Farting Freelander!

After fitting an EGR bypass my FL seems to emit a strange noise when you switch the engine off.
Can anyone tell me if it may be exhaust gas escaping from the blanking disc on the EGR bypass???

Sounds like it if that's all you have fine - is the funny jubilee clip fitted correctly?

Farting Freelander indeed - How dare you!!!

It's our old friend - the EGR 'duck' for gods sake - he crops up every time someone blanks off the EGR actuating vacuum pipe.

How to shut up a duck?

Check here:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/egr-valve-sounds-like-duck-81578.html

Some bypasses have a location blank for the small pipe welded onto the body.

nickcc said:

Some bypasses have a location blank for the small pipe welded onto the body.

Click to expand...

Yes, but that doesn't stop Donald to pass by. Blocking the vacuumfeeding tube to the solenoïd is the remedy, either down at the arrival side of the solenoïd or, as I did, the much easier place at the departure of that tube near the vacuumcylinder. (A plastic T-piece where I took the tube, leading down to the solenoïd, off and blocked that hole with some layers of duckttape whereafter I pushed that tube over it again).

Very clever that, willo

Using duck-tape to shut up a duck!!!

Thanks, on the EGR bypass kit there was a thin rod welded to it to put the vaccum pipe on, so thats where I put it. Still sounds like Donald though!!!:mooning:

Read again willo's post - to totally eliminate the duck you need to deactivate the vacuum pipe further back.

The easiest place is as willo says the 't' junction near the vacuum cylinder.

I didn't use duck tape.

I got hold of about 25mm of vacuum pipe and a little metal shelf support pin of the type you find in a bag of bits from IKEA about 8mm long and 3.5mm in diameter.

It's really high tech this -

Pull off the pipe going from the 't' piece to the EGR solenoid away down in the bowels of the engine (were you would need a double-jointed dwarf to reach it) stick the metal shelf pin in it and rejoin to the 't' piece using the short 25mm bit. Sorted.

Result - no duck - or farts!

Singvogel said:

Very clever that, willo

Using duck-tape to shut up a duck!!!

Click to expand...

Yes, did that after I lost almost a whole afternoon trying to shut the f..k that bird off by putting a cabletie around it's bill (hope a bill is like a beak and not like a d.i.c.k??) but couldn't manage, it was too fast (and furious) for me to catch...

theplumber said:

Thanks, on the EGR bypass kit there was a thin rod welded to it to put the vaccum pipe on, so thats where I put it. Still sounds like Donald though!!!:mooning:

Click to expand...

See above.

Why not disconnect the power at the bottom? Thus stopping the vacuum being created in the pipe.

RichHead said:

Why not disconnect the power at the bottom? Thus stopping the vacuum being created in the pipe.

Click to expand...

What power ??

Ok, there's an assumption on my part that the solenoid which operates the vacuum pipe has a power supply, I haven't yet blanked my EGR, but was planning on tracing the vacuum pipe down to the solenoid and removing the power for the solenoid - this would stop the vacuum operating.

No?

Where the solenoid is located is quite difficult to reach -there is also the issue of closing off any pipes / junctions to prevent moisture or dust getting in.

By disabling at the 'T' piece it's easy, quick, and reversible if you want to revert to an EGR perhaps to sell the vehicle, or in the unlikely event that the MOT will include a test for a working EGR at some time in the future.

At the moment and for next year there is no requirement for an EGR.

I haven't got a clue as to whether any power is supplied to the solenoid, but see no need for any, I think.

I'm referring to connecter C0191 which plugs into the EGR Solenoid (Centre front of engine); I was assuming if I disconnected that the solenoid would never allow the vacuum to be created...

RichHead said:

I'm referring to connecter C0191 which plugs into the EGR Solenoid (Centre front of engine); I was assuming if I disconnected that the solenoid would never allow the vacuum to be created...

Click to expand...

You are quite possibly right - I'm unfamiliar with that connector and exactly what it does.

I was just happy to 'Ditch the Duck'.

Caution!
The solenoid is operated by the ECU - the ECU generates fault codes.
One of them may be EGR solenoid open cct. If this is so disconnecting the solenoid may be a no-no.
Better to blank the vac me thinks!

Just pull the pipe off the EGR and screw a 6mm Allan bolt into it - problem solved yes? Why make it difficult.

Problem solved? - no!

What you advocate will certainly disable the EGR and seal off the now redundant pipe.

However the difficulty is that some, or many, Freelanders still got the 'Dying Duck' noise.

Maybe you've been lucky not to get it angeloc.

It drove me nuts until I came across the 'little metal IKEA shelf peg' fix.

Singvogel said:

Problem solved? - no!

What you advocate will certainly disable the EGR and seal off the now redundant pipe.

However the difficulty is that some, or many, Freelanders still got the 'Dying Duck' noise.

Maybe you've been lucky not to get it angeloc.

It drove me nuts until I came across the 'little metal IKEA shelf peg' fix.

Click to expand...

²nd that. (and happy now).

All I did was fit an EGR bypass that had a small plug type thing sticking out of it - It is to put the vac pipe onto so it's looks like the original - I haven't even got a tie or jubilee on it - no noise.