P38A Electronic Air Suspension locked

Hi

My air suspension gave up a week ago and is now on the stops. I managed to get one of the cable kits and discs from ebay but cannot work out how to reset or what all the faults are.

When I connect up it comes up with all the mumbo jumbo below. In addition the pump does not run.
It does not unlock the fault warning on the dash.
What am I doing wrong?

: F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : Cannot lower FR
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden

Poor communications - need to get a steady green idle before doing anything.

im waiting on a lead my normal one cant get good idle either

+1 for the poor communication are you using a USB adapter thus could be your problem it could be the socket under the dash loose wire or corrosion.

What happened that it stopped working? I've had a few issues recently to get mine working

Location?

Grrrrrr said:

Location?

Click to expand...

I hate it when member don't tell us were they are.

Sorry about not giving my location. I am between Swaffham and Dereham in Norfolk.

I did a bit of prodding around yesterday and discovered no air coming from the pump.

Opened it up to find the piston seal was totally gone.
Luckily I have a seal kit however the reality of getting the ring of the top of the piston is nothing like the videos which make it look easy. Have now ordered a piston complete with new seal.

However I suspect once fitted the eas computer will be my next problem.

Oldpilot said:

Sorry about not giving my location. I am between Swaffham and Dereham in Norfolk.

I did a bit of prodding around yesterday and discovered no air coming from the pump.

Opened it up to find the piston seal was totally gone.
Luckily I have a seal kit however the reality of getting the ring of the top of the piston is nothing like the videos which make it look easy. Have now ordered a piston complete with new seal.

However I suspect once fitted the eas computer will be my next problem.

Click to expand...

It is easy, use a sharp flat screwdriver blade, insert it and go round the ring and easy it off bit by bit. When you fit new seal make sure ring is pushed on and grips seal properly all the way around. Then put four equally spaced pop marks in alloy piston top just inside ring to lock it on. To replace cylinder, offer it to piston at 45 degrees work seal into it then twist upright.

I tried everything to move that ring yesterday to no avail. Must have spent three hours on it and despite looking at the video seveal times the ring was not budging. Now I have ordered a piston complete with seal fitted already for £29.00. Once I get it all together I know the the next issue is going to be trying to get the fault removed from the dash so the car pumps up.

Oldpilot said:

I tried everything to move that ring yesterday to no avail. Must have spent three hours on it and despite looking at the video seveal times the ring was not budging. Now I have ordered a piston complete with seal fitted already for £29.00. Once I get it all together I know the the next issue is going to be trying to get the fault removed from the dash so the car pumps up.

Click to expand...

It false economy to replace the piston seal and not replace the cylinder.

I have a new cylinder kit purchased with the seal kit but could not fit the seal as the ring refused to budge.

Luckily I found a restored piston complete with new seal on ebay restored by a small engineering company.

Oldpilot said:

I have a new cylinder kit purchased with the seal kit but could not fit the seal as the ring refused to budge.

Luckily I found a restored piston complete with new seal on ebay restored by a small engineering company.

Click to expand...

I use a Stanley knife blade. Cut off all the seal round the edge (careful not to nick the metal). Then start to cut in with the blade letting the fragments fall out. Work round in circles and eventually with a little wriggling it eases off. Could be the PO has used Loctite or similar on it. I have heard people saying to do it. I never have and it has never come off.

I removed the seal as you suggested but despite the metal being clean around the circumference nothing would budge that ring. I even tried heating it up to no avail.

Oldpilot said:

I removed the seal as you suggested but despite the metal being clean around the circumference nothing would budge that ring. I even tried heating it up to no avail.

Click to expand...

Even running the knife round and round in the gap? If you can get a tiny gap and get a small screwdriver it should lift off as Wammers suggested. If not then I think someone has glued it.

Welcome to post it down and I'll have a go?

I checked LZIR map but only diag near you is for a Disco2 near Attleborough. https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?hl=en&authuser=0&mid=zWbgnomp0Rhg.kLVE2H61D3z4

Many thank for the help. I have ordered the reconditioned piston now but happy to post this one to anyone who wants it.

After hours of trying I was faced with not removing the ring so ordered a piston complete with a new ring yesterday.

I need to get mobile again so it seemed the easiest solution.

What is LZIR ?

Lead arrived today good coms on the eas software I can cycle the pump on/off read heights etc. Good RX and tx but it won't unlock iv read the fault codes cleared them all tried again to unlock but no luck it did drop to bump stops tho and now has hard fault 35 mph on the dash.

Am I missing something ??? Or is it time to refurb the eas block ???

fault codes, looks like im rebuilding my eas block come to think of it, it did creak and groan a fair bit when i got out the car and locked it the valve block i mean as it levvelled its self on the driveway

3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed

biketeacherdave said:

fault codes, looks like im rebuilding my eas block come to think of it, it did creak and groan a fair bit when i got out the car and locked it the valve block i mean as it levvelled its self on the driveway

3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
0 : FL valve stuck closed
1 : FR valve stuck closed
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed

Click to expand...

They are false readings, you cannot have a valve stuck open and closed at the same time. Valves stuck open or closed simply mean that the suspension has not moved in a certain time span. Clear the faults and disconnect the EAS unlock properly.

OK Mr wammers I'm sure I disconnected properly I'll have another go, several if needed been trying this for an hour now

well im defo closing the programe down correctly followed the guide to the letter a dozen times now and no luck im currently charging an old laptop with a serial port on it incase its a prolem with the adapter lead suplied