Engine won't start up | petrol 2.25

piston-return-spring · Dec 17, 2012

Hey folks,
So I need some advise considering the start up of my engine. Mechanically everything is in order , carburetor should work as the engine ran 2 years ago (before restoration)and fuel pump is new ....
Need help with the electrics as everything is 24 volt .I think there is no spark.. :scratching_chin: ...(fuses are ok)

Where can I start?

Dr_evil · Dec 17, 2012

Snigger

Welcome to my world

as to no spark, module, feed, plugs, cables, rotor, coil, cap

piston-return-spring · Dec 17, 2012

Forgot to mention that I have new spark plugs and i have adjusted the timing ....
Could it be that I have connected the wirings wrong???

Dr_evil · Dec 17, 2012

Make sure live is live and earth is earth on module to coil and feed to coil

CJ2a · Dec 17, 2012

Dr_evil said:
Make sure live is live and earth is earth on module to coil and feed to coil

doc its a 24 volt coil which means most likley that it is the mod version and should look something like this with a regulator box next to it to the OP does this look anything like your engine coil and alternator because this is a 24v 2.25 hope it helps a bit

oxides · Dec 17, 2012

Remove HT lead from middle of dizzy cap, fit an old plug and rest on the block. With the rocker arm in the dizzy off cam (points normally closed) open and close the points with something insulating (lolly stick or similar) If you get a big, fat, blue spark the problem is in the HT side, check the firing order (on manifold, dizzy goes anticlockwise, front cylinder is 1 and should be fed from the cap outlet pointing to the front of the engine) No go? try replacing the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads.
If you get a very weak spark, check the points gap and replace the condenser. (I'd replace the lot as a matter of course anyway)

No spark at all? Check points gap. With points open - If no current getting to points check voltage at coil in and out - if nothing on the output replace coil, if nothing on the input, chase wiring back to ignition switch.
If you're sure there's a good spark happening at the right time then it's time to look at the carb and fuel system.

CJ2a · Dec 17, 2012

oxides said:
Remove HT lead from middle of dizzy cap, fit an old plug and rest on the block. With the rocker arm in the dizzy off cam (points normally closed) open and close the points with something insulating (lolly stick or similar) If you get a big, fat, blue spark the problem is in the HT side, check the firing order (on manifold, dizzy goes anticlockwise, front cylinder is 1 and should be fed from the cap outlet pointing to the front of the engine) No go? try replacing the dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads.
If you get a very weak spark, check the points gap and replace the condenser. (I'd replace the lot as a matter of course anyway)

No spark at all? Check points gap. With points open - If no current getting to points check voltage at coil in and out - if nothing on the output replace coil, if nothing on the input, chase wiring back to ignition switch.
If you're sure there's a good spark happening at the right time then it's time to look at the carb and fuel system.

24 volt land rover re readand post again the only reason the engine in the pic above has standard leads and plugs because i adapted my cap and bought a roll of spark plug lead and made my own up but most of that correct beware the 24volt dizzy is water proof and if its all corroded up inside will not be nice to open up

piston-return-spring · Dec 18, 2012

In fact it looks like this, different wirings , but the the same principle.

CJ2a · Dec 20, 2012

that is exactly how it should look and you have the earlier type alternator mine is messed about because i adapted my dizzy cap but the coil and the voltage regulator is the same i adapted mine to take normal spark plugs bp5es and it runs lovley also a lot cheaper than the bloody military plugs, the normal bits are easier for me to either get or make out here so thats why i use them and i have a few new rotor arms and complete dizzys in reserve, do you want me to post over by snail mail my adapted dizzy cap so you can have a play ??

piston-return-spring · Dec 20, 2012

It's very nice of you but I don't think that the issue is because of these parts. There might just be an electric wire wrong connected , what do you think could get me this issue ???

CJ2a · Dec 21, 2012

have you ever seen the engine running or was it dead when you started playing and is any of the 24v ignition system new or all old, might be as simple as coil playing up or points not opening properly, either way i have some parts if you want to borrow have them etc to play and test new coil is expensive £160 quid and i have spares same as complete dizzy if you want to really play but check your regulator box to make sure it has voltage going in (small wire and the voltage going out big wire) and dont worry its not massive voltage i think it actually drops the voltage to 12 (not 100% sure on that) hope that helps a bit

piston-return-spring · Dec 21, 2012

Will check that tomorow

thank you very much...
Actually tthe ignition system should work as the engine run 2 years ago (optically everything is fine , no rust , no parts broken , points opening correctly )
If really something is defect i will contact you , but iam sure it is just a stupid thing .... ^^

piston-return-spring · Dec 22, 2012

I think I have solved the problem , a wiring from the filter unit has broken of .... I ahve to buy a new unit

CJ2a · Dec 24, 2012

na dont buy a new unit i will send you one over mate may be snail mail but take a pic and it will be in the post (i converted my 24v to 12 because i set fire to the alternator and being a tight sod i converted it to 12v cause i had the bits and i have a full second system cause i is a tight git again)

piston-return-spring · Dec 24, 2012

I have seen that it costs 430 £ new , and i dont even need it, because i fixed it , and you know what it fired right up yesterday

engine is running a bit rough , i need to adjust the carburetor .. but thats all ^^

johnny curt 1 · Dec 24, 2012

piston-return-spring said:
I have seen that it costs 430 £ new , and i dont even need it, because i fixed it , and you know what it fired right up yesterday
engine is running a bit rough , i need to adjust the carburetor .. but thats all ^^

if you have put new valves and rings in that engine id get it up to full temperature first and keep it going for a good hour before tweaking the carb as evrything will need to settle in propper first

piston-return-spring · Dec 24, 2012

Only the headgasket and other gaskets were changed , does that matters????

johnny curt 1 · Dec 25, 2012

piston-return-spring said:
Only the headgasket and other gaskets were changed , does that matters????

if you did the valve stem oil seals you have more than likely disturbed the seating of the valves and they just need a good run idling to settle them back in likewise if youve cleaned the valves off ( de-coked them ) they need to build up a bit of carbon to reseal properly

Engine won't start up | petrol 2.25

piston-return-spring

New Member

Dr_evil

Banned

piston-return-spring

New Member

Dr_evil

Banned

CJ2a

Well-Known Member

oxides

Well-Known Member

CJ2a

Well-Known Member

piston-return-spring

New Member

Attachments

CJ2a

Well-Known Member

piston-return-spring

New Member

CJ2a

Well-Known Member

piston-return-spring

New Member

piston-return-spring

New Member

CJ2a

Well-Known Member

piston-return-spring

New Member

johnny curt 1

Well-Known Member

piston-return-spring

New Member

johnny curt 1

Well-Known Member

Similar threads