Engine ooot...

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So today, my pal showed up and helped.

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This happened with the bonnet still attached :cool:

Good news is, the flexi plate is still in one piece :)

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No leak from the rear crank shaft seal :cool:

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Shame can'r be said for the front crank seal :rolleyes:

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22k miles o_O


Plenty room in the garage for the tools, bike, engine crane (in front of the bike...) and engine :cool:

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Started cleaning the muck off the lump....
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And when the engine is all done and refitted, the cardboard box on the heater is the VERY expensive head gasket set. And I am pointing at the superb new head lining for the roof. Champagne colour which will be gorgeous :)

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Yes I know I am pointing vigorously at the big black roll, but the box has all the gaskets....

So, it's all fun and games. What fun I'll have replacing the front crank oil seal :rolleyes:
 
Check the condition of the area of the pulley where the seal seals. If very worn or pitted you might need a replacement pulley or consider a speedisleeve.
The one on my RRC had a groove worn into it so a new seal wasn't going to do much.
 
Ratae said:
Check the condition of the area of the pulley where the seal seals. If very worn or pitted you might need a replacement pulley or consider a speedisleeve.
The one on my RRC had a groove worn into it so a new seal wasn't going to do much.
Click to expand...

Why would it wear after only 22k miles though?

My guess is, after the car sat for 5yrs the seal had dried out a bit so with the last 4yrs of use it's been weeping.

However, I'll take on board what you suggest and have a good look around. I'll take plenty photo's :cool:
 
Doo said:
Been chasing the misfire for probably a year. It started off miniscule, but I knew there was an issue and it was getting worse! I "had" to find it and fix it. Besides, I couldn't possibly sell it to someone, knowing there was a problem, I'm not like that! :eek:

It was highly likely there from the second I bought it. Did I mention the original owner got the new engine dropped in then overheated it going up the steepest hill in the world with a laden trailer on back. Turned out to be the AC condenser was choked... He covered 2k miles then parked up. I thought it was coz his father passed so he took over running the farm and had access to all the vehicles on there. But now it's looking likely it was because the HG may have started degrading :rolleyes:

I'll never know, but I wish I'd had that info a ways back o_O

Still, it is what it is and I'll fix it.
Click to expand...

I remember the new engine part. That's why we all discounted head gasket. I wonder what the new engine actually was.
 
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A typical RPI lump if it's leaking after 22k.

Or the chap you bought it off was telling porkies. :confused::rolleyes:

I'd recommend an ARP stud kit to replace the stretch bolts. :)
 
Henry_b said:
A typical RPI lump if it's leaking after 22k.

Or the chap you bought it off was telling porkies. :confused::rolleyes:

I'd recommend an ARP stud kit to replace the stretch bolts. :)
Click to expand...

Too late, I already got the bolts in the kit.

The original owner roasted it going up a steeeeep hill while pulling a heavily laden trailer o_O

I only learned this a couple of weeks ago :rolleyes:

So he roasted it, laid it up after doing 2k miles, whereupon it sat for 5 years under a tree.

Anyway, after the hilarity of finding two seriously sneaky hidden bolts (the two at the top were bad enough, but the ones down either side from them were like trying to find a needle in a haystack :mad:) and the hassle of trying to undo them, I have decided to invest in a cordless 3/8 ratchet. Got my eye on a Milwaukee job
MILWAUKEE M12 IR-201B 12V 2.0AH LI-ION REDLITHIUM CORDLESS IMPACT RATCHET

It's quite expensive at £180, but the others are 10v or thereabout, this one seems better at 12v 2.0ah. Unless anyone can tell me better ;)

I won't be going for a Snap On, because although they are reasonably good, I feel you are paying for a name.
 
Doo said:
Too late, I already got the bolts in the kit.

The original owner roasted it going up a steeeeep hill while pulling a heavily laden trailer o_O

I only learned this a couple of weeks ago :rolleyes:

So he roasted it, laid it up after doing 2k miles, whereupon it sat for 5 years under a tree.

Anyway, after the hilarity of finding two seriously sneaky hidden bolts (the two at the top were bad enough, but the ones down either side from them were like trying to find a needle in a haystack :mad:) and the hassle of trying to undo them, I have decided to invest in a cordless 3/8 ratchet. Got my eye on a Milwaukee job
MILWAUKEE M12 IR-201B 12V 2.0AH LI-ION REDLITHIUM CORDLESS IMPACT RATCHET

It's quite expensive at £180, but the others are 10v or thereabout, this one seems better at 12v 2.0ah. Unless anyone can tell me better ;)

I won't be going for a Snap On, because although they are reasonably good, I feel you are paying for a name.
Click to expand...

