Electric window regulator fix.

Sorry for the lack of photos, it was cold, wet and dark when I did this one.

Land Rover need a severe kick in the nads for deciding that the crescent shaped cog on the window regulator would stay attached with three small spot welds. At 1.30am the other night these welds did what they do best and failed, resulting in a window that was stuck firmly in the open position.

After removing the regulator mechanism I called Craddocks and they had three new ones in stock at about the 30 quid mark including VAT. When I picked up the regulator to take over to them I noticed these three welds and the scrooge in me took over and I decided to try to fix it rather than waste thirty beer tokens.

Using the welds as the guide I centre punched them and drilled 6mm holes in the same places. The two parts were then bolted together using pan headed machine screws. The gap between the crescent gear and the motor is small so a quick linish was applied to the heads.

Throw the regulator back in and hey presto, fixed forever

I will be doing the other one shortly to pre empt failure.

my drivers window decided to stop working the other day, Ill deffo be checking it soon, when you do the other can we have pics to copy please?

cheers

Nice one firepower!! I had the exact same with my D2, although I took out the regulator after ordering the new one, fixed the old one by welding it, never thought about drilling it out, but next free day I have, job is getting done !!!

Nice one firepower I like the idea of saving the old beer tokens, my problem is the passenger front electric window has an extremely jerky movement down which I didn't risk more than a couple of inches, at this point I was able to close the window. What I'm not sure about is the root cause? is it a dodgy window motor gear, is the quadrant you descrbe coming apart or, is the glass coming free from the channel that holds it to the mechanisim? best I have a beer to get the old grey matter working???

It's not impossable to repair the regulator with nuts & bolts or rivets but if the metal work has twisted then it may be better to replace the whole item, as I did 10 years ago after I tried to open a frozen window and the regulator broke with a loud bang.
Back then I paid £64+vat at my local main LR dealer for a replacement.

discool said:

It's not impossable to repair the regulator with nuts & bolts or rivets but if the metal work has twisted then it may be better to replace the whole item, as I did 10 years ago after I tried to open a frozen window and the regulator broke with a loud bang.
Back then I paid £64+vat at my local main LR dealer for a replacement.

Click to expand...

£64

If you want a laugh you should look at gaylander windows, what a nightmare.

So what is the outcome here? My 300TDI drivers window packed up the other day after my wife used it. It is easy to blame her but I cannot figure out what is going on. Fuses and switches OK, only +/- 5.5 volts on motor connector. i'm getting another control unit to see if its that but all the info I can find talks about rear windows, it's only the one window not working. So where does the power go after the switch and before the motor, the ecu?

To a rear window switch, look in your Haynes manual for the wiring diagram.