Faulty MAF?

Hi all,
I seem to ask more questions than I answer so sorry for that; I'm still an enthusiastic novice.
Anyway, my disco 2 TD5 was very sluggish. I had read about the MAF sensor and waste gate fixes and did both. I changed the MAF to a HAAS one from eurocarparts and freed up the waste gate. The waste gate seems fine now but when I drive with the MAF sensor connected I have issues with the power. It feels like it might stall and when the pedal is flattened the acceleration seems to top out between gears.
I've driven it with the MAF disconnected and no problems. Is it bad to drive with the MAF disconnected? And also are HASS parts normally defective?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks all....

Hi. When it comes to MAF especially if it's Eu3 engine any money spent on aftermarket sensor is wasted, buy the expensive genuine LR or better drive without it... this was said many times on this forum and others and demonstrated by those who bit the bullet and bought the genuine one.... driving with it unplugged slightly affects consumption, the engine is not at 100% of it's capacity and the EGT is a bit higher but better on the factory default than with some aftermarket which gives erratic readings.

Yes, I have also used an aftermarket one and even my nanocom showed perfect values I was not satisfied with the perfomance of my car. Finally I have decidied to order a genuine one and difference was surprising! No real difference in Nanocom values but the car drives much better.
A few days ago I talked with a retired Land Rover mechanic (also ex repair shop owner) and he also confirmed that in case of MAF only genuine the reliable one..