EGR

mudinuri · Jul 7, 2016

I"ve just read the threads on EGR BALNKING MOD. What I want to know is, Will doing this improve my MPG. I"m desperate to improve the rubbish 20/25 MPG I"m getting from my 2003 Serengeti TD4 AUTO and will try anything. I "ve already been told to check the MAF but I"m not really sure how to do that, so any help or advice would be appreciated.
Cheers

Coffeemonster · Jul 7, 2016

If you don't know how to do it (and I don't either) the answer is simple - take it to someone who does - like a mechanic! When did you last get it serviced?

hd3 · Jul 7, 2016

What I want to know is, Will doing this improve my MPG.

possibly ..
i gained 3 mpg after getting rid of the egr ..
however .. mine's a manual-box

allowing exhaust gas into the fuel air mix .. can't make for very efficient combustion

in any case .. removing the egr will give somewhat better response to the go-pedal
and the egr assembly .. being absent .. won't clog up 'n cause shyte running 'n worse mpg

doing the intake mod. ( see link in sig. below ) ...
makes the engine even more responsive to the go-pedal ..
'n that applies to a stock (not-tuned) td4 / m47r. as well .

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hd3 · Jul 7, 2016

I "ve already been told to check the MAF but I"m not really sure how to do that

the standard routine be .. to disconnect the maf sensor

as that makes the ecu use its' own maf sensor mapping
which makes running ok ..
but tends to overfuel at mid / high rpm .. i.e. worse mpg

( the air-filter housing is removed .. and the maf sensor and its' plug
( be behind the oil filler cap area .. and inline with the air-filter ..

" You can get a good idea if the maf is the problem by simply disconnecting it and going for a drive. The performance will be much better if the maf is out of spec. .. .. .. .. "
( from .. http://tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75maf.htm )
much info regarding the td4's maf sensor on that link

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Nodge68 · Jul 7, 2016

There's something wrong if you are only getting low 20s MPG. I get high 20s in my SE auto.
Things to check are:
MAF as already said.

EGR will clog up the inlet manifold, leading to poor performance and MPG.

Make sure the temperature needle sits in the mid point of the gauge. If it doesn't get to the mid point, the thermostat is stuck open. This really affects fuel consumption figures hard.

It might be worth putting a decent fuel system cleaner through it too. I put a good dose of cleaner in every month.

mudinuri · Jul 8, 2016

Coffeemonster said:
If you don't know how to do it (and I don't either) the answer is simple - take it to someone who does - like a mechanic! When did you last get it serviced?

Thanks, but you are stating the obvious, unfortunately some owners of cars, because of financial restrictions cannot afford to take their cars to a Garage/Mechanic and that"s why they ask other owners of the same vehicles for their "Constructive advice" I had the Engine Oil /Filter changed, the Automatic Gearbox and Transfer box oil changed in June 2016.

mudinuri · Jul 8, 2016

Nodge68 said:
There's something wrong if you are only getting low 20s MPG. I get high 20s in my SE auto.
Things to check are:
MAF as already said.

EGR will clog up the inlet manifold, leading to poor performance and MPG.

Make sure the temperature needle sits in the mid point of the gauge. If it doesn't get to the mid point, the thermostat is stuck open. This really affects fuel consumption figures hard.

It might be worth putting a decent fuel system cleaner through it too. I put a good dose of cleaner in every month.

Tonyj66 · Jul 8, 2016

Regardless of some of the doubt about EGR blanking, it is most definitely your first step. Mine gained about 3-4 miles extra to the gallon when it was replaced, and engine response was better as well.

Be wary about having your MAF sensor checked, when i had problems with my old TD4 I had a garage check the sensor, he said that it was showing very irregular readings and therefore was knackered, It wasn't though, it was in fact an injector not working correctly that caused the irregularity. This isn't to say you shouldn't replace the MAF.

saxavordian · Jul 8, 2016

Would a shot of Diesel Redex help first with cleaning out the clad before adapting EGR.

Nodge68 · Jul 8, 2016

saxavordian said:
Would a shot of Diesel Redex help first with cleaning out the clad before adapting EGR.

The short answer is no.
The only really affective way to clean the mess caused by exhaust gas recirculation is to physically remove the inlet manifold and use a powerful cleaner to remove the thick goo.

mudinuri · Jul 8, 2016

Hi Nodge 68
Went for a run in my TD4 today and the temperature guage didn"t get over 1/4 on the dial, but yesterday I was in a slow moving queue for half an hour and it did creep up to just over 1/2. Does that mean my Thermostat is knackered because I"ve looked in the Haynes manual and it sounds like one hell of a job to change it.

Nodge68 · Jul 8, 2016

Ok so half of the problem is the thermostat. It not letting the engine reach running temperature is costing over 5Mpg, mine was. My stat was the keeping the engine below 70°C so I fitted a Renault 5 stat in the top hose. It wasn't easy but was easier than doing the proper thermostat.
The lump in the pipe is the Renault thermostat.

mudinuri · Jul 8, 2016

Hi Nodge 68,
Is there any chance you could let me have a the details as to fitting the Renault stat.
ie: 1) What do I order 2) Can it be done leaving the old thermostat insitu.3) Most important, which way does it go in and which hose does it go into?
Thanks for that.
Dave..

Nodge68 · Jul 8, 2016

mudinuri said:
Hi Nodge 68,
Is there any chance you could let me have a the details as to fitting the Renault stat.
ie: 1) What do I order 2) Can it be done leaving the old thermostat insitu.3) Most important, which way does it go in and which hose does it go into?
Thanks for that.
Dave..

The thermostat is available at any auto factors although most need to order them in. The stat you need is for a Renault 4 or 5 with a 1.1Ltr engine iirc. They generally cost under £10.
The thermostat needs to be pushed into the hose (ringed in red) with the bulb towards the plastic T. It's a tight fit so will take lots of muscle and some plumbers silicone grease to fit it in far enough for the hose to be clamped back onto the T.
You can leave the old thermostat in place, which is the reason I used this mod.

mudinuri · Jul 9, 2016

Thanks Nodge68,
I"ve already ordered the ERG Blanking kit from Craddocks and will go to my local motor accessories shop and order the Thermostat as well.
Will put a thread on here when all finished and I"ve given it a few longish runs.
Cheers

Arctic2 · Jul 9, 2016

Hi Nodge68.
Your inline thermostat hoses look totally different to my FL 1 Td4 few pics of mine below I use the gates inline stat.

1

2

3

4

Alibro · Jul 9, 2016

It would probably be a waste of time doing the bypass if you don't clean out the inlet manifold. Good luck with that!

Very interesting about the temp. I have only driven my TD4 a couple of times now and noticed it was running cool, (just over 1/4 up the gauge) so looks like I have another wee job to do.

Nodge68 · Jul 9, 2016

Arctic2 said:
Hi Nodge68.
Your inline thermostat hoses look totally different to my FL 1 Td4 few pics of mine below I use the gates inline stat.

1

2

3

4

Mine's an auto which does have slightly different plumbing. It's something to do with the auto fluid cooler I think.

joshremlin · Jul 11, 2016

once doing the EGR etc id try a terraclean ive herd good reviews on brilliant MPG on the freelander pages after the little mods.

Josh

Arctic2 · Jul 13, 2016

Alibro said:
It would probably be a waste of time doing the bypass if you don't clean out the inlet manifold. Good luck with that!

Very interesting about the temp. I have only driven my TD4 a couple of times now and noticed it was running cool, (just over 1/4 up the gauge) so looks like I have another wee job to do.

Cleaned a few out the weekend

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