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Garboy88

Active Member
Posts
475
Location
South Wales
Been thinking... When my k series finally decides to let go, do I replace the engine with a rebuilt 1 or get another freelander, diesel tho and use mine for parts or is it possible and worth it to convert mine to a L series diesel or a td4

Any positive opinions would be great... And no I'm not buying a rot box disco or defender :p lol
 
It's possible to get power and reliability from an L series ;)
The MG boys are getting a reliable 150+ Bhp with 200+ Ftlb of Torque!!
 
There would be so much to change it would be more cost effective to do the mods to the K series that make it stop blowing the h/gasket JMHO
 
AFAIK the L series uses the Getrag gearbox (coroboration someone?) Much better than PG1 for torque handling :).
 
What other mods could I do to the k series it had a mls gasket strengthened head bolts new water pump new thermostat new back box although it needs a new center section and down pipe so might aswel price a manifold and cat aswel while I'm there lol I found a 4 branch with a decaf on it are they any good or will it cause problems?
 
Garboy88 said:
What other mods could I do to the k series it had a mls gasket strengthened head bolts new water pump new thermostat new back box although it needs a new center section and down pipe so might aswel price a manifold and cat aswel while I'm there lol I found a 4 branch with a decaf on it are they any good or will it cause problems?
Click to expand...

did yer knock the ball bearing out of the jiggle valve?
 
WLJayne said:
AFAIK the L series uses the Getrag gearbox (coroboration someone?) Much better than PG1 for torque handling :).
Click to expand...

The L series uses the PG1 "High Torque" box ;) they will handle well over 200 Ftlb with the steel caged bearings ;)
I'm more than happy to put the 200bhp my ZS180 makes trough one and have had no problems in 25K miles :)
Although it's better to buy a L series powered Hippo rather than try an engine swap!!
 
Last edited:
Freelaner said:
did yer knock the ball bearing out of the jiggle valve?
Click to expand...

I'm going to disagree with Freelaner here, not sure if that's happened before. All that's behind the valve is air, and as long as you make sure it's not jammed you should be fine. The water pump pressurises it shut so that no water goes up the bleed whe the injun is running, but when the coolant is drained it falls into the open position so that air can travel freely out of the head while you are filling it.

I don't see how removing it can be of benefit with my own observations :). Besides picking up my EWP baton there's not much else you can do apart from fitting a low coolant level mod to the tank (seach lots of results.)

Will.
 
Last edited:
WLJayne said:
I'm going to disagree with Freelaner here, not sure if that's happened before. All that's behind the valve is air, and as long as you make sure it's not jammed you should be fine. The water pump pressurises it shut so that no water goes up the bleed, but when the coolant is drained it falls into the open position so that air can travel freely out of the head while you are filling it.

I don't see how removing it can be of benefit with my own observations :). Besides picking up my EWP baton there's not much else you can do apart from fitting a low coolant level mod to the tank (seach lots of results.)

Will.
Click to expand...

Every time I checked it which was daily when the bugger was overheating it was stuck and every time I freeeeeeeed it lol once it was removed all was well :) for now.........
 
it's ok to disagree ;)


imho and through experience with mine the JV is now continually flowing with coolant, whereas afore it did jam and cause problems.

to summarise it causes less problems without it :)
 
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