P38A Falling out of love with my RR ?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I'm probably just being grumpy today..

The thing is.. I don't know what I would replace it with.. a Sport ? Another P38...

Then I'm back to having to redo everything I've done so far but on another RR.

If I win the lottery I'll put the P38 in for a full restoration.
 
I've done a fair few now, and the total usually comes to around £300 - that's everything included - Audi matrix, pipes, clamps, a recon heater box with the flaps freed up and lubed, new foam on the top of the heater box, retaping the ducts, all the labour - and on the last one a replacement blend motor, as one was faulty and it's not worth going back in a second time to re-do it.

You don't have to take any of the wood trim out to get the top of the dash off. (it is actually proper walnut... yes, a thin veneer on a metal backing, but all of the actual LR pieces of wood, were genuine wood - not some fake stuff.) Usually when you try and pry the wood cappings off, either it bends the metal backing/cracks the wood/lacquer or pulls the metal pins out, but you can get the dash off without touching them.

The passenger side one is listed as having to come off to get the passenger air bag out - but with a couple of trim tools, and the bolts from the airbag removed, you can actually get the airbag out with a bit of persuasion, and without damaging anything. On refit, the trim tools just help get the lugs on the front of the airbag unit back past the trim and it will slot back in and bolt up.

The only thing on ones I do that gets cut is the supports to the face air ducts behind the airbag on passenger side, and behind instrument cluster on the drivers side - these are held in with one screw and were obviously installed before the dash was mounted in the factory - cutting these supports gets the duct out and gives access to the bolts that secure the top of the dash to the frame. On reassembly, the sliding joint, and duct tape (also hand to seal up the joins, it's amazing how much more air you get out afterwards!) are sufficient to hold the duct in place.

If you decide to go that route as a DIY, then I can supply audi heater core kits - and also can help with advice/pictures etc of the process when I've done it before.
 
Phew Adam iv read the whole thread now glad you sorted it, it makes perfect sense that the LPG pipes at the back were putting stress on the heater matrix pipes. Was just about to see what Saturday I had free to come down and help restore your faith in the old girl.
 
martyuk said:
I've done a fair few now, and the total usually comes to around £300 - that's everything included - Audi matrix, pipes, clamps, a recon heater box with the flaps freed up and lubed, new foam on the top of the heater box, retaping the ducts, all the labour - and on the last one a replacement blend motor, as one was faulty and it's not worth going back in a second time to re-do it.

You don't have to take any of the wood trim out to get the top of the dash off. (it is actually proper walnut... yes, a thin veneer on a metal backing, but all of the actual LR pieces of wood, were genuine wood - not some fake stuff.) Usually when you try and pry the wood cappings off, either it bends the metal backing/cracks the wood/lacquer or pulls the metal pins out, but you can get the dash off without touching them.

The passenger side one is listed as having to come off to get the passenger air bag out - but with a couple of trim tools, and the bolts from the airbag removed, you can actually get the airbag out with a bit of persuasion, and without damaging anything. On refit, the trim tools just help get the lugs on the front of the airbag unit back past the trim and it will slot back in and bolt up.

The only thing on ones I do that gets cut is the supports to the face air ducts behind the airbag on passenger side, and behind instrument cluster on the drivers side - these are held in with one screw and were obviously installed before the dash was mounted in the factory - cutting these supports gets the duct out and gives access to the bolts that secure the top of the dash to the frame. On reassembly, the sliding joint, and duct tape (also hand to seal up the joins, it's amazing how much more air you get out afterwards!) are sufficient to hold the duct in place.

If you decide to go that route as a DIY, then I can supply audi heater core kits - and also can help with advice/pictures etc of the process when I've done it before.
Click to expand...
The thing is marty it's time the little one is coming up to 6 months old and I've hardly spent a weekend with her. Its been sorts cars out. Selling, buying sorting RR's out house hunting etc etc.. I just feel I'm missing out...

I'm sort of interested though.. I down tools for baby's bath time I'll see how it finishes off tomorrow.
 
biketeacherdave said:
Phew Adam iv read the whole thread now glad you sorted it, it makes perfect sense that the LPG pipes at the back were putting stress on the heater matrix pipes. Was just about to see what Saturday I had free to come down and help restore your faith in the old girl.
Click to expand...
Dave.. I'm really touche'd thank you.

Were you talking about the RR or the wife?
 
Yeah, the dash out, swap back in takes a couple of days to do it methodically - if you DIY it. The last one I did, the owner dropped it off to me, I dropped him off at the train station, and then picked him up again when it was all done and he came to pick it up.

You could probably do it in a day (I have before) if you have someone there helping. Take pictures on the disassembly to make sure wiring looms etc all go back in the proper routing!
 
I used old dinner forks to prise that bit of wood trim off. One at each end, and one in the middle. I got it off no problems with no cracks.

The Audi heater matrix is the best mod I've done to mine! It's a biggish job, but once done provides amazing tranquillity,
 
Last edited:
MrGorsky said:
I used old dinner forks to prise that bit of wood trim off. One at each end, and one in the middle. I got it off no problems with no cracks.

The Audio heater matrix is the best mod I've done to mine! It's a biggish job, but once done provides amazing tranquillity,
Click to expand...
How does it sound?
 
Yet another weekend with my head in RR's..

I'm tired... tired of it... Marty is going to do the Audi heater matrix swap for me mid June. To make the RR usable a simple case of a bit of hose to bypass the heater matrix.. simple enough...

No. The feed and return don't have the space to loop heater hose around without the hose kinking and stopping coolant flow.

Im at the point i would seriously scrap it if it wasn't needed so much
 
Do you have LPG on it? (I can't remember if you mentioned if you did or not)

If so, then you should (maybe with a couple of fittings) be able to plumb it so the LPG vapouriser is inline with the feed/return, instead of 'T' off it.

If you don't have LPG, then I've seen it done with a bendy spring inside the rubber pipe, so it doesn't kink.. Only a couple of weeks until I'm back, and I'll get it sorted for you!
 
martyuk said:
Do you have LPG on it? (I can't remember if you mentioned if you did or not)

If so, then you should (maybe with a couple of fittings) be able to plumb it so the LPG vapouriser is inline with the feed/return, instead of 'T' off it.

If you don't have LPG, then I've seen it done with a bendy spring inside the rubber pipe, so it doesn't kink.. Only a couple of weeks until I'm back, and I'll get it sorted for you!
Click to expand...
Yes its lpg but the t pieces are by the feed and return
 
You can probably get away with just looping the hose then, even if it kinks, as if your LPG system is T'd off the feed and return, then the vapouriser is still going to be flowing coolant that will then end up in the bypass/return feed. I'd be more worried if you didn't have LPG and bypassing then caused NO return coolant feed, or limited if the hose was kinked, but if the vapouriser will still be taking a flow feed, and then feeding back into the return, then you should be OK for a couple of weeks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

nevillen
An Honest RR Specialist
2
Replies
20
Views
965
Datatek
Datatek
IandiscoV8
P38A Blend motors installed - heating fixed.
Replies
1
Views
364
Montyjohn
Montyjohn
Charles Banbury
L405 Vibration. Love this car, best advice?
Replies
14
Views
512
Charles Banbury
Charles Banbury
Mad McNiff
05 RR Sport Cooling and purpose of mystery connections.
Replies
3
Views
245
Graculus
Graculus
S
P38A Fix or Farwell
Replies
4
Views
328
doriz
doriz
Back
Top