Extracting heat from the EAS box the easy way - with pics

JamesBB · Apr 4, 2014

This may, or may not, put the cat amongst the pigeons.

Or maybe I am just mad as I did it for the hell of it.

My thermal switch died a couple of years back and it is fix and working now. Leaks found and springs replace (well finishing tomorrow).
So there seems to be a few threads on here about cooling the EAS box.

I have seen several people here (and on other forums etc) using PC fans to move the air. I was not keen on that idea, noisy fans running all the time even when they do not need to, lots of holes to be drilled, grills fitted etc.......
Then I read a thread where Wammers suggested that an ideal way would be to put a pipe between the top of the EAS box and the air filter box and use the natural air induction of the engine to pull air past the compressor. Now I have done just that, well I used 2 pipes. 1 each side of the compressor to draw the air.

Photos show how.

The pipes feed in under the air filter to reduce the risk of crud intake.

Anyway, it seems to be working well. My homemade compressor refurb with a new bearing/bush, is surviving and it stays cooler.

Druim · Apr 4, 2014

JamesBB said:
This may, or may not, put the cat amongst the pigeons. Or maybe I am just mad as I did it for the hell of it.

My thermal switch died a couple of years back and it is fix and working now. Leaks found and springs replace (well finishing tomorrow).
So there seems to be a few threads on here about cooling the EAS box.

I have seen several people here (and on other forums etc) using PC fans to move the air. I was not keen on that idea, noisy fans running all the time even when they do not need to, lots of holes to be drilled, grills fitted etc.......
Then I read a thread where Wammers suggested that an ideal way would be to put a pipe between the top of the EAS box and the air filter box and use the natural air induction of the engine to pull air past the compressor. Now I have done just that, well I used 2 pipes. 1 each side of the compressor to draw the air.

Photos show how.

The pipes feed in under the air filter to reduce the risk of crud intake.

Anyway, it seems to be working well. My homemade compressor refurb with a new bearing/bush, is surviving and it stays cooler.

:hysterically_laughi A good working EAS do not need extra cooling , spend your time/cash in the right places

tomcat59alan · Apr 4, 2014

Druim said:
:hysterically_laughi A good working EAS do not need extra cooling , spend your time/cash in the right places

The EAS box already has two vents as standard, as can be seen in photo 1,

(right hand side)

JamesBB · Apr 4, 2014

tomcat59alan said:
The EAS box already has two vents as standard, as can be seen in photo 1, (right hand side)

Agree on all counts that the box should not need cooling. But most things running cooler would surely last longer?

Photo 1 is the air filter box, the hole on the RHS is the main air intake for the air filter. The holes in the EAS box as standard are surely just a couple of tiny slots side and rear. Nothing much.......

JamesBB · Apr 4, 2014

Found the thread that set the spark of inspiration, it contains good info from Wammers and Datatek.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/eas-over-heat-cure-234687.html

Now my leaks should be fixed, it may buy more time for the compressor and driver pack should a new leak appear.

Druim · Apr 4, 2014

JamesBB said:
Agree on all counts that the box should not need cooling. But most things running cooler would surely last longer?

Photo 1 is the air filter box, the hole on the RHS is the main air intake for the air filter. The holes in the EAS box as standard are surely just a couple of tiny slots side and rear. Nothing much.......

Your system draws hot air from engine bay into air filter box via Eas box, what's the point

Druim · Apr 4, 2014

JamesBB said:
Found the thread that set the spark of inspiration, it contains good info from Wammers and Datatek.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/eas-over-heat-cure-234687.html

Now my leaks should be fixed, it may buy more time for the compressor and driver pack should a new leak appear.

Sort the EAS instead

I have new pump and valve block supplied by Kurt (look sale section) + new air bags, compressor hardly run
Anyone experiencing problems with cooling is only due to faults, leaks or wear

JamesBB · Apr 4, 2014

Druim said:
Your system draws hot air from engine bay into air filter box via Eas box, what's the point

Some hot air from the engine bay into the air filter box via the EAS box.

Due to the far lower airflow capability of the pipes the amount of air drawn that way (if you measured the CFM) is tiny in comparison to the amount via the main intake. So all that happens is a low but continual (even if not constant in volume) flow of air over components that by design can reach over 100 degrees C.

tomcat59alan · Apr 4, 2014

JamesBB said:
Agree on all counts that the box should not need cooling. But most things running cooler would surely last longer?

