P38A Isolating a leak.

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It could be airline collets & seals, airline pinhole, leaky airbags or leaky valve in the block.

Soapy water test all the air lines at bags & block. Also do the airbags themselves at all heights. They generally either leak around the airline collets, or where the airbag folds over & cracks.

Valve block is more challenging because you cannot check to two bottom valves without removing the block. If left rear drops lowest it easy to access. because it's on top of the valve block next to diaphragm valve.. First use soapy water around the solenoid base. Then unscrew the RL solenoid and squirt around the valve itself.

It's also possible the valves are leaking internally & out the exhaust. This generally requires a bench test, but for a quick overnight check there's the balloon method !!

Get it pumped up, and remove the delay relay to prevent self levelling. Then put a balloon over the exhaust silencer, and check again in the morning. If the valves are leaking internally, the balloon will inflate !!
 
Flossie said:
Less than 24hrs later the left rear is flatter than a witches tit. Right rear isn't far behind. Thought they looked a bit iffy when I first got her 2 yrs ago. Those of you who have done the job.....is it worth getting her over the pit? I ask because I'll have to move stuff around to get her in and if it's no real help then I'll do it on the drive.
Click to expand...

I did rears on a paddock, also front discs.

No need for a pit the work is in the wheel arch.

J
 
pwood999 said:
It could be airline collets & seals, airline pinhole, leaky airbags or leaky valve in the block.

Soapy water test all the air lines at bags & block. Also do the airbags themselves at all heights. They generally either leak around the airline collets, or where the airbag folds over & cracks.

Valve block is more challenging because you cannot check to two bottom valves without removing the block. If left rear drops lowest it easy to access. because it's on top of the valve block next to diaphragm valve.. First use soapy water around the solenoid base. Then unscrew the RL solenoid and squirt around the valve itself.

It's also possible the valves are leaking internally & out the exhaust. This generally requires a bench test, but for a quick overnight check there's the balloon method !!

Get it pumped up, and remove the delay relay to prevent self levelling. Then put a balloon over the exhaust silencer, and check again in the morning. If the valves are leaking internally, the balloon will inflate !!
Click to expand...
Sounds like hes on independent valves.

J
 
If the airlines have valve on the block end, then the same applies. Soapy water on all joints & the valves. Then all over the bags at all heights !!
 
Flossie said:
Less than 24hrs later the left rear is flatter than a witches tit. Right rear isn't far behind. Thought they looked a bit iffy when I first got her 2 yrs ago. Those of you who have done the job.....is it worth getting her over the pit? I ask because I'll have to move stuff around to get her in and if it's no real help then I'll do it on the drive.
Click to expand...
Easy enough on the drive IMO. Getting the pins out can be a bitch. Follow the airbag replacement guide in the tech archive.
Whatever you do, don't lower the car with no air in the bag.
 
Flossie said:
Less than 24hrs later the left rear is flatter than a witches tit. Right rear isn't far behind. Thought they looked a bit iffy when I first got her 2 yrs ago. Those of you who have done the job.....is it worth getting her over the pit? I ask because I'll have to move stuff around to get her in and if it's no real help then I'll do it on the drive.
Click to expand...
Did both my rears on drive way no problem
 
Flossie said:
Less than 24hrs later the left rear is flatter than a witches tit. Right rear isn't far behind. Thought they looked a bit iffy when I first got her 2 yrs ago. Those of you who have done the job.....is it worth getting her over the pit? I ask because I'll have to move stuff around to get her in and if it's no real help then I'll do it on the drive.
Click to expand...

The bag replacement? Do it on the drive.
 
Datatek said:
With the EAS relay removed there is no 12 volt supply to the EAS ECU so disconnecting the battery is no different. With no power to the EAS ECU the EAS is completely disabled.
Click to expand...
Well fine, if the relay is completely removed... I had assumed we were talking about removing the EAS relay and replacing it with a yellow one...but clearly I was mis-interpreting
 
romanrob said:
Well fine, if the relay is completely removed... I had assumed we were talking about removing the EAS relay and replacing it with a yellow one...but clearly I was mis-interpreting
Click to expand...
That's got me thinking...I believe the eas special ,hard to buy new, relay is only necessary when running diagnostics? If that relay is replaced with a normal one would the eas still operate correctly? Just stick the special one back in if you need to run diagnostics and thus the special one gets an easy life and thus less likely to wear out.
I think alot :vb-weyes: :vb-weyes::vb-lol:
 
Flossie said:
That's got me thinking...I believe the eas special ,hard to buy new, relay is only necessary when running diagnostics? If that relay is replaced with a normal one would the eas still operate correctly? Just stick the special one back in if you need to run diagnostics and thus the special one gets an easy life and thus less likely to wear out.
I think alot :vb-weyes: :vb-weyes::vb-lol:
Click to expand...
You think too much. The EAS will work with a normal relay but will not self level when parked, nor will you be able to just plug in diagnostics in the event of it dropping to the bump stops en-route without faffing about. Also, the EAS relay is not a simple relay, it contains electronic components which deteriorate when unused.
 
Henry_b said:
Pulling the relay is the easiest way to isolate IMO.

My old duchess has 11yr old dunlops under her and they haven't dropped an inch in the 3 months she's been sat. ;)
Click to expand...
or just pull fuse 44...if we really want the easiest way - but it's just shades of grey, at the end of the day
 
Datatek said:
You think too much. The EAS will work with a normal relay but will not self level when parked, nor will you be able to just plug in diagnostics in the event of it dropping to the bump stops en-route without faffing about. Also, the EAS relay is not a simple relay, it contains electronic components which deteriorate when unused.
Click to expand...
Not sure if self levelling when parked ranks as the P38s most useless feature
 
L322 does it as well, but according to RAVE it can also activate the pump while parked. Another flat battery feature. Don’t have one so cannot confirm!!
 
pwood999 said:
L322 does it as well, but according to RAVE it can also activate the pump while parked. Another flat battery feature. Don’t have one so cannot confirm!!
Click to expand...

Never heard that 1 :vb-confused2: and never seen it(heard ours try) or read in any docs, so suspect “old wives tale”

J
 
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