Engine/battery/door!!

Hi there everyone!
Ok here is my problem. I bought a lovely 1997 4.6 lpg converted range rover on Monday night. Drove it home, went like a dream and hasn't started since.

Managed to jump start it on the Tuesday night and once again went fine. Wednesday same thing but this time it would not start even with the jump. I have now disconnected the RF receiver. Also took he battery off and charged it.

Battery now back on the car and replaced the key fob batteries for good measure. Everything on dash ok, no engine immobilised warning or anything but the button I have to press for the immobiliser to turn off wont work, (there is no click) so the engine wont start at all.

Also, since the battery has gone back on the front passenger door wont open or close with the others....

I'm quickly losing faith in this car can anyone help?
Thank you in advance
Typical lady with car troubles!!

What button do you mean for the engine immobiliser?

Usually it's all just done through the keyfob. Do you have an additional alarm system on it?

If you update your profile to show your location you might find someone local to you might be able to offer more assistance.

Does the engine turn over, or is it all completely dead?

Not sure about the passenger door though. Was it a trade or private sale?

Guy

Hi,

The guy I bought it off said that when I turn the key to II to press the unlock button on the keyfob, something then clicks and the car will start, I don't think it was an extra one.

The car just wont turn over at all but the air suspension is working and the dash is alight with colours! (no warning messages though) and it's a new battery.

Any help?!!

lady with car troubles :o) xx said:

Hi,

The guy I bought it off said that when I turn the key to II to press the unlock button on the keyfob, something then clicks and the car will start, I don't think it was an extra one.

The car just wont turn over at all but the air suspension is working and the dash is alight with colours! (no warning messages though) and it's a new battery.

Any help?!!

Click to expand...

Doesn't sound right. Have you got a standard Land Rover key fob? Usually, you just unlock the car with the fob to disable the alarm and the immobiliser is dealt with by the key being in the ignition. It's possible that the key has got out of sync with the car, but I thought it was suppsoed to sort itself out as soon as you inserted it.

Not sure what happens when it's immobilised, but I think it will at least turn over and the message centre will say that the engine is immobilised.

If you took the battery off to charge it, you might have upset the immobiliser though. Did you use the proper battery removal method? If not, you may need to enter your EKA code via the drivers door doorlock.

Did you get the owners manual with the car? I think the process is described in there, although apparently it's a little confusing. If you do a search on here for EKA then you should find out the correct way to do it.

I'm confused though, why the message centre isn't telling you anything.

Also, I'm a bit confused about what the previous owner told you about the immobiliser technique. Have you tried contacting him?

Hopefully someone who actually knows what they're talking about will be along shortly to help!

Guy

Is the message centre saying anything? It should at least say the key is in the lock if you turn on then off, shouldn`t it? (Just to check it`s not blank and maybe not illuminated or similar). I would check that on mine but it`s not here at mo` so hope someone can confirm that.

gtland said:

Is the message centre saying anything? It should at least say the key is in the lock if you turn on then off, shouldn`t it? (Just to check it`s not blank and maybe not illuminated or similar). I would check that on mine but it`s not here at mo` so hope someone can confirm that.

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The message centre should at least display "Ignition Key In" If it does not do that then maybe the illumination has gone.

ok its a gems, and there for will not say anything, your car has lost its code, you need the help of grumpy irishrover. pm him he can and will help you..

Hi, I cant find grumpy irishrover? how do I get in contact with him? (have tried the directory with no luck!)

John is just "irishrover" NOT "Grumpy" Irishrover .... We call him grumpy coz he the EXACT OPPOSITE

THE NICEST GUY You'd ever wish to meet!!!!

Sorry John I'm done with the crawlin now ....................


I just sent him a PM for ya ... he will be in touch ASAP ....He NEVER LETS DOWN ....EVER!!!!


Keith

Hahaha, thank you everyone for trying to help me, am slowly losing the will to even look at the car now!

It's:behindsofa: ME !!!

Does the "Check Engine" light come on when you switch the ignition on ?..without it, the engine will not start or turn over.
Is there a card with the "EKA Code" with a four digit number on it, e.g. 1234 that came with the car or did the seller give you this code?
Are you getting any "Bleeps" and a message on the display when you put the key in the ignition or try to start the engine?

Heeelllooo!

Apparently you are the man that can fix my car! (please be that man lol)
Ok, we dont get a "check engine" come up etc and I have done the EKA thing (several times).
Everything seems to be working fine, it tells me the ignition key is in but when you turn it there is nothing, although when you turn the key something that sounds like a relay click can be heard from under the drivers seat. Hubby has removed the aerial from the RF transmitter because it was draining the battery really fast.......
Also, don't know if this has any baring but since the battery was taken off to be charged the front passenger door lock will not work with the others...

The fact that you are not getting the "Check Engine" light on when you turn on the ignition points me towards the engine ecu not synchronising with the main electronic control module (BECM) which is under the driver's seat.
You need to get someone with diagnostics to read and clear the problem. There are people on here who have the equipment who may be willing to do it who are more local to you than me. If you don't have any luck..send me a PM.
P38's are not too keen on flat batteries

:behindsofa:

Another quick question......when you enter the EKA code does the drivers side flasher side repeater flash with each turn of the key?

lady with car troubles :o) xx said:

am slowly losing the will to even look at the car now!

Click to expand...

Welcome to the world of P38 ownership!!

Guy

Yes this light does flash when the EKA is done but when the last one is done only the drivers door opens not all of them (I thought that all of them should open?!)

Should I start to cry now or later?!

You are not the first...and won't be the last to be gutted by P38 problems.
I have been where you are now, hence the investment in the diagnostic system I have, plus being a member of the University of Life and self survival!!
Nothing on the P38 is impossible to sort out..it just takes time and cash. If you are a person without patience, the car will drive you mad!!
First criteria with the P38 is a good battery and charging system. As all of the electrics are controlled by early electronics and computerisation..dated by todays standards, they are very tempremental with regard to extremes of voltage, especially the becm (The main brain of the system), which has a tendency now and again to roll up in a ball and play it safe by locking itself in a lockout state, this does not happen to every becm but quite a few do it. Another thing that does happen is the "Rolling Code" between the becm and engine ecu can become corrupted and the "handshake" between the two lost.
There is every chance that this is the case with yours. The fact that you have disconnected the RF receiver at the back of the car hints that you are suspicious that spurious RF signals are keeping the becm awake and this is the cause of your battery going flat.
You need to get someone with diagnostics, preferably with the module to access the Becm CPU to check it out.The becm will have to be removed from the car to do this. There are a few guys on here besides myself who have this software and are based in the UK, Rick the Pick and Andy R come to mind and there may be others also.
If you do not have any luck, send me a PM.

I'm not miserable yet as it's Sunday and after mowing the lawn it's time for some :beer2::beer2::beer2::hysterically_laughi

Things could change though!!!

If you disconnected the RF receiver, did you disconnect the single wire which is the aerial or the other connector with I think 3 wires? If you disconnected the 3 wire plug it will confuse the BECM. You should only disconnect the aerial wire.

Stupid question, but are you in Park?