Freelander 1 Exhaust Stud Thread Pitch

[xDParis64]

Hey all!

Hoping that someone on here knows the thread pitch and size of the studs on the Early 1.8K Series?

I am looking into timesert repair for the head thread but unsure of the size tap and die I'd need - From what I've found it is an M10 x 25mm stud but nowhere has the info on the actual thread pitch - 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 2 etc. . .

I also understand the TD4 has different thread pitch and size entirely - Hoping someone is able to check for me?

Thank you!

 

[Nodge68]

From memory, they're standard thread pitch, which for an M10 would be 1.5mm.

 

[andyfreelandy]

Just a thought. The stud in your photo looked very short. Worth putting something thin in the hole to gauge depth and seeing if a longer thread would hold in the inner part of the hole???

 

[xDParis64]

Just a thought. The stud in your photo looked very short. Worth putting something thin in the hole to gauge depth and seeing if a longer thread would hold in the inner part of the hole???

Good thinking!

I checked the spare head I've got laying around - looking to repair instead of switch heads as this spare one is "save-able" but with more work than it's worth I could get a fully recon head for cheaper than machining this one.

But the holes are almost immediately blanked from the thread you can fit maybe an additional 2 or 3 threads in there (attached a picture)

Just hoping I don't crack the head tapping it - being how the spare head is I have 5 practice goes

 

[andyfreelandy]

Yes but the stud with the stripped aluminium on it looked like it was only 3 threads into the head from your photo. So by removing the nut from the stud and fitting it fully in it might hold ok??

Always lock 2 nuts on the end of the stud. Wind it fully home then remove locked nuts, fit component then fit nut last

 

[xDParis64]

Always lock 2 nuts on the end of the stud. Wind it fully home then remove locked nuts, fit component then fit nut last

I was under the impression that he stud should be fitted only finger tight and not tightened down.

However on that note I already got new studs for it I am wondering the best way to remove the studs from the current head on the car without ruining more threads or warping the head by heating the studs Was going to use to nuts and tighten them against each other and then undo the first nut and it should turn the stud hopefully won't cause damage - Won't be doing this till either during the meet or after the meet.

I need to get the rads out to reasonably get a drill in there straight

 

[Nodge68]

I was under the impression that he stud should be fitted only finger tight and not tightened down.

However on that note I already got new studs for it I am wondering the best way to remove the studs from the current head on the car without ruining more threads or warping the head by heating the studs Was going to use to nuts and tighten them against each other and then undo the first nut and it should turn the stud hopefully won't cause damage - Won't be doing this till either during the meet or after the meet.

I need to get the rads out to reasonably get a drill in there straight

Studs should be nipped up, just enough to prevent them spinning out when the nut is removed. However they should always be fully seated down to the unthreaded portion, or water can creep down the threads, causing it's own set of issues.

 

[xDParis64]

Studs should be nipped up, just enough to prevent them spinning out when the nut is removed. However they should always be fully seated down to the unthreaded portion, or water can creep down the threads, causing it's own set of issues.

Ah got it!

I will be sure then to snug them up ensuring they are fully seated!

Don't suppose you have any tips on removing the current studs without causing damage?

 

[andyfreelandy]

Why not try to seat the one that has stripped first and leave / avoid damage to others if you can?

It might hold with the correct insertion.