Engine removal

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What are your plans?
I removed mine on Saturday but I don't plan to refit it or any other TD4 so my method was different to what I would have done otherwise.
 
Alibro said:
What are your plans?
I removed mine on Saturday but I don't plan to refit it or any other TD4 so my method was different to what I would have done otherwise.
Click to expand...
Basically current engine has lots of white smoke when under load and rates like a box of spanners and has no power. Injectors tested,oil change new crankcase breather,new rocker cover gasket as old one was brittle and then I noticed no oil on front came,it was dry with surface rust but rear cam was fine someone mentioned oil blockage and I think past its prime so rather than spend even more cash on it thought might be worth changing it.
 
Spaniel25 said:
Basically current engine has lots of white smoke when under load and rates like a box of spanners and has no power. Injectors tested,oil change new crankcase breather,new rocker cover gasket as old one was brittle and then I noticed no oil on front came,it was dry with surface rust but rear cam was fine someone mentioned oil blockage and I think past its prime so rather than spend even more cash on it thought might be worth changing it.
Click to expand...

Ali has just removed a working TD4, so of you fancy a trip to NI, I'm sure he'd sell it to you.;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Ali has just removed a working TD4, so of you fancy a trip to NI, I'm sure he'd sell it to you.;)
Click to expand...
Theres an issue with that,I'm in Wales and we cant even leave our own towns right now......
So looking at delivery options which does limit my search a lot.
Luckily no rush,probably take me for ever to get this engine out....
 
It's a pity you are over the water as my engine is fine and will be going up for sale soon.
This is mostly how I did it.
Follow this guide up to the point where you unbolt the gearbox except you don't have to remove the IRD.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-change-in-a-td4-list-of-jobs-to-do.315242/
Unbolt the aircon and power steering pumps from the engine
Remove/disconnect any pipes you see.
put a trolley jack under the sump and a bottle jack under the IRD.
Unbolt the gear linkage from the bottom of the firewall. (Two 10mm I think bolts)
unbolt the engine mounts
Raise the car as high as you can. (the engine should stay put)
Panic and unhook the pipes/cables you missed earlier.
Lower the engine on the trolley jack and bottle jack, wondering the whole time how on earth you're going to get it out as the car is still not high enough.
Struggle to turn the trolley jack with the engine on it.
Watch as the engine gracefully topples off the trolley jack into an odd angle perfect to allow it to spill it's fluids all over your floor.
Rush to jam a piece of wood under the sump and pull it back upright, then stand there for a bit trying to figure out how you're going to shift it.
Realise it will now slide on the wood and better yet there is plenty of room for it now it's no longer on the trolley jack.
Sorted. ;)

With hind sight I would have used the engine hoist instead of trolley jack to hold and lower the engine, then slide it out on the wood.
I'm sure I missed something here but hopefully others will add to this.
 
Last edited:
Alibro said:
It's a pity you are over the water as my engine is fine and will be going up for sale soon.
This is mostly how I did it.
Follow this guide up to the point where you unbolt the gearbox except you don't have to remove the IRD.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-change-in-a-td4-list-of-jobs-to-do.315242/
Unbolt the aircon and power steering pumps from the engine
Remove/disconnect any pipes you see.
put a trolley jack under the sump and a bottle jack under the IRD.
Unbolt the gear linkage from the bottom of the firewall. (Two 10mm I think bolts)
unbolt the engine mounts
Raise the car as high as you can. (the engine should stay put)
Panic and unhook the pipes/cables you missed earlier.
Lower the engine on the trolley jack and bottle jack, wondering the whole time how on earth you're going to get it out as the car is still not high enough.
Struggle to turn the trolley jack with the engine on it.
Watch as the engine gracefully topples off the trolley jack into an odd angle perfect to allow it to spill it's fluids all over your floor.
Rush to jam a piece of wood under the sump and pull it back upright, then stand there for a bit trying to figure out how you're going to shift it.
Realise it will now slide on the wood and better yet there is plenty of room for it now it's no longer on the trolley jack.
Sorted. ;)

With hind sight I would have used the engine hoist instead of trolley jack to hold and lower the engine, then slide it out on the wood.
I'm sure I missed something here but hopefully others will add to this.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that.i will check out the link ,do like your version though.
So best to remove from under the car not out the bonnet then?
 
LOL, it was me did the double post.
Spaniel25 said:
Thanks for that.i will check out the link ,do like your version though.
So best to remove from under the car not out the bonnet then?
Click to expand...
@Nodge68 recommended I do it that way and he is the guru hereabouts on Freelanders.
Edit: He didn't recommend the toppling and spilling bit. :p
 
Nodge68 said:
If you are just removing the engine, then it's less work to take it out the top.

You're planning on removing the entire assembly, with the gearbox and IRD, then take it out the bottom. ;)
Click to expand...
Just the engine as fingers crossed gearbox etc all good.is it just unbolt from gear box and mounting and pipes and cables etc the separate from gearbox or am I over simplifying things?
 
Spaniel25 said:
Just the engine as fingers crossed gearbox etc all good.is it just unbolt from gear box and mounting and pipes and cables etc the separate from gearbox or am I over simplifying things?
Click to expand...

That's pretty much it. The AC compressor can be unbolted from the block and hung up out the way, leaving the pipework connected. There's a couple of convenient holes in the front panel to hang the compressor out the way.

The rest is just freeing it from the body and transmission. You should be able to leave the IRD and gearbox in situ, but it is sometimes easier to remove the IRD from the box to give more space, but I've done it without removing the IRD.

There is just enough room to get the engine free of the gearbox, once the engine mounts are out the way. ;)
 
To remove the gearbox you're best to first remove the IRD as there is a 10mm bolt holding a tin plate to the gearbox which will cause grief.
I believe technically it is possible to remove the gearbox without taking the IRD off first but nobody does it that way for good reason.
The IRD has two bolts on the top which are about two inches apart. The first is relatively easy to get to, the second not so much.
If you decide to remove engine only by going up, then the link I posted is a pretty good guide to getting the two separated. You can get away with leaving the IRD cooling pipes connected if you do what the mechanic in the video did, also the subframe and N/S drive shaft can stay.
 
Thanks for the replies,think its gonna be engine out only,so out the top it is.the less I remove the less i can break.....
 
Alibro said:
To remove the gearbox you're best to first remove the IRD as there is a 10mm bolt holding a tin plate to the gearbox which will cause grief.
Click to expand...
I'd forgotten about that plate. :oops:
Alibro said:
I believe technically it is possible to remove the gearbox without taking the IRD off first but nobody does it that way for good reason.
Click to expand...

Indeed. That's the way I did it when I replaced my V6 engine.
Screenshot_20201020-214037_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20201020-214322_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20201020-214343_Gallery.jpg
 
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