Eas gone nuts

Returned from a weeks holiday and the RR started first time and everything ok, next morning got in it to go to work and the suspension took forever to rise from access height, it eventually did and was then fine on the 50 mile trip to work and a trip to the chippy at luncg time.
Got in it to go home and it was stuck on the floor, pump running, regular clicking from the valve block but no lift.
Took the car round the back of work on plugged it into the airline after disconnecting the feed pipe from the drier, filled with air in seconds and reached ride full ride height after 10 seconds, dropped it down to standard height and started to drive home.
Got 15 miles down the motorway then it all goes mad, all 4 lights flash on the height rocker switch, dash tells me EAS fault max 35mph and had to drive home on the bump stops.
Got home and compressor wasnt running, i believe this is part of the hard lock? thought i would pump it up again with my compressor but it doesnt seem to take air into the system anymore?
Rang a local indi RR garage this morning and they said they would come out and find the fault and unlock it for me, wifes been waiting in all day for them and no show.
So now im stuck with it on the bump stops and need it tomorrow for my daily 100 mile commute. no use of the wifes car tomorrow unfortunately.

Any suggestions?

I did replace all 4 air bags 3 weeks ago, so thats the only thing im sure its not ! When i bought it last month the guy said it had had a new compressor within the last 12 months so i dont think thats the issue ???

Help please.

If you can get to Wigan, I'll reset it for you. Or if you are quick and can get to Warrington before 4:45, I'll do it at work for you.

Otherwise, the software is free and if you can get your hands on an old OBDII cable that you can butcher, you could make up an interface and reset it yourself.

Software is EAS Unlock and I *think* a wiring diagram is included...

Nik

Also, in Wammers guide here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f71/checking-eas-compressor-diaphragm-valve-172555.html
You can run the compressor out of the car to check it works - but you'd still need to reset it and fix whatever the fault is.

Sounds like you have a leak which has knackered the pump. As the bags are new it could be a leak where the pipes go into the bags or the diaphragm in the valve block.
I can supply the EAS cable and the software on CD.

Right spent the last 2 hours trying to make sense of what's going on and all the time I'm thinking coil springs sound like a really good shout when you consider just how many components there are to fail on the EAS and the cost of each item to replace.
The pump is knackered, it pumps but is very weak and starts to whine after a few minutes running.
The system will not accept air from my compressor in the garage, i've tried to pressurise the system from 3 points

1, the blue pump feed pipe, all this does is blow a gentle stream of air from the silencer.
2, from the inlet of the dryer, only the dryer and the return pipe to the valve block pressurise, the system does not.
3, from the dryer outlet pipe, only the pipe to the valve block pressurise.

It's as if there's a blockage in the valve block because no matter how much air you put into it no pressure gets past it into the system.
Does the Hard fault block the system from working even if it is now getting an air supply??

So now i'm at the throwing money away stage, buy a new pump as I know that is weak, then get fault codes cleared.
I will be amazed if the new pump gets air into the system past the valve block so the fault code will probably trip again.
Then its refurb the valve block o'rings and diaphragm, but is it a stuck solenoid?

Has anyone ever just put their RR with eas faults in a garage? and what was the damage to your wallet?
Is it better to pay someone who knows what to look for to replace the right part first time or to stumble through the expensive process of elimination?

EAS is quite a simple system, be methodical with the help of the knowledgeable guys on here (Wammers/Datatek) and you'll soon find your fault.

Even if you had to do the lot, its not much different to a coil conversion in cost.

£270 for the bags - but you've already done those
£16 to Datatek for the EAS lead and software
£22 for the pump seals AND liner
£22 for a full o-ring kit to do the valve block and collets etc

Now I'm not an expert (they'll be along in a min) but I would guess that if its in hard fault mode, you wouldn't be able to inflate the bags by the method you've tried as the valves in the valve block will be open and the air will just exhaust. You need to take it out of fault mode first. Which I did offer to do for you earlier...

