Freelander 2 (LR2) [FIXED] LR2 Suspected Turbo Failure

Hi, similar'ish problem myself right now.

Did you get to the bottom of this? Got a solution?

Vinny73 said:

Hi, similar'ish problem myself right now.

Did you get to the bottom of this? Got a solution?

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Hi,

Nothing yet. I'm 100% certain it's a split hose or the intercooler but living in the city, I can't get access under the car easily.
I'm taking it to the garage tomorrow morning for them to diagnose and will let you know what I hear.
I'll be heading to the in-laws over the weekend who have some tractor ramps so I can install the replacement part needed which I'll buy before leaving.

One of the easier ones to inspect is the one connecting to the manifold


Another one would be to the right of the engine bay connecting to the intercooler.
The other ones you'll need to get under the car to see.

If you can get under the car, I suggest spraying some soapy water on the hoses to see if you get any bubbles when revving.

The one in the video, i've already changed, that was split. Don't buy or use a cheap amazon or ebay job, not a correct size and fitting and more hassle than worth, as its already a difficult / tight spot to work in.
After changing this hose, mine was all good for a few weeks, now get some hesitation and intermittent drop off/loss of power, then its ok. Like it wont rev beyond 2500-3000 revs, then goes.

The other 3 pipes are all undertray off and up on ramps, at least for me, not accessible otherwise. So i've got new hoses for this weekend's job, but concerned the turbo to intercooler x2 hoses are not the correct diameter.

Im also chaning the crank pulse sensor, as that is known to cause similar probs.

Vinny73 said:

The one in the video, i've already changed, that was split. Don't buy or use a cheap amazon or ebay job, not a correct size and fitting and more hassle than worth, as its already a difficult / tight spot to work in.
After changing this hose, mine was all good for a few weeks, now get some hesitation and intermittent drop off/loss of power, then its ok. Like it wont rev beyond 2500-3000 revs, then goes.

The other 3 pipes are all undertray off and up on ramps, at least for me, not accessible otherwise. So i've got new hoses for this weekend's job, but concerned the turbo to intercooler x2 hoses are not the correct diameter.

Im also chaning the crank pulse sensor, as that is known to cause similar probs.

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I took that one off mine and it appeared decent so put it back on.
Have you ran a scan on it yet? What codes is it throwing up?

You should be able to access the the hose going into the intercooler from above, at least to check for any obvious splits.
Just down from the air filter box.

I was close to buying all new hoses and even an intercooler and just being done with it but I want to avoid spending £200-£300 if I can, especially as there will likely be other problems that crop up demanding money.

You can access the one coming from the turbo output by taking off the driver's (UK) side wheel arch. Not as convenient as getting underneath but it's possible.

Next on my list is fixing the intermittent driver's door lock. When locked, it won't let me pull the handle to unlock from the inside. I have to hit the unlock button on the dash to get out most times but that's a problem for another thread!

HaggisMuncher said:

You can access the one coming from the turbo output by taking off the driver's (UK) side wheel arch. Not as convenient as getting underneath but it's possible.

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Removing the front bumper is by far the easiest way to get at the lower boost hose.

Vinny73 said:

now get some hesitation and intermittent drop off/loss of power, then its ok. Like it wont rev beyond 2500-3000 revs, then goes.

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A loss of power when the engine is hot can also be down to a non OE fuel filter, where the internal valve doesn't open, allowing hot fuel into the engine. This causes a drop in power, and doesn't give a code. So check the fuel filter has the name Purfux on the top, which is OE.

Thanks, will check that. We got the car at 42k miles, its just ticked over 70k, and the fuel filter not changed in my time. I'd be surprised if it was done 42k or less, but never know.

The fuel filter is a B service item, so should be changed at 30k miles or 2 yearly intervals, whichever comes first.

Hi all,
Quick update.
Took the car to another garage as the one I've used in the past were too busy.

They're claiming broken turbo and quoted £550 for a replacement... for a P0299 code.
I have a feeling they've not bothered resetting the code to inspect the fault as you can definitely hear air escaping from somewhere and the actuator is working with no other error codes.

I've had enough with dealing with this code so I'm going to buy all replacement hoses and just get all of them replaced.
Failing that, a new intercooler.

Further update. I don't know where to start...

Garage showed me the underside - he seems to think the turbo was recently replaced or at least reconditioned in the past (we've only had the car for about 3 months and this issue has been around almost as long) and that his guess is that the variable vanes are stuck - not sure how this would account for the air pressure difference between intake and manifold though.