Photo 1 is the air filter box, the hole on the RHS is the main air intake for the air filter. The holes in the EAS box as standard are surely just a couple of tiny slots side and rear. Nothing much.......

Ah, thought you had taken the compressor and valve block out of your eas box. If you do then you will see they are not tiny slots.

StuckAgainSteve · Apr 5, 2014

Even though the volume through those pipes won't be huge - the movement of air is good and the slight warming of the inlet charge might be good for mpg!

Done about 10K with my fan mod, there's no crud around the underside of the holes the fan sucks through to indicate it's encouraging dust to be pulled through and it's no dirtier than usual in there. My compressor is now always cool to the touch - a vast improvement from the bad-old burny finger days! My fan is still powered by the compressor and only runs when the compressor runs - you cannot hear it at all over the noise of the compressor.

StuckAgainSteve · Apr 5, 2014

Druim said:
:hysterically_laughi A good working EAS do not need extra cooling , spend your time/cash in the right places

Heat rises, the hot part of the compressor is sitting in the unvented lid of the box - surely dumping the extremities of heat can't be a bad thing?

stevebrookman · Apr 5, 2014

Morning all,
As previously mentioned I had problems two years ago with the EAS going into hard fault after an hours driving-fault said pressure valve I think. Looking into the eas box the only ventilation is on the side-heat rises-the compressor gets very hot and there is nowhere for the heat to escape easily. I drilled a series of holes for the heat to dissipate.
With age MOSFETs (which do get hotish anyway) do start to degrade and heat is always a problem with oldish electronics.
I've not had a problem with the eas for nearly two years now, and as a bonus the compressor is getting cooler air.

Regards

Steve

Datatek · Apr 5, 2014

stevebrookman said:
Morning all,
As previously mentioned I had problems two years ago with the EAS going into hard fault after an hours driving-fault said pressure valve I think. Looking into the eas box the only ventilation is on the side-heat rises-the compressor gets very hot and there is nowhere for the heat to escape easily. I drilled a series of holes for the heat to dissipate.
With age MOSFETs (which do get hotish anyway) do start to degrade and heat is always a problem with oldish electronics.
I've not had a problem with the eas for nearly two years now, and as a bonus the compressor is getting cooler air.

Regards

Steve

The IR520 MOSFET's used in the driver pack have an absolute max tepmerature rating of 175C. The compressor can get to 100C and certainly produces a fair amount of heat even when the EAS is good.
The MOSFET's are encapsulated and have no heat sinks so no means of dissipating heat. How hot they will get will depend on the ambient temperature in the box and the duty cycle. I don't think the MOSFET's are the problem, it's other components like electrolytics/capacitors rated a 105C that are likely to fail due to heat.
Without doubt, keeping the driver pack cool will prolong it's life, holes in the top chamfered edges are all that is needed to release the trapped heat.

JamesBB · Apr 5, 2014

All in all I think that any mechanism to remove some of the heat trapped in the box is a good thing.

Running a fan only when the compressor is on certainly sounds better than continually.

stopover · Apr 5, 2014

StuckAgainSteve said:
Heat rises, the hot part of the compressor is sitting in the unvented lid of the box - surely dumping the extremities of heat can't be a bad thing?

Never had any problems but as cooling seems important to some why not route the air/con pipe (the on that goes cold and runs next to it) through the box top as you will be using the air/con in hot weather anyway??

mutsnutz · Apr 5, 2014

just take the fecking lid of if your worried about heat build up putting tiny pipes in wont do much to remove heat when the heat is at the the top of the box or drill a few holes in the lid problem solved

gfromleeds · Apr 6, 2014

I never had a problem with heat in the eas box cos my eas works as it should but when I was last under the bonnet with a drill I put about a dozen 10mm holes in the lid then taped a piece of the wifes tights over the lid to act of a kind of filter
Doesn't look great but I guess its all thats needed

Datatek · Apr 6, 2014

gfromleeds said:
I never had a problem with heat in the eas box cos my eas works as it should but when I was last under the bonnet with a drill I put about a dozen 10mm holes in the lid then taped a piece of the wifes tights over the lid to act of a kind of filter
Doesn't look great but I guess its all thats needed

Wasted your time drilling the holes if you then covered them with tights, there will be little or no airflow.

tomcat59alan · Apr 6, 2014

Datatek said:
Wasted your time drilling the holes if you then covered them with tights, there will be little or no airflow.

But they were fishnets.

Extracting heat from the EAS box the easy way - with pics

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