fault codes

'morning all,
Another cry for help from the Kent coast - this time would love advice on fault codes.

I have a wonderful magic machine which gives me fault codes. I thought I would try it out on one of the few dry days and yesterday was that day.

I have two fault codes:

• 3065 Fuel Pump Drive Open Load Logged
• 3141 Driver Demand has been faulty

Anyone have any ideas on what I need to be considering with these fault codes?

hi, i might be able to help if you tell me what engine it is, Td5 or V8, and what kind of "magic machine" are you speaking about...cos that's important

I was too lazy to run downstairs to get the name for the machine...but can now tell you it is a Lynx Diagnostic Interface and my LR is a TD5.

I loaded the diagnostic machine on my partners laptop and run it on my TD5 yesterday for the first time.

ok, if it's Lynx it's good enough

as long as the car runs those fault codea are 'hystorical' in the ECU memory, the first one means that at a time there was a bad contact/open circuit on the fuel pump relay circuit, the second is about a throttle position sensor missbehaviour ... erase them and read again in a few days as long as the car is running fine

Makes sense, I will report back in a couple of days. TY

Ok, had time to run around a bit, up hills, down dales...put the machine on it this morning and the two faults as above are shown. All ideas welcome as to what they could mean.

3065 Fuel Pump Drive Open Load Logged
3141 Driver Demand has been faulty

Can these machines erase the faults properly (I've no experience of ANY diagnostic machines, just asking questions). ?

Incidentally, I make faulty driver demands all the time (no wonder other people get out of my way...)

Good luck and keep us curious minds posted if you sort it.

Richarddiscoverytwo said:

Ok, had time to run around a bit, up hills, down dales...put the machine on it this morning and the two faults as above are shown. All ideas welcome as to what they could mean.

3065 Fuel Pump Drive Open Load Logged
3141 Driver Demand has been faulty

Click to expand...

Did you clear the codes before taking it out again?

Richarddiscoverytwo said:

Ok, had time to run around a bit, up hills, down dales...put the machine on it this morning and the two faults as above are shown. All ideas welcome as to what they could mean.

3065 Fuel Pump Drive Open Load Logged
3141 Driver Demand has been faulty

Click to expand...

they mean what they meant first time too:

sierrafery said:

as long as the car runs those fault codea are 'hystorical' in the ECU memory, the first one means that at a time there was a bad contact/open circuit on the fuel pump relay circuit, the second is about a throttle position sensor missbehaviour ... erase them and read again in a few days as long as the car is running fine

Click to expand...

did you make sure that they were erased? i mean did you read the ECU after you gave the erase command? ...maybe it didnt succede...with those codes being active you should have had driveabilitry issues

Definitely cleared fault codes before trying again (?)
And did this again today.
Reconnected and this time it read 'no fault codes present'
Took it for a run down the motorway, up and down some hills (hilly where I live), plugged tester in again and got fault code 3141 Driver Demand has been faulty.

It is mostly running well but very occasionally misses a beat which seems to be affecting the automatic gearbox and making it change down. But no fault codes for transmission.

that driver demand problem can affect the autobox aswell(* Throttle position invalid=Substitute throttle angle of 50% adopted. No kickdown. Operates in economy modes only.,)
... but being intermittent it didnt have time to log a fault in the autobox ECU... what you can try without costs is to unplug and give contact spray to the throttle position sensor(it's attached to the upper end of the accelerator pedal)...if the fault will come back i'm affraid you'll need a new one...or check the wiring untill the engine ECU...by the way check for oil there as if there is it can affect the CAN signals

Thank you for the quick response - that is very useful information.

Two questions 1) will WD40 do for contact spray or if this is not suitable, which spray would you advise? 2) do you know if the throttle position sensor is sold separately to the pedal or is it an integral part of the pedal?

Thanks again

Richarddiscoverytwo said:

Thank you for the quick response - that is very useful information.

Two questions 1) will WD40 do for contact spray or if this is not suitable, which spray would you advise? 2) do you know if the throttle position sensor is sold separately to the pedal or is it an integral part of the pedal?

Thanks again

Click to expand...

Don't go near it with WD40. Aeroclean is what I use

Datatek said:

Don't go near it with WD40. Aeroclean is what I use

Click to expand...

WD-40 makes a electric cleaner


https://www.google.com/search?q=pic...cal-Contact-Cleaner%2Fdp%2FB00AF0OFVU;300;300

Thor1950 said:

WD-40 makes a electric cleaner

https://www.google.com/search?q=pic...cal-Contact-Cleaner%2Fdp%2FB00AF0OFVU;300;300

Click to expand...

They may well do, but the OP didn't say WD40 electric cleaner. standard WD40 Water Dispersant will feck it.

use dedicated electric contact spray at your choice, IMO the best is this NANOPROTECH AUTO ELECTRIC 210ml IGNITION SEALER WATER REPELLANT CAR BIKE | eBay , the throttle sensor comes together with the pedal only

sierrafery said:

use dedicated electric contact spray at your choice, IMO the best is this NANOPROTECH AUTO ELECTRIC 210ml IGNITION SEALER WATER REPELLANT CAR BIKE | eBay , the throttle sensor comes together with the pedal only

Click to expand...

I wouldn't say that was a good product to use on a cermet resistance track, it's states it leaves a film. It needs a cleaner not a water repellant/sealer.

Datatek said:

I wouldn't say that was a good product to use on a cermet resistance track, it's states it leaves a film. It needs a cleaner not a water repellant/sealer.

Click to expand...

it doesnt reach the potentiometer's core as it's sealed... it's mainly for the plug but IMO it won't hurt the tracks neither:

Prevents oxidation

Restores functionality and electrical conductivity of components and devices affected by moisture

Prevents short circuits and moisture-related failures of devices

Extends the life time of electrical appliances and equipment

Forms a waterproof and water-repellent layer - which is not electrical isolator (a.n)

Can be applied on wet surfaces

Fills voids and pores

Retains electrical conductivity of the parts in moisture

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

it doesnt reach the potentiometer's core as it's sealed... it's mainly for the plug but IMO it won't hurt the tracks neither:

Click to expand...

I would still use a proper electronic cleaning agent.

Thank you for your very informed suggestions.
That is next on my list of things to do (after fixing the leaky roof on my house )