Engine getting too hot!

The last three times I've taken my '94 Discovery out I've noticed the engine is overheating but when I checked the coolant and oil levels this morning they were fine, what could be the problem?

The three trips have each been 10 miles out, 10 back, mostly dual carriageway.

:flame2:

Radiator/Oil cooler.

Take the fan cover off the top and see what the back of the radiator looks like. Mine looked new from the front, but was 3/4 blown out at the back, effectively no cooling fins at all. New rad for £95 and all sorted.

Radiator fins blocked with ****. Mine got clogged with Salisbury plain mud after a few sessions there. I couldn't believe how much mud I got out of it.

Paul D said:

Radiator/Oil cooler.

Take the fan cover off the top and see what the back of the radiator looks like. Mine looked new from the front, but was 3/4 blown out at the back, effectively no cooling fins at all. New rad for £95 and all sorted.

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I've just been out and had a look at back of radiator and it appears to be fine front and back. What should I be looking for exactly?

Bent and missing fins, mud and/or crap clogging the ways through, salt-like 'deposits'. Check particularly the oil-cooler side, offside, as this is where mine had most problems. Initially mine also looked good, it's only on close inspection that you can see fins missing, hard to tell you what to look for, and I don't have a pic ... but sometimes the rear edge of the fins are intact, and the centre cooling tubes are also OK, just that the connections between tubes and fins is missing, so no heat transfer (cooling) can take place.

If it really does look OK, then time to check the thermostat, water pump, hoses for blockages, radiator for blockages etc etc ...

Kev627 said:

I've just been out and had a look at back of radiator and it appears to be fine front and back. What should I be looking for exactly?

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should be looking for fin damage

also when the engine is hot feel the temp of the top and bottom hose on the rad - if they are about the same then yer rads nots working, if it looks good on the outside then it's probably blocked inside and the water is taking the short route out

disconnect the top and bottom hoses and get yer jet washer in it to flush it through

If the fins are ok & not damaged it could well be an internal blockage Is it a copper /brass rad? . If it is & you dont get it sorted & you want your rad stripping down & unblocking contact me. I will take the tanks off flush & sword the tubes the put it all back together for you.

I've just been out for a short drive (2.5 miles x2) and noticed temp started rising after 1 mile, it stopped when needle was about halfway. I stopped at shop for 10 minutes and when I got back to Disco engine temperature hadn't changed and didn't alter for 2.5 mile return journey. The route was 0.5 mile at 30, 1.5 mile at 60 and remaining half mile at 30.

When I got back I looked under bonnet to see how hot radiator was and where any steam might be. The radiator was cool and the only place any steam was coming from was pulley/unit directly in front of dipstick. Haynes guide not showing name/function of said pulley!

Kev627 said:

I've just been out for a short drive (2.5 miles x2) and noticed temp started rising after 1 mile, it stopped when needle was about halfway. I stopped at shop for 10 minutes and when I got back to Disco engine temperature hadn't changed and didn't alter for 2.5 mile return journey. The route was 0.5 mile at 30, 1.5 mile at 60 and remaining half mile at 30.

When I got back I looked under bonnet to see how hot radiator was and where any steam might be. The radiator was cool and the only place any steam was coming from was pulley/unit directly in front of dipstick. Haynes guide not showing name/function of said pulley!

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I'm assuming this is a TDi motor, not petrol??

It sounds like the water pump to me.

thebiglad said:

I'm assuming this is a TDi motor, not petrol??

It sounds like the water pump to me.

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Yes it's a TDi. Thanks for that, I'll look into it....

I've been quoted £200 for a new water pump and fitting but also included is the replacing of the P Gasket to avoid any problems with that in the future. Is this a particularly bad price from a very good Land Rover specialist?

Is it a possability it could be temp valve

It looks like I'll have to take my Disco into local specialist and ask them to find cause of problem. :drama:

Kev627 said:

I've been quoted £200 for a new water pump and fitting but also included is the replacing of the P Gasket to avoid any problems with that in the future. Is this a particularly bad price from a very good Land Rover specialist?

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where are you?I'll do it for £190!

shocker said:

where are you?I'll do it for £190!

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Actually I was told "it'll be a little under £200".

Have you seen how much a new water pump is? About £20 !!!!!!

Make sure the thermostat is working.

Take it out and slap in a pan of water, and turn on the heat.

It MUST open right up well before the water boils.

A meat thermometer in the water will show you at what temp the stat opens.

Most of them should be well open at a little over 80°C

CharlesY

thebiglad said:

Have you seen how much a new water pump is? About £20 !!!!!!

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Man at garage said a new pump is £50.

Kev627 said:

Man at garage said a new pump is £50.

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If the man at the garage thought you would pay him £100 for a water pump that's what he would have said it would cost. He obviously thinks you are a £50 cheapskate.

CharlesY

The water pump was replaced exactly 12 months ago but I have book Disco in with garage that replaced pump originally to find problem and fix it.