P38A Electrickery drain,where am I going wrong?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
brianp38dse said:
Everything is fixable, its just finding what to fix is the pain in the backside.
Click to expand...

What are you saying? It's clearly f*cked. Wammers said so. The thingamajig has ostled the fartwark completely snargling the gruntlebot. We'd be doing him a favour. Of course, quite a drive up there. Hardly worth my time really unless he throws the E-type in as a sweetner ...
 
I thought wammers said it was only partially farkled, and an Italian tune-up and 2 quarts of rubber cement in the fuel tank would sort it out pronto.
 
Bit of an update, when I reconnected the battery the o/s /r door latch clicked as if locking. I left the car unlocked by mistake , went out today ,five days later and it started .So, left it unlocked and will check in a week's time. Could it be a faulty door latch? Over to the electrickery wizards.
 
I had this on mine, one of the door mechanism on the rear had locked as normal and refused to unlock sending the bus immobilised. After jump starting the lock with a lawnmower battery all was good. I think you may be onto something;)
 
Mark Piercy said:
I had this on mine, one of the door mechanism on the rear had locked as normal and refused to unlock sending the bus immobilised. After jump starting the lock with a lawnmower battery all was good. I think you may be onto something;)
Click to expand...
I hope so mate, I think @DanClarke mentioned he thought one of his locks was suspect .Or am I thinking about@holidaychicken because he definitely is;):D
 
@tomcat59alan Yup, 'twas me indeed. I think I have either a nadgered switch pack in the drivers door, or the loom-connector is not fully home.
I get ghost doorlock cycles, no EKA acknowledgements and I can drop the suspension sometimes with the drivers door ajar.
All of these are (I think) symptoms of the need for a new switchpack (which I have). Just not got round to testing for the fault definitively, or fitting it yet.
 
DanClarke said:
@tomcat59alan Yup, 'twas me indeed. I think I have either a nadgered switch pack in the drivers door, or the loom-connector is not fully home.
I get ghost doorlock cycles, no EKA acknowledgements and I can drop the suspension sometimes with the drivers door ajar.
All of these are (I think) symptoms of the need for a new switchpack (which I have). Just not got round to testing for the fault definitively, or fitting it yet.
Click to expand...
Just got one rear door lock cycle when reconnecting the battery. Can enter the EKA code, dont know about dropping the suspension with the door open. Is the rear lock operated by the drivers door latch microswitches or through the becm is the question ?
 
The tailgate lock power is switched thru the drivers doorlock switches (a reason why they burn out?) but I think the rear-doors are separately switched by the BeCM on receiving an "unlock" command from a valid drivers-door key opening or a valid RF remote.
 
DanClarke said:
@tomcat59alan Yup, 'twas me indeed. I think I have either a nadgered switch pack in the drivers door, or the loom-connector is not fully home.
I get ghost doorlock cycles, no EKA acknowledgements and I can drop the suspension sometimes with the drivers door ajar.
All of these are (I think) symptoms of the need for a new switchpack (which I have). Just not got round to testing for the fault definitively, or fitting it yet.
Click to expand...

The door ajar switch is inside the lock actuator.

@tomcat59alan : Marty did a lock tests troubleshooting guide somewhere. Not sure if it made it into the How To. I think Brian has a copy.
 
Thanks peeps, I checked the drivers door lock a while back all ok. As I said its just the o/s/r that seems to lock itself when the battery is reconnected.I've left it unlocked at the mo, going to leave it a week and if it starts then, unless Grrrrrrs been up and nicked it.:eek::D
 
tomcat59alan said:
Thanks peeps, I checked the drivers door lock a while back all ok. As I said its just the o/s/r that seems to lock itself when the battery is reconnected.I've left it unlocked at the mo, going to leave it a week and if it starts then, unless Grrrrrrs been up and nicked it.:eek::D
Click to expand...

Could be me; could be Brian; or being Liverpool it could be one of about half a million suspects.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
P38A What can kill a battery?
2
Replies
33
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
Blob
L322 (Not your usual) battery drain
Replies
7
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
Blob
L322 Fixed (Sort of) - Every single module in fault. Where to start?
3 4 5
Replies
81
Views
7K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
B
Discovery 4 2015 auxiliary battery Question
Replies
9
Views
647
Graculus
Graculus
Walshie1987
L322 Battery Drain - 2 nights and dead, tried everything I can think off....
Replies
16
Views
2K
rich28uk
rich28uk
Back
Top