Disco 1 Filler/glue/sh!t/designer compound required

Just so i dinna get tauld orf (@MJI ) agin......
On the inner wing of a (300TDi) Disco where the water exits the long trough under the windscreen, there is some form of weird hard cr@p that is supposed to get the (rain)water to clear the long top hat strengthener piece that runs the length of the inner wing. As usual on Land Rovers, it doesnt work! It doesnt help that LR, in their infinit wisdom have decide that it would be even more useless by having holes cut out along its length to ....a) allow all this water to enter the box section and b) allow the box section and adjoining inner wing to corrode like buggery with next to no protection.

Having had a minor (for me) rant, above, does anyone know what this hard cr@p actually is, or should be, before I start moulding araldite, or glueing tubing onto the side of the inner wing to allow this water to exit into the inner wing area (ideally below it) without causing any more damage.

Their sealer is crap.

You need to scrape it all off, and replace with a decent seam sealer, or even a urethane (NEVER use silicone on a car!).

You'll also find, right up the top, under the end of the scuttle cover, where all the panels are sandwiched together, the sealer will have split too.

Worse than that, right at the bottom corner of the windscreen, behind the rubber trim strip, there is a giant hole where the two halves of the pillar panels join down the front... the SAME **** sealer is supposed to fill that hole, but it's probably cracked too - that where the front foot well water comes from, especially if you have no sun-roofs.

So remove wing, remove scuttle ends, remove windscreen trims, scrape off all the **** sealer, treat rust, epoxy prime, seam seal, paint, possibly cavity wax and reassemble!

I generally use Wurth or 3M sealers etc.

The hole is directly behind that square tab and goes into a hollow section behind the dash, then leak down each pillar onto the floor. The panels sandwiched together lead to the same place - my Disco is basically rust-free (compared to UK cars!) except the floor rust, from these leaks and the rust *caused* by the crappy sealer.

Mine is water-tight after sealer all this.

Very useful info, but I was talking about the water trough between the bonnet and the windscreen.

I know my way around or the D1 bodywork of a D1 after 26 years of ownership plus another 10 years with RR which was similar, but haven’t a clue on what your talking about.

Perhaps a better description and photo’s of the area would assist better, other than “ there is some form of weird hard cr@p that is supposed to get the (rain)water to clear the long top hat“ hopefully will get u the solution your after.

discool said:

I know my way around or the D1 bodywork of a D1 after 26 years of ownership plus another 10 years with RR which was similar, but haven’t a clue on what your talking about.

Perhaps a better description and photo’s of the area would assist better, other than “ there is some form of weird hard cr@p that is supposed to get the (rain)water to clear the long top hat“ hopefully will get u the solution your after.

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I will, but it’s a tad wet here…. Flooded drive etc.

The Mad Hat Man said:

I will, but it’s a tad wet here…. Flooded drive etc.

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Roll on when the sun shines again then for all of us at the moment.
I dont know what it is called but maybe scuttle the trough each under the windscreen holds water untill it overflows via the 20p size hole at each end, I didnt’ think that was right so I place a 5mm tube each end to drain water into the engine bay and onto the road, it didn’t drain all, so still just wet but nothing like as wet as it was so the area could be laying in water for days thats until the disco was use again. but it works plud a spray of clear waxoyl in the area once a year works.

OOps...

You mean the stuff that used to be dribbling from this hole???

I used the same seam sealer I did for the other parts, and tidied up inside the trough too. Redid all these joins as the original sealer actually caused rust! Which was somewhat common in the 90's.
Then I put a bead on the top side of the top-hat part, to divert water off the side. You can also see an aluminium tape patch covering the top hole.
Once all the top sides were sealed, I painted it, including spraying some inside the voids. then covered everything up.

The seam sealer is a little more flexible and doesn't crack like the hard crap, or their crappy original sealer.

discool said:

I place a 5mm tube each end to drain water

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Water has enough surface tension to bridge a 5mm hole, so bigger holes are always better.

Crikey! That’s worse than mine….. just!
Yes that’s the bugger.

Yup. That’s the bastard thing… what a sh1t design .




I have copied your idea as I have roll of thin bitumen backed adhesive aluminium foil (gutter repair) tape here, and covered the holes.
Still would prefer to route the water away if I can tho.

Must admit - Africa has it's positive side and coating roads in salt is on that list as rust - besides top rear quarter glass - is a non event here on D1's

D1Nut said:

Must admit - Africa has it's positive side and coating roads in salt is on that list as rust - besides top rear quarter glass - is a non event here on D1's

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You might be surprised at what's hiding behind that sealer, even on yours. My Disco spent 6 years is Japan, then 20 here... it wasn't nice - the sealer causes the corrosion on these joins, not the salt. We probably get quite a lot more rain here in Northern NZ than you though ;-)