He noted the oil on the turbo which, as Nodge pointed out a while back, likely came from the air intake joint that sits almost directly above the turbo.
I'm concerned why he's suggesting replacing the turbo if, by his own admission, the turbo looks new or at least cleaned up compared to the rest of the engine. I've seen horror stories of people forking out for a new turbo only to have the error reappear after the car gets a chance to recalibrate.

As above, I'm going to start throwing money at parts (albeit cheaper parts over the turbo) and just buy replacement hoses for all of the charged air hoses.
If that doesn't fix it, I'll try replacing the intercooler.
If that doesn't work, probably use the car as a paperweight or something.
I just cannot accept a new turbo is required for a P0299 or that one is required when a new one was only recently installed.

HaggisMuncher said:

I just cannot accept a new turbo is required for a P0299 or that one is required when a new one was only recently installed.

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A P0299 code is logged because air pressure at intake manifold is less than expected.
It is potentially possible for a turbo to cause this issue, but it's unlikely, especially if it looks to have been replaced already.

Maybe the previous owner had the same issue, and was told it was the turbo? When it didn't fix it, they sold it on so it was someone else's problem?

In this instance new turbo would be very unlikely to fix it, so there's no point in spending money on something which isn't a definite fix.

The turbo is obviously boosting, or there wouldn't be air available that you can hear escaping.

I'd start by doing the cheapest and oldest items first, which is going to be the 4 boost hoses from the turbo compressor outlet, right through to the intake manifold.
Only after all potential sources of leaks have been eliminated, do you even consider looking at the turbo.

Nodge68 said:

A P0299 code is logged because air pressure at intake manifold is less than expected.
It is potentially possible for a turbo to cause this issue, but it's unlikely, especially if it looks to have been replaced already.

Maybe the previous owner had the same issue, and was told it was the turbo? When it didn't fix it, they sold it on so it was someone else's problem?

In this instance new turbo would be very unlikely to fix it, so there's no point in spending money on something which isn't a definite fix.

The turbo is obviously boosting, or there wouldn't be air available that you can hear escaping.

I'd start by doing the cheapest and oldest items first, which is going to be the 4 boost hoses from the turbo compressor outlet, right through to the intake manifold.
Only after all potential sources of leaks have been eliminated, do you even consider looking at the turbo.

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Hi Nodge, good to see you still hanging around providing valuable insight! It's really appreciated in this time of need.

I believe this is what has happened, or worse yet, the dealership bought the car cheaply, tried to repair the turbo and sell it on.

Agreed on the turbo boosting, you can even feel it when accelerating and the mechanic said the same thing on his test drive.
When the codes are reset, it's like a rocket and I don't think a simple 2.2 litre with no turbo would produce the same kind of torque.

Considering replacement hoses and intercooler (if needed) would set me back a couple hundred quid, I think this would be the better option rather than, as you said, forking out on a new turbo that is unlikely to fix the problem. I'll put an order in for them now.
Do you know of a document that lists part numbers for these hoses? I've looked at the repair manual and can't seem to find specifics.

Thanks

The hose part numbers were a challenge! I had to buy turbo to intercooler from MTC (hoping they are correct as the diameter looks on smaller side and not a 90 degree turbo pipe.
Intercooler to throttle body/inlet are Britpart, bought from one of the 4x4 Landover sites I found on Google.

My turbo has always made a light sweet whistle sound.
Today again loss of power, intermittent but only once hot and running temp.

I couldn't hear that whistle at that time.

I ran the OBD a TopDon 500 but nothing in the codes, clear. I'm not sure if these topdons are much use, as after a firmware update, it still doesn't recognise the vehicle, but seems to read codes.

I'm changing the sensor now, or attempting to.

If that doesn't resolve it, then it's the hoses, bumper off. But looking at Beavis pits video, I don't have the tool to get the angled screw front of bumper passenger side, so against the clock now as Halfords closes in 2 hours or so.

Sounds like we got similar probs, but is it the same root cause!?

There's no special tools needed to remove the bumper. I use the contents of a standard ¼" socket set to remove the bumper.

The crank sensor is a 10 minute job, I've done it at the side of the road, twice.

Vinny73 said:

The hose part numbers were a challenge! I had to buy turbo to intercooler from MTC (hoping they are correct as the diameter looks on smaller side and not a 90 degree turbo pipe.
Intercooler to throttle body/inlet are Britpart, bought from one of the 4x4 Landover sites I found on Google.

My turbo has always made a light sweet whistle sound.
Today again loss of power, intermittent but only once hot and running temp.

