Exhaust 300tdi removal

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

BostonTar

Active Member
Posts
353
Location
Flagrante
Trying to remove my old exhaust and replace but having issues getting this nuts offs. Can I cut them? As I can’t see how they will fall out. They look attached to turbo? Or do they have to be left for new exhaust pip to slot onto?
Photo attached, thanks.
 
Last edited:
Its much easier if you can leave the studs undamaged as any you cut or break off will need to be replaced. A nut splitter could be useful although I'd probably get them hot and use a really good fitting socket.
 
Its much easier if you can leave the studs undamaged as any you cut or break off will need to be replaced. A nut splitter could be useful although I'd probably get them hot and use a really good fitting socket.
Managed to get two off. The third one at the back is rounded and beyond repair. Could I just drill it out and spot weld a new thread in?
 
Managed to get two off. The third one at the back is rounded and beyond repair. Could I just drill it out and spot weld a new thread in?

Have you tried hammering home an irwin nut remover? if you can clear the thread, or even a long series smaller socket to get a bite?

Cheers
 
That will need heat to remove it, heat the flange round the stud that the rounded nut is on then
heat the nut & hammer a smaller socket onto it or irwin, better with an impact socket a normal one may
split. If you cut it off you can use a stud extractor to get the rest of the stud out. If youve got no
heat run the engine for while & hammer the socket on the stud, it may shift.
 
I find a Dremel (or similar) with the flexible extension & the small reinforced cutting discs very useful for cutting things - incl nuts - in tight spaces.
 
Update: No luck had to cut it! The nut cracker didn’t fit behind the stud. Probably the original nut since 1996! Thanks for the help however, useful tips!
 
Soak nuts/threads with Plus Gas for a couple of days. Then apply heat using MapGas [butane's not hot enough] then crack off. They can be buggers to remove and the stud will often come free with the nut. Although a tight space it is possible to get a bar onto the socket head, it only needs the first crack to release, then back to ratchet and long socket. Buy all new nuts, washers and studs to do a proper job applying liberal amount of ceramic grease/copperslip upon reassembly.
 
Back
Top