Good luck

Nik

benthomas said:

Right spent the last 2 hours trying to make sense of what's going on and all the time I'm thinking coil springs sound like a really good shout when you consider just how many components there are to fail on the EAS and the cost of each item to replace.
The pump is knackered, it pumps but is very weak and starts to whine after a few minutes running.
The system will not accept air from my compressor in the garage, i've tried to pressurise the system from 3 points

1, the blue pump feed pipe, all this does is blow a gentle stream of air from the silencer.
2, from the inlet of the dryer, only the dryer and the return pipe to the valve block pressurise, the system does not.
3, from the dryer outlet pipe, only the pipe to the valve block pressurise.

It's as if there's a blockage in the valve block because no matter how much air you put into it no pressure gets past it into the system.
Does the Hard fault block the system from working even if it is now getting an air supply??

So now i'm at the throwing money away stage, buy a new pump as I know that is weak, then get fault codes cleared.
I will be amazed if the new pump gets air into the system past the valve block so the fault code will probably trip again.
Then its refurb the valve block o'rings and diaphragm, but is it a stuck solenoid?

Has anyone ever just put their RR with eas faults in a garage? and what was the damage to your wallet?
Is it better to pay someone who knows what to look for to replace the right part first time or to stumble through the expensive process of elimination?

Click to expand...

The only pipe you can couple to to pressurise the tank is the Violet coded pipe that goes into the valve block.

NikTheGeek said:

Even if you had to do the lot, its not much different to a coil conversion in cost.

£270 for the bags - but you've already done those
£16 to Datatek for the EAS lead and software
£22 for the pump seals AND liner
£22 for a full o-ring kit to do the valve block and collets etc

Now I'm not an expert (they'll be along in a min) but I would guess that if its in hard fault mode, you wouldn't be able to inflate the bags by the method you've tried as the valves in the valve block will be open and the air will just exhaust. You need to take it out of fault mode first. Which I did offer to do for you earlier...

Good luck

Nik

Click to expand...

Ok that makes sense Nik, so if I get the pump replaced or refurbed could I call on you at work in Warrington to get the fault mode cleared then see what happens?

benthomas said:

Ok that makes sense Nik, so if I get the pump replaced or refurbed could I call on you at work in Warrington to get the fault mode cleared then see what happens?

Click to expand...

Yes, if no one else is nearer. I have a Nanocom so I can read and clear your fault. But there's no saying it won't come back if its something other than the compressor. If I were you, I'd still buy Datatek's lead. You could have it by the weekend if you ordered quick...

Nik

wammers said:

The only pipe you can couple to to pressurise the tank is the Violet coded pipe that goes into the valve block.

Click to expand...

Right now we're getting somewhere, just been out to unplug the violet coded pipe from the valve block to try and get some air in the system and air blasted out and kept coming, so it looks like the tank is full of air.
With the engine running the air pump is not running but I know the pump does run although very weak when wired up to 12v.
The only problem appears to be the Hard Fault code stopping the whole system from working.

After clearing the fault, doing the compressor seals is cheap and easy and if done as an annual maintenance should keep it reliable.

benthomas said:

Right now we're getting somewhere, just been out to unplug the violet coded pipe from the valve block to try and get some air in the system and air blasted out and kept coming, so it looks like the tank is full of air.
With the engine running the air pump is not running but I know the pump does run although very weak when wired up to 12v.
The only problem appears to be the Hard Fault code stopping the whole system from working.

Click to expand...

That is the problem yes, nothing will happen with an hard fault. I did not mean for you to try and put air in the system, to do that through that pipe you would have to T it with a valve. Have you read my EAS "How to" at the top of the page? Maybe you should.

As a temp measure to get you mobile you can pump each bag . You disconnect the 4 pipes from the eas block. Ideally you need airline 6mm double ended push fittings to put on each one. Into each of these you need to fit a tyre valve. If you can get old tyre tubes or the valve stems from tubless rims, pare back the rubber about 30mm from the valve. This will reveal a brass 6mm stem which will go into the above fittings. Once pumped to about 60psi it should stay up or will highlight where you have the leak!! As you may not have the said push fittings perhaps you can come up with an alternative. Maybe the valve stems will go into the pipes from the bags if they are warmed slightly. Then you need very small jubilee clips to hold them!!

These pics may help clarify my garbled description. Shown are tee pieces which are better as you can connect each axle to one pump valve.

