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EGR Valve Testing?

Discussion in 'TDCi Puma' started by Island-Rover, Feb 10, 2019.

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  1. Island-Rover

    Island-Rover Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Grenada, West Indies
    I have been working on my 2008 2.4 Puma tracking down a bunch of problems. Cleaned the injector seats and installed new injector seals, re-built the turbo, replaced the glow plug system, cleaned up the intake manifold. Finally got it all back together and got it started but when I scanned it, it comes up with an error saying that the EGR valve has failed and is in the closed position.

    I removed the EGR expecting to find it completely caked with carbon but it actually doesn't look too bad. I guess I can clean it up and see if that fixes anything but it is such a pain to get in and out, I am wondering if there is a way to test the EGR valve electronically? I have seen some things on YouTube for other vehical EGR valves saying that you can test the pins and that they should have X resistance between certain pins. A quick scan of the Land Rover shop manual doesn't give any values or mention a test like this at all.

    Does anyone know of any methods for checking the EGR valve? Obviously I could either replace it or eliminate it, but would love to get this last gremlin figured out and get her back on the road. Also would rather not buy parts if I don't need them. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
     
  2. Island-Rover

    Island-Rover Member

    Joined:
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    33
    Likes Received:
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    Location:
    Grenada, West Indies
    So - in case anyone is curious how this turned out... I cleaned up the EGR valve with brake cleaner, removed the control unit (pry the tabs up on the retainer and pull it apart). I found some carbon build up inside the control unit which I am sure isn't supposed to be there, cleaned that up. Tested the small electric motor which seemed to be working fine. Cleaned up all the gears and electrical contacts and put it all back together. Reinstalled the EGR (which is a serious pain!) and fired up the engine. The engine was now idling very rough (symptom of an open EGR valve - trouble). Hooked up the diagnostic tool which showed that the ECU was telling the EGR to be closed, but that the EGR was actually open. Damn! I am guessing that means I somehow put the EGR valve back together wrong. Well - it is too much of a PITA to remove it again and figure out what I did wrong so I am going to install a blanking plate and get a BAS ECU Re-Map. You can buy a new EGR valve for $100 - $180 USD or buy a "Atric" ECU interface and re-program for the ECU from Alive Tuning for about $640 USD. Not cheap - but if you consider I won't have to buy a new EGR valve - that takes about $100 off the price right? Luckily I do not have to deal with emissions testing here, so hopefully this will clear up the problem and get me back on the road!
     
    Wimblowdriver likes this.
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