Yh.

The problem with cooking a RV8 is you 9/10 times end up pulling a thread out the block when tightening.

you negate this with studs
 
Doo said:
Too late, I already got the bolts in the kit.

The original owner roasted it going up a steeeeep hill while pulling a heavily laden trailer o_O

I only learned this a couple of weeks ago :rolleyes:

So he roasted it, laid it up after doing 2k miles, whereupon it sat for 5 years under a tree.

Anyway, after the hilarity of finding two seriously sneaky hidden bolts (the two at the top were bad enough, but the ones down either side from them were like trying to find a needle in a haystack :mad:) and the hassle of trying to undo them, I have decided to invest in a cordless 3/8 ratchet. Got my eye on a Milwaukee job
MILWAUKEE M12 IR-201B 12V 2.0AH LI-ION REDLITHIUM CORDLESS IMPACT RATCHET

It's quite expensive at £180, but the others are 10v or thereabout, this one seems better at 12v 2.0ah. Unless anyone can tell me better ;)

I won't be going for a Snap On, because although they are reasonably good, I feel you are paying for a name.
Click to expand...

I seem to recall using a breaker bar when doing MrGorsky's head and one or two of my sockets were trashed in the process.
 
Doo said:
Too late, I already got the bolts in the kit.

The original owner roasted it going up a steeeeep hill while pulling a heavily laden trailer o_O

I only learned this a couple of weeks ago :rolleyes:

So he roasted it, laid it up after doing 2k miles, whereupon it sat for 5 years under a tree.

Anyway, after the hilarity of finding two seriously sneaky hidden bolts (the two at the top were bad enough, but the ones down either side from them were like trying to find a needle in a haystack :mad:) and the hassle of trying to undo them, I have decided to invest in a cordless 3/8 ratchet. Got my eye on a Milwaukee job
MILWAUKEE M12 IR-201B 12V 2.0AH LI-ION REDLITHIUM CORDLESS IMPACT RATCHET

It's quite expensive at £180, but the others are 10v or thereabout, this one seems better at 12v 2.0ah. Unless anyone can tell me better ;)

I won't be going for a Snap On, because although they are reasonably good, I feel you are paying for a name.
Click to expand...
We bought a kielder one from SGS engineering. 18v 4ah. 2 batteries and a torch. Excellent piece of kit.
I'd had a 4ft breaker bar on a bolt and couldn't shift it. 2 seconds with the kielder and it was off.
 
So... Should I perhaps go for studs and sell the head bolts?

I want this engine to be the best it can be.

And the Milwaukee didn't happen. A mate got me a Sealy with 2 batteries, charger and a bag for a really good price. It'll be here Friday hopefully... And we're away for 3 days in the caravan on Friday.... It's all happening :eek:
 
Doo said:
I went and purchased some new 3/8 drive sockets today. Tidied out my socket drawer and it's looking decent....

iMr195D.jpg


But where to put the less used sockets :confused:

Here's quarter of them....

DyJmcnW.jpg


First world problems :p
Click to expand...
All my "best" ones are kept in their own cases, my spare ones, special ones, extensions etc, I keep in one of my drawers.
 
The biggest problem with stretch bolts is the inconsistency. A stretch bolt from one supplier may start to stretch at 30 lbft while another from a different manufacturer may not start until 40 lbft. Then there is the amount of elasticity in the bolt once it starts to stretch. A softer bolt will stretch a lot and not apply much pressure while one that is a bit harder will apply far more pressure some of the cheaper stretch bolts have been known to snap before you get the second 90 degree turn on them. At least when you do an ARP stud up to a certain torque you know that the pressure it is exerting is going to be the same every time.
Also the problem with doing stretch bolts up to a certain torque figure is that they stretch so you've no real idea of how much pressure they are putting on the joint face. At least with the studs, you know that what your torque wrench says is what they are done up to. The other advantage is that the thread on the nut end is finer than the 5/8th UNC thread in the block so you've got far more control.
 
2' x 2' piece of reasonably thick ply, a quantity of socket rails of appropriate sizes, and fix to the wall where accessible but not intrusive. You know where they are, but the don't get in the way.
Sorted.
:)
 
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