EAS Pump running constantly

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jacckk

jacckk

Active Member
Posts
321
Location
Durham, UK
My EAS pump is running constantly, if I open the door to stop height changes and allow it to fill the tank it will keep running for more than 10 minutes (Not sure how long it takes I usually get bored by that amount of time). I took the blue pipe off and I can block off the air flow using my finger. The only time it seems to turn off is when the suspension lowers. It doesn't seem to take that long to raise the car. I've never had any EAS faults from it, it seems to work fine apart from getting really hot and running constantly.

I've changed the piston seal twice and the o rings that seal the cylinder and the reed valve. The only thing I haven't replaced is the cylinder itself, it doesn't seem to have any major damage on, maybe a slight mark that I can just feel with my finger.

Next I guess I'll replace the cylinder and the piston seal again, is there anything else it could be?
 
Brand new last year, sorry forgot to mention that. But just for clarification, I replaced the piston seal once which made no difference. I replaced it again last weekend and it still made no difference to the compressor output.

I followed Storey Wilson's youtube video on how to do it.
 
jacckk said:
Brand new last year, sorry forgot to mention that. But just for clarification, I replaced the piston seal once which made no difference. I replaced it again last weekend and it still made no difference to the compressor output.

I followed Storey Wilson's youtube video on how to do it.
Click to expand...

Did you put it in the right way round?:)
 
jacckk said:
Brand new last year, sorry forgot to mention that. But just for clarification, I replaced the piston seal once which made no difference. I replaced it again last weekend and it still made no difference to the compressor output.

I followed Storey Wilson's youtube video on how to do it.
Click to expand...
Did you check the reed valves in the compressor head?
 
jacckk said:
The piston seal? There's only one way it can go on and fit the brass ring isn't there?



I removed them and both sets looked OK to me. I saw wammers said on another thread to put a little bit of silicon on the o-ring to keep it in place so I also did that.
Click to expand...

Yes but are they set correctly? The O'ring that seals the exhaust valve should be stuck in place with a small amount of silicone sealant. If you have ANY sort of mark on the cylinder change it and fit a new piston seal. The piston seal should be clamped firmly all the way round by the retaining ring. Check the diaphragm. If you take the blue pipe off the compressor it should not be possible to seal the outlet with your finger when the compressor is running using reasonable pressure.
 
wammers said:
Yes but are they set correctly? The O'ring that seals the exhaust valve should be stuck in place with a small amount of silicone sealant. If you have ANY sort of mark on the cylinder change it and fit a new piston seal. The piston seal should be clamped firmly all the way round by the retaining ring. Check the diaphragm. If you take the blue pipe off the compressor it should not be possible to seal the outlet with your finger when the compressor is running using reasonable pressure.
Click to expand...

Is what set correctly? The reeds? I've put them back in the same as I took them out.

Are you referring to the diaphragm in the valve block? If so I've replaced all the o-rings and diaphragms in there.

When the blue pipe is removed with slight pressure I can mostly block it off, a slight amount escapes from past the edges but with a little pressure I can fully block it off.
 
jacckk said:
Is what set correctly? The reeds? I've put them back in the same as I took them out.

Are you referring to the diaphragm in the valve block? If so I've replaced all the o-rings and diaphragms in there.

When the blue pipe is removed with slight pressure I can mostly block it off, a slight amount escapes from past the edges but with a little pressure I can fully block it off.
Click to expand...

In that case you have not rebuilt the compressor properly. Look in the "How to" section for how to set the reeds that is what it is there for.
 
Hi Guys

Just out of interest does anyove has the 'expected' PSI Ais pressure for each corner to get the EAS up to say normal height ?

The reason I ask is that when I had to revert to the Schrader valves to get her mobile without the teeth rattling bump stops being used, I noticed that the OSR (RHD car) was dramatically higher pressure for the same level (or there abouts) as the other air springs ?

I realise that the Fuel tank is near that one and in my case it was nearly full but would be interested to know if anyone has rough PSI numbers for each corner ?

Cheers :tea:
 
Last edited:
pmallinson said:
Hi Guys

Just out of interest does anyove has the 'expected' PSI Ais pressure for each corner to get the EAS up to say normal height ?

The reason I ask is that when I had to revert to the Schrader valves to get her mobile without the teeth rattling bump stops being used, I noticed that the OSR (RHD car) was dramatically higher pressure for the same level (or there abouts) as the other air springs ?

I realise that the Fuel tank is near that one and in my case it was nearly full but would be interested to know if anyone has rough PSI numbers for each corner ?

Cheers :tea:
Click to expand...
It's the fat bird that sits in the back.:D:D:D
 
pmallinson said:
Hi Guys

Just out of interest does anyove has the 'expected' PSI Ais pressure for each corner to get the EAS up to say normal height ?

The reason I ask is that when I had to revert to the Schrader valves to get her mobile without the teeth rattling bump stops being used, I noticed that the OSR (RHD car) was dramatically higher pressure for the same level (or there abouts) as the other air springs ?

I realise that the Fuel tank is near that one and in my case it was nearly full but would be interested to know if anyone has rough PSI numbers for each corner ?

Cheers :tea:
Click to expand...
It's whatever pressure is needed to level the car, normally as determined by the height sensors. from memory with valves, it's about 60psi at the rear.
 
Last edited:
Hi Thanks for that,

I think I need to have a bit of a deeper investigation as I reckon about 30 PSI ot thereabout for the fronts and about 50 -60 for NSR but over 100 for OSR:confused::rolleyes:
 
pmallinson said:
Hi Thanks for that,

I think I need to have a bit of a deeper investigation as I reckon about 30 PSI ot thereabout for the fronts and about 50 -60 for NSR but over 100 for OSR:confused::rolleyes:
Click to expand...

You won't lift the engine with 30 PSI. The front is a lot heavier than the rear unloaded.
 
Datatek said:
That's what I thought, but the CT weighbridge gave 1210 front & 1100 rear or thereabouts, suprised me how close the figures were. Tank was full.
Click to expand...

A tank full of fuel will be about 156 pounds, but even with the fuel the front is heavier. Unless the boot is loaded there will always be more pressure in the front. If he has 100 psi in a rear bag his boot is full of bricks. :D:D
 
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