I couldn't hear that whistle at that time.

I ran the OBD a TopDon 500 but nothing in the codes, clear. I'm not sure if these topdons are much use, as after a firmware update, it still doesn't recognise the vehicle, but seems to read codes.

I'm changing the sensor now, or attempting to.

If that doesn't resolve it, then it's the hoses, bumper off. But looking at Beavis pits video, I don't have the tool to get the angled screw front of bumper passenger side, so against the clock now as Halfords closes in 2 hours or so.

Sounds like we got similar probs, but is it the same root cause!?

Click to expand...

I've just ordered all the replacement hoses (I hope) to replace all of them. Moved out to Romania last year and sadly aren't many aftermarket retailers of LR parts so shipping from Poland. Wish I could buy from Britpart but the shipping alone is almost as much as the parts.

It's funny you should say the problem is intermittent. I drove to the in laws on Friday. The "reduced engine performance" message would come on but then after a few minutes would disappear. I'd have to pull over and come to a complete stop before the engine would give me full power again, though. I'm wondering what that could be.

The hose from the intercooler to throttle body barely has a bend to it. The 90 degree hose is for the first hose coming out of the output side of the turbo.

I think I can get most of mine replaced without needing to remove the bumper as thankfully the clips are rotated so they're easy to get to. Sadly, the output side of the intercooler will require the bumper to come off.

I can definitely hear some air hissing and I think it's coming from the hose going into the intercooler but it'll be hard to tell without getting the thing off which will likely be a job for next weekend at the in laws. Don't fancy pulling a bumper off in the middle of the city.

Quick clip of my engine sound, she does sound like she's gasping for air.

Hard to tell from your sound clip, it doesn't sound great but that's the sound clip itself I think.

I'm at a bit of a loss now. Spent all afternoon on it, and it's now running a bit worse I think.

I whipped off the cheap Amazon hose that I used for a quick repair. It had actually slipped a little, the clip wasn't holding it tight, so figured it may have just been that. So I swapped that hose again. The new britpart silicone one was so much easier to fit too. It's on tight tight now and fits better.

I then swapped the crank pulse sensor for the Facet one I picked up from GFS parts. Car wouldn't start, just turned over.

Then put the original back on, and it just seems a bit lumpier when revving it and still has some hesitancy on a test run. Revs will drop, then rise no problem, but seem to be a bit up and down like it's hunting for gears and struggling to rev then it isn't.

I changed the air filter too. Checked the sensor that's the one on the pipe from the air filter box, super clean looking.

I had a really good look and feel around the turbo hose, the hose to the intercooler and the main hose from the intercooled. Could see no issues nor feel any issues with it.

Now here's another kicker... A few years back, I had a really bad grinding metallic sound one morning. It sounded like metal clanging and in the exhaust or something. It got louder then heard like a graunching sound and it never did it again. Until the test run I just did, but much subtler, like a metal vibrating sound.
I did put a video up on YouTube of that, will link it here as it's definitely an interesting one that.

But I think we're in the same boat, only I'm not getting any warning lights or limp mode. And the OBD shows nothing.

Here's that sound, the the recording picked it up well and accurate. Was very odd, then just stopped -

Vinny73 said:

Here's that sound, the the recording picked it up well and accurate. Was very odd, then just stopped -

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It sounds like something rattling, or possibly some unintentional moving component rubbing something that's stationery.
It does sound exhaust like, so take a look at the heat shields, which have a habit of detaching from their fittings, the one above the rear box is particularly vulnerable to falling onto the rear box.

Nodge68 said:

It sounds like something rattling, or possibly some unintentional moving component rubbing something that's stationery.
It does sound exhaust like, so take a look at the heat shields, which have a habit of detaching from their fittings, the one above the rear box is particularly vulnerable to falling onto the rear box.

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Yeah, it certainly sounds external to the engine or any component. It sounded much worse than the vid when it was doing it, but the vid picked it up well. Not too worried about that.

Just to keep this updated.
I'm still waiting for all my replacement turbo hoses to arrive from Poland - not many sellers over here in Romania.

In the case that it's the turbo itself, I'm pricing up a replacement turbo, just in case and I'm seeing some in the £300 range from turbodiesel.cc - seems pretty cheap imo, just want to make sure it isn't too good to be true.
Anyone know how much of an effort it is in getting it off?

Getting to my wits end with this limp mode thing. It's really not good driving it like this but I'm left with no choice unless I wanna drop a ton of money on something that might not even fix it.

Will keep you all updated on what happens when I get to replacing the hoses.