo says MAF you think MAF.
is it relatively easy to remove before I head off to YouTube?
 
Bruce2020 said:
Cheers, that’s the next job then.
Hopefully that’s the culprit. ive read it’s a common fault on these but if your gizmo says MAF you think MAF.
is it relatively easy to remove before I head off to YouTube?
Click to expand...

If you have the JLR SDD software, there is a test and calibration routine which actually tests the whole air path, including the MAF, MAP, throttle body and boost control. However unless you have access to SDD, it's back to good old fashioned experience and investigation.

The throttle body comes off easily, but some are fitted with 5 point Torx screws, and some aren't. Also don't drop the nuts that hold the EGR pipe to the throttle body, as they can dissappear down inside the boost pipes, which then end up in the cylinders (don't ask how I know) so just be careful with them.
 
investigation work it is then but thanks for the info
Whilst fiddling about under the bonnet I’d heard that the turbo hose can split on these FL2s easily so I thought I’d check that before I went any further and surprise surprise there was split which Im reckoning is the cause of all this.
I’m a complete novice with diagnostic work I’m more used to my discovery 1 so this has definitely been a learning experience for me
Anyway I’ve ordered the replacement hose and hopefully that should be and end to it all, fingers crossed
Thanks for all your advice
Nodge68 said:
If you have the JLR SDD software, there is a test and calibration routine which actually tests the whole air path, including the MAF, MAP, throttle body and boost control. However unless you have access to SDD, it's back to good old fashioned experience and investigation.

The throttle body comes off easily, but some are fitted with 5 point Torx screws, and some aren't. Also don't drop the nuts that hold the EGR pipe to the throttle body, as they can dissappear down inside the boost pipes, which then end up in the cylinders (don't ask how I know) so just be careful with them.
Click to expand...
 
Bruce2020 said:
Whilst fiddling about under the bonnet I’d heard that the turbo hose can split on these FL2s easily so I thought I’d check that before I went any further and surprise surprise there was split which Im reckoning is the cause of all this.
Click to expand...

It will be the issue, and was part of the old fashioned experience comment in the previous post. I guess it's the short boost pipe below the throttle body?
If so then it being split will give the exact same symptoms as the failure in the TB gears. ;)
A
 
Last edited:
:) exactly that mate.
yes, short boost pipe below throttle body.
A cheaper fix too which is always good
Thanks again

Nodge68 said:
It will be issue, and was part of the old fashioned experience comment in the previous post. I guess it's the short boost pipe below the throttle body?
If so then it being split will give the exact same symptoms as the failure in the TB gears. ;)
A
Click to expand...
 
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