EAS Problems post o-ring change

OK, spent a couple of hours on Saturday morning replacing the o-rings in my EAS valve block because my compressor was running a lot and this was the last bit to be done on the EAS. I replaced the bags and compressor seals during the summer with new items. Haven't had any problems with the EAS, it didn't drop overnight and went to the various heights in about 30-40 seconds.

However, after replacing the o-rings the front drivers side drops to the stops within about 10 minutes and it takes a good 5-10 minutes to get back to normal ride height in the morning.

I've checked for leaks with soapy water and no obvious leaks. I've removed the timer relay to stop it leveling and the front still drops which seems to suggest it's not the height sensor. This leaves me with the NRV's or a corner valve but I've checked the exhaust and no discernible leaks.

Bit stuck now, any suggestions other than torching it!!

i would only hazzard a guese as its not a job iv tackled yet my self but i would recheck those O rings again my understanding is if an.O ring is just ever so slightly to thin ie wrong diametre it wont seal properly

good luck

biketeacherdave said:

i would only hazzard a guese as its not a job iv tackled yet my self but i would recheck those O rings again my understanding is if an.O ring is just ever so slightly to thin ie wrong diametre it wont seal properly

good luck

Click to expand...

Well I have tackled it and I agree, check what you have done as it didn't do it before.

Badly fitted O ring or pipe not seated in the valve block IMO. NRV would not affect just one corner IMO, Wammers will correct me if I'm wrong on that.

Yes Keith that is correct NRVs cannot cause a corner drop. Have you over tightened the solenoid valve seats, if they are distorted and not completely flat you can get a leak on the small O'ring in the centre that can cause a corner to drop. Remove and rub them in a figure of eight pattern on a sheet of 320 wet or dry on a flat surface until they are completely flat and just nip up to avoid distortion. That along with the solenoid seal itself or a leaking pipe or bag are the only things that will cause corner drop air pressure wise. Length of time to raise is either lack of air pressure (weak compressor) or more likely in this case a storage leak. Bad NRV 1 will cause a storage leak along with pipe joints. If there is full pressure in the tank (no storage leak) rise should be instant. See the "How to" section for checking compressor pressure and output. Also have yo got all the corner valves back in the correct place. Inlet/exhaust solenoid valves have a lower spring pressure than the corner valves and if mixed up and put on a corner the exhaust/inlet solenoid valves will not hold a corner closed

Thanks for all the info. I'll go through the things as suggested and report back. I did the valves one by one to make sure I didn't mix things up so confident that's not the problem.

Just been out and had a check. The valve for the drooping corner is leaking. Took it apart and the o-ring on the solenoid shaft has been pinched when I put it back together. I've put it back in again as I need to use the car but ordered some more o-rings. I'll probably replace all the solenoid shaft ones again. Found out the compressor isn't so great either so I'll sort that once I fix the leaks.

Lyndasbottom said:

Just been out and had a check. The valve for the drooping corner is leaking. Took it apart and the o-ring on the solenoid shaft has been pinched when I put it back together. I've put it back in again as I need to use the car but ordered some more o-rings. I'll probably replace all the solenoid shaft ones again. Found out the compressor isn't so great either so I'll sort that once I fix the leaks.

Click to expand...

The only two things that can leak and cause a corner to drop on the solenoid valves are the small O'ring in the base seating against the block and the solenoid shaft end seal. Air has to leak past those before it can leak from anywhere else. All the other O'rings in the valve are only used when the bag is being inflated.

Oh, in that case it must be leaking from there up the shaft past the damaged seal. I sprayed soapy water on it and it bubbles where the wires come out of the solenoid. When the new seals come I'll do the wet and dry trick before re-installing. Wish i hadn't started this now!!

Lyndasbottom said:

Oh, in that case it must be leaking from there up the shaft past the damaged seal. I sprayed soapy water on it and it bubbles where the wires come out of the solenoid. When the new seals come I'll do the wet and dry trick before re-installing. Wish i hadn't started this now!!

Click to expand...

You will be glad you did when it's all sorted

Have replaced the three o rings and now all is well, no drooping corner any more. Also replaced the compressor seal which has made it a bit better but still not as good as it should be. I can just about stop the air flow with my finger so might be investing in another pump in the near future before it packs in again.

Did you replace the cylinder as well as the seal?

No but I did replace it about a year ago. Do you think a new one might help?

Lyndasbottom said:

No but I did replace it about a year ago. Do you think a new one might help?

Click to expand...

Attention to the inlet and more importantly the exhaust valve in the compressor head maybe worthwhile. See my "How to" for info.

Lyndasbottom said:

No but I did replace it about a year ago. Do you think a new one might help?

Click to expand...

Quite possibly

+1 on the little o-rings inside pump head. As per the How-To, mine was too thin and causing the pump to have low output. Correct thickness o-ring sorted it so pump works well now.

Pete