Engine ooot...

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
D

Doo

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,771
Location
away
Evenin all. As per title the engine is coming out . What's best way to pull it out, with or without the torque converter attached?

I'm thinking to unbolt it and if any cracks , replace the flexi drive plate.

So can I undo the bolts from the removable circular inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing?

What size bolts ?

Any other advice?

Cheers. Doo.
 
Leave the TC attached to the gearbox but be aware that it isn't bolted to the gearbox, just pushed onto the gearbox input shafts & can slide off & fall onto the ground.
If it does or slips forward you MUST ensure it is correctly seated on the box to a specific depth before fitting box to engine (or vice versa) or it will all bolt up but will split the pump in the box. No pump = no fluid pressure = no drive & you get to take it all apart again.
I made up a T shaped piece of steel with the long part sticking up inside the bellhousing through the round inspection hole & against the front of the TC. The shorter bits of the T I drilled to suit the bolts that hold the round inspection plate. Use a decent thickness as body thickness steel can bend & let the TC fall off......

The 4 flex plate to TC bolts are accessed by removing the half-moon shaped cover on the lower front of the bellhousing.
Item 1 in this link: http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91427/91612/7243/91613
Can't remember the bolt head size.
 
Last edited:
Unbolt it first, otherwise they tend to fall out of the gearbox. I made a small bracket to hold mine in place via the inspection hole.
 
There is an inspection hole in the bellhousing on the thor, you take out the flex plate to converter bolts and leave the converter sat on the gearbox!

DON'T REMOVE THE CONVERTER WITH THE ENGINE!!

be wary too on the thor there are bell housing bolts which can be a pain in the ass, the one by the starter being one..

Being that your heads are off it should be a piece of píss.
 
As others have said, leave the torque converter (TC) attached to the transmission input shaft, and also have something to support the transmission after you pull the engine. We had a transmission support on the hydraulic lift (commercial type) so didn't need anything else, but you can use anything handy that will hold up the transmission and not allow the TC to fall off. Good luck, pulling the engine on Land Rovers is not as easy as my old 1967 Ford Bronco, as you'll undoubtedly discover soon...
 
Ratae said:
Leave the TC attached to the gearbox but be aware that it isn't bolted to the gearbox, just pushed onto the gearbox input shafts & can slide off & fall onto the ground.
If it does or slips forward you MUST ensure it is correctly seated on the box to a specific depth before fitting box to engine (or vice versa) or it will all bolt up but will split the pump in the box. No pump = no fluid pressure = no drive & you get to take it all apart again.
I made up a T shaped piece of steel with the long part sticking up inside the bellhousing through the round inspection hole & against the front of the TC. The shorter bits of the T I drilled to suit the bolts that hold the round inspection plate. Use a decent thickness as body thickness steel can bend & let the TC fall off......

The 4 flex plate to TC bolts are accessed by removing the half-moon shaped cover on the lower front of the bellhousing.
Item 1 in this link: http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91427/91612/7243/91613
Can't remember the bolt head size.
Click to expand...

That's great thanks.

The last time I took an automatic gearbox off was when I changed the engine on my 3.0V6 Renault Espace...

I knew there was a good reason to keep the TC on the box! I may just use a ratchet strap to keep it tight in to the box.

It's all fun and games with these bloody cars o_O
 
Use something up through the inspection hole to hold it in place & stop it sliding forward at all.
If you separate the box & engine enough to get a ratchet strap across the mouth of the bellhousing it will have slipped forward a fair distance & I think you're probably going to end up with it on the floor before your realise what's happening. They are very heavy & contain a lot of fluid which will go all over the floor if it lands open side down. Guess how I know.
IIRC the required seating depth on mine (RRC ZF4HP22, yours should be the ZF4HP24) is 50mm from a straight edge laid across the mouth of the bell housing to the front of any of the four threaded lugs on the front of the TC.
It's a lot of fun getting it back on again. Not.
 
Last edited:
Turns out I don't have a half moon plate... There's two rubber bungs, one each side to allow access to the bolts. They're all out.