Use this link to pics which will enlarge http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-compressor-prepare-failure-159044.html

mgmayo said:

As a temp measure to get you mobile you can pump each bag . You disconnect the 4 pipes from the eas block. Ideally you need airline 6mm double ended push fittings to put on each one. Into each of these you need to fit a tyre valve. If you can get old tyre tubes or the valve stems from tubless rims, pare back the rubber about 30mm from the valve. This will reveal a brass 6mm stem which will go into the above fittings. Once pumped to about 60psi it should stay up or will highlight where you have the leak!! As you may not have the said push fittings perhaps you can come up with an alternative. Maybe the valve stems will go into the pipes from the bags if they are warmed slightly. Then you need very small jubilee clips to hold them!!

Click to expand...

Thank you mgmayo,
Very helpful advice, thats what i was looking for as a real temporarry measure to get me off the bump stops. If things don't go as planned today thats what i'll be doing tonight.
Question, if there is no leak in the system and i pump up each bag it should stay up, if i have s slight leak and i remove the leveling relay from under the seat it will stop all the other bags deflating right? can you drive the car with the relay disconnected?

benthomas said:

Thank you mgmayo,
Very helpful advice, thats what i was looking for as a real temporarry measure to get me off the bump stops. If things don't go as planned today thats what i'll be doing tonight.
Question, if there is no leak in the system and i pump up each bag it should stay up, if i have s slight leak and i remove the leveling relay from under the seat it will stop all the other bags deflating right? can you drive the car with the relay disconnected?

Click to expand...

Either do your compressor up or get a new one. Find and fix any leak that caused it to fail. All this buggering about will end in tears.

benthomas said:

Thank you mgmayo,
Very helpful advice, thats what i was looking for as a real temporarry measure to get me off the bump stops. If things don't go as planned today thats what i'll be doing tonight.
Question, if there is no leak in the system and i pump up each bag it should stay up, if i have s slight leak and i remove the leveling relay from under the seat it will stop all the other bags deflating right? can you drive the car with the relay disconnected?

Click to expand...

Removing the relay will do nothing if you fit valves as suggested by mgmayo. I would not use T pieces to fit temporary valves, just straight couplers and valves, then remove the EAS fuse. If there are no leaks (Unlikely) it will stay up. that will get you out of trouble or show you need to replace the airbags.

wammers said:

Either do your compressor up or get a new one. Find and fix any leak that caused it to fail. All this buggering about will end in tears.

Click to expand...

Second that, Wammers. Mine had the same sort of issue, and I had all sorts of ideas about what was at fault. It's dead easy: if your compressor is gone, replace or refurbish it before you look for anything else to mess with. I bought a smart-plug EAS reset thingy off ebay to clear the faults, replaced compressor seal and liner, and car was back to normal. When it comes to why the compressor fails, it will probably in most cases be plain old age or one or several leaks which causes it to work overtime. Once you've cleared your faults and the system is working again, use soapy water in a spray bottle to look for leaks which you can then repair. It's nevertheless a good idea to have the emergency tyre-valve fittings in your glovebox, it the event you have a failure at a very inconvenient time or location. These are also available on ebay from a number of vendors.
Best of luck!

Henrik

Henrik97 said:

Second that, Wammers. Mine had the same sort of issue, and I had all sorts of ideas about what was at fault. It's dead easy: if your compressor is gone, replace or refurbish it before you look for anything else to mess with. I bought a smart-plug EAS reset thingy off ebay to clear the faults, replaced compressor seal and liner, and car was back to normal. When it comes to why the compressor fails, it will probably in most cases be plain old age or one or several leaks which causes it to work overtime. Once you've cleared your faults and the system is working again, use soapy water in a spray bottle to look for leaks which you can then repair. It's nevertheless a good idea to have the emergency tyre-valve fittings in your glovebox, it the event you have a failure at a very inconvenient time or location. These are also available on ebay from a number of vendors.
Best of luck!

Henrik

Click to expand...

I'm not looking for a cure, just a temporary way to lift it off its arse. The compressor will hopefully be repaired today and codes cleared tonight but if for some reason the parts dont turm up i cant do another 150 miles on the bump stops till tomorrow night.