Electroplating without electrickery...

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Stretch

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,600
Location
Holland
G'day folks,

As part of my rebuild project => https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/1965-series-2a-station-wagon-in-holland.298002/ <= I've been finding ways to cope with the boredom of cleaning, derusting and painting.

If you've been following the thread you might have noticed that I zoom off onto tangents in search of something a bit whacky to do. One of these things is actually showing some signs of success!

#####

Story so far - took apart a dynamo to find all the parts are rusty

1965-series-2a-station-wagon-dynamo-commutator-end-repairs1-jpg.106487


1965-series-2a-station-wagon-dynamo-commutator-end-repairs2-jpg.106488


1965-series-2a-station-wagon-dynamo-commutator-end-repairs4-jpg.106489


1965-series-2a-station-wagon-dynamo-commutator-end-repairs5-jpg.106490


Now I couldn't find replacement parts so I figured I might be able to derust (again) and then find some way of preserving what I have.

The obvious thing to do is to go buy an electro-plating kit from Frosts (for example) and be done with it. However, I'm essentially a diesel owner (!) so a cheaper solution needed to be found.

I stumbled on a simple "old school" electroplating technique on a model building forum and thought "I'll give that a go"...

Here's what I did (I've left in the mistakes that were made so you don't have to go through them is you want to try this yourself)

Step 1

Wire brush off all the rust from the little contacts - pain in the arse - used pliers to hold parts and save fingers (!)

(This needs to be done a lot better than I did at first - see below)

Step 2

Believe seemingly daft / strange idea on model building forum about using old skool (bitch'n') electroplating techniques

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=2834

Assemble products needed

1X old margarine tub
1X bottle of iodine (apparently - well - according to the thread above this is hard to get hold of so he went through a process of heating vinegar and dissolving iodine impregnated salt because junkies do something with iodine - 'uck knows what - but hey in Holland I had no trouble getting hold of the stuff so read what you will into that)
1X bottle of vinegar (I'm using basic "cleaning" vinegar)
Some copper (this might turn out to be a problem because whilst I bought some copper pipe saddles and paid a price much more than I expected to pay for "copper" it doesn't necessarily mean I have bought copper - this could be some copperique {fake copper introduced by a baby boomer capitalist society fixated on extorting as much money out of people as possible})

copper-electroplating-trial2-jpg.106496


Step 3

Whack it all in the margarine tub and give it a go

copper-electroplating-trial1-jpg.106497


#########

If I end up with copper(ique) coated electrical terminals then I'll be a happy chap - I can then make the connections and spray the parts that won't be touching anything with a varnish to help them along too. (If I just remove the rust the parts will corrode really quickly and repairing the dynamo will be a waste of effort)

According to the thread on the model building forum I should see an effect by tomorrow morning. My slapdash whack in a bit of this and that approach might not be quite right so it could be a mega failure.

{It was a mega failure at first - see below}

I forgot to mention that this mixture apparently gives off hydrogen gas - so use in a well ventilated area
 
The initial results weren't brilliant
Didn't work.

http://Didn't work. 1965 series 2a station wagon ****ing about with electroplating1.JPG Observations:- 1) The steel has gotten grottier as it does when it is being "de-rusted" in vinegar (I don't believe in the de-rusting abilities of vinegar - same as molasses it only blackens the oxidisation) 2) I thought the copper(ique) stuff might have a coating of some sort or other on it to make it look shiny and new in the packet - not sure if that's the case as one of these parts actually turned black => 1965 series 2a station wagon ****ing about with electroplating2.JPG So I reckon summit's up! 3) The bit of copper(ique) that turned black was nearest to a steel bit 4) Whilst it was evident that summit was 'appening at the start of the experiment as bubbles formed on the surface of the steel parts (not copper(ique)) it seemed dead this morning. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachm...***ing-about-with-electroplating1-jpg.106561/ [/IMG]

Observations:-

1) The steel has gotten grottier as it does when it is being "de-rusted" in vinegar (I don't believe in the de-rusting abilities of vinegar - same as molasses it only blackens the oxidisation)

2) I thought the copper(ique) stuff might have a coating of some sort or other on it to make it look shiny and new in the packet - not sure if that's the case as one of these parts actually turned black =>

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachm...***ing-about-with-electroplating2-jpg.106562/

So I reckon summit's up!

3) The bit of copper(ique) that turned black was nearest to a steel bit

4) Whilst it was evident that summit was 'appening at the start of the experiment as bubbles formed on the surface of the steel parts (not copper(ique)) it seemed dead this morning.
 
This bloody website is ****ing me off - I can't get the linked pictures to work

Bear with me
 
Right OK try it a different way

After cleaning the parts better than before in a vibratory tumbler and then wire brushing

1965 series 2a station wagon cleaning dynamo parts for electroplating.JPG


I then redid the experiment with some clean vinegar and a little bit of the iodine and a bit of cut up copper / brass(?) gasket from a series 2 differential and got the following results this morning =>

1965-series-2a-station-wagon-electroplating-results1-jpg.110267


1965-series-2a-station-wagon-electroplating-results2-jpg.110268


So I reckon one more night and I'll finally have some copper or brass (?) plated parts for my dynamo
 
I'll come back and fix posts #2 and #3 some other time once I've calmed down after my "Microsoft" experience...

...sodding computers need to start doing what they are ****ing told - not what they ****ing feel like doing...
 
I know you dont want to use power, but if you did...

you could use electrolysis to, first, remove the rust, and then, in a second bath, plate with copper.

Ive never done the plating bit at home, but i have a 205ltr drum at home filled with electrolyte, that i dump rusty parts into - indeed, theres a defender bumper in it right now, that i forgot to check on this morning.

The beauty of electrolysis for de-rusting (over acid) is that it stops when its done the rust, rather than carrying on to the good metal.
 
I believe this is a form of electrolysis - dissimilar metals and all that.

There are definitely benefits to using power but it is an expensive process. This is just costing a bit of vinegar and some iodine...

...there are, however, some serious downsides to doing it this way - time taken and cleanliness being the main troubles.

(And no I still haven't calmed down enough to tackle Microsoft yet!)
 
Expensive?

I run about 6 amps at 10volts, so about 60watts. 20 hrs would be 1.2kwh of power, or, in money, less than 20pence.

The PSU was out of a skip, by they are not too much if you do have to buy.

But, really, I'm not saying this to argue was the you at all - I battled with different derusting methods for years before finally getting round to trying electrolysis, and I wished I had done it so much sooner - its really that easy and effective that I won't bother with wire wheels etc any more on anything that I can fit in a tank!

Give it a go, if only for a test. : )
 
What you're experiencing is a chemical process sometimes referred to as "Galvanic plating" which for want of a better explanation is the migration of material from one piece of metal to another by using a natural or inadvertent electric properties. A classic example of this effect is the fitting of a sacrificial anode on the outside of the hull of a boat to prevent the loss of material from more critical parts such as bronze or aluminium alloy propellers, or even iron and steel used in the manufacture of ships.
Electro-plating and electrolysis would more normally imply the deliberate application of an electric current in order to induce a more rapid and controllable deposition of the plating.
 
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