We cannot get the bottom bolt out of the starter motor :rolleyes: My other mate has a high torque Snap On battery rachet, so if push comes to shove... ;)

But, looking at it, the starter doesn't look too be attached through the engine so is it possible to get get the engine away leaving the starter in place o_O

My gearbox mounts sit quite far forward so will I still need to hold it up? I could spare an axle stand on it.

FWD drive cars are so much easier than AWD :rolleyes:

We'll get it out tomorrow... But it's pretty much ready :confused:
 
Doo said:
Turns out I don't have a half moon plate... There's two rubber bungs, one each side to allow access to the bolts. They're all out.

We cannot get the bottom bolt out of the starter motor :rolleyes: My other mate has a high torque Snap On battery rachet, so if push comes to shove... ;)

But, looking at it, the starter doesn't look too be attached through the engine so is it possible to get get the engine away leaving the starter in place o_O

My gearbox mounts sit quite far forward so will I still need to hold it up? I could spare an axle stand on it.

FWD drive cars are so much easier than AWD :rolleyes:

We'll get it out tomorrow... But it's pretty much ready :confused:
Click to expand...

Starter can stay on the engine..

The flex plat bolts are undone vis the holes with a rubber plug in 'em
 
Ratae said:
Leave the TC attached to the gearbox but be aware that it isn't bolted to the gearbox, just pushed onto the gearbox input shafts & can slide off & fall onto the ground.
If it does or slips forward you MUST ensure it is correctly seated on the box to a specific depth before fitting box to engine (or vice versa) or it will all bolt up but will split the pump in the box. No pump = no fluid pressure = no drive & you get to take it all apart again.
I made up a T shaped piece of steel with the long part sticking up inside the bellhousing through the round inspection hole & against the front of the TC. The shorter bits of the T I drilled to suit the bolts that hold the round inspection plate. Use a decent thickness as body thickness steel can bend & let the TC fall off......

The 4 flex plate to TC bolts are accessed by removing the half-moon shaped cover on the lower front of the bellhousing.
Item 1 in this link: http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91427/91612/7243/91613
Can't remember the bolt head size.
Click to expand...

@MrGorsky!
 
Doo said:
My gearbox mounts sit quite far forward so will I still need to hold it up? I could spare an axle stand on it.
Click to expand...

I started out using an axle stand to support the box when I did mine, but found a better way using a ratchet strap round the chassis rails & under the converter housing. This holds the front of the box up, and means no messing with the axle stand if you need to raise the car up & down.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Why's the engine coming out?
Click to expand...

I noticed the front crank oil seal appears to be leaking (oil spread around and no apparent "run" from anywhere above. Also, water pump has minute amount of movement when I checked.

That and it'll be easier to rebuild the engine on the bench.

For those who've dropped an engine in before, what should I leave off to make it simple?

I am hoping to at least attach the coil pack brackets to the engine because that alone is a MASSIVE pain in the ass :confused:
 
Leave the inlet manifold & attached stuff off. Makes it easier to access the bell-housing bolts. Then fit manifold, coils, etc afterwards.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Told you he’d have engine out. Minute he said he had to sell it
Gotta love Doo :D
Click to expand...

Been chasing the misfire for probably a year. It started off miniscule, but I knew there was an issue and it was getting worse! I "had" to find it and fix it. Besides, I couldn't possibly sell it to someone, knowing there was a problem, I'm not like that! :eek:

It was highly likely there from the second I bought it. Did I mention the original owner got the new engine dropped in then overheated it going up the steepest hill in the world with a laden trailer on back. Turned out to be the AC condenser was choked... He covered 2k miles then parked up. I thought it was coz his father passed so he took over running the farm and had access to all the vehicles on there. But now it's looking likely it was because the HG may have started degrading :rolleyes:

I'll never know, but I wish I'd had that info a ways back o_O

Still, it is what it is and I'll fix it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Freelander 2 (LR2) Engine Removal Sequence
Replies
1
Views
480
fashratty
F
J
Defender 300 Tdi Engine Swap
Replies
4
Views
316
jer_300Tdi_90
J
Tempus
No power when pulling away.
2 3
Replies
47
Views
3K
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
Graculus
L405 Engine oil leak / fumes in cabin
Replies
7
Views
373
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
MrGorsky
P38A Torque converter came out with engine.....
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
Ratae
R
Back
Top