EGR Valve success

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Iain C

You can just blank it off with a plate and leave the rest in place.... (I think the plate you can get from ebay is 2mm thick so should fit in between with the same bolts!) The kit I bought had a 6mm plate which is for total removal of the EGR) ...... if you look at the restriction the valve itself causes its bound to stop a bit of air flow but I cant say how much different if any it makes by just blanking it off and not removing it totally.

I just removed mine, and as said best £50 spent on the disco.

Hope this helps

Jack
 
Help...I'm still not clear on this EGR thing!

I have the blanking plate ready to go on, I hear from some people that's all I need, and from others I hear that I need the bypass pipe thing too.

So for a temporary measure, can I just unbolt the EGR from the manifold, clean the inlet pipe, and slip the plate under with a paper gasket, put the same bolts and the EGR valve back on? Will this work? Do I unplug the valve from the loom or just leave it plugged in? Are the bolts long enough?

And if I go the whole hog and get the bypass pipe thingy allowing me to sling the EGR assembly in the bin, does this give any advantage over just leaving the redundant parts in situ?

Thanks!

Iain dont worry, it's just a case of doing it right or doing it very very right:)
Put your plate on, EGR back on and you will be cooking with gas, you will notice the difference immediately, does'nt make any difference if to disconect it as it's now blanked and the gases can't re-circulate anyway.And then if one day you wana do it very very right you need a new hose between the intercooler & the inlet manifold which for very very right both should be cleaned, you can then take your EGR off,keeping blanking plate in position of course and throw EGR in the bin-Sorted:)
 
Excellent, thanks for the tips all!

I spoke to my local Land Rover specialist and basically fitted it between the air inlet pipe and the "cold" side of the EGR valve, thereby doing away with the need to attempt to get those manifold allen bolts out, and keeping the EGR in situ but doing nothing.

But wow, what a difference! The thing just seems to have so much more grunt low down, not sure it makes a blind bit of difference above 3000 revs when accelerating (tend not to go there anyway really), to the extent that going round roundabouts etc you can almost be a gear higher than normal.

But when you get to cruising speed, I'm sure I noticed literally having to back off the throttle more than I am used to if you are trying to get to 70mph.

Lastly (and I'm sure I am just imaging this...)it almost seems like I can hear the turbo more, as if it comes in at about 1700 rpm more noticeably. However, this could be because I changed the gearbox oil at the same time (and used some Forte treatment) which has certainly made it quieter and easier to change gears.

Thanks for the advice!
 
Just fitted the kit I got from Td5 alive, few problems as I have the heat exchanger in the middle of the recirc pipe so I fitted the blanking plate to the left of it leaving the exchanger in place, valve replacement tube went in no bother. Took it for a run out and so far so good, feels like it's breathing right now, check the consumption on the next fill up and see how thats improved. So it seem like £50.00 well spent.
 
Back
Top