P38A EAS fault that I am unable to diagnose with certainty

Don't just check the white connectors behind the kick panel, cut them out and solder them up, do the other kick panel connectors as well.
If a sensor has gone the car will lift and lower slightly at the front or rear and the pump will run almost constantly.
With live data on the nanocom you'll see reading on the height sensors that jump around and should be a steady figure.
On the bench the sensor can be read, as said with a multi meter.
A slow and steady sweeping action will reveal jumping readings and will normally show itself around the midway area of the sweep as this is where most of the time the car is sat at normal height.
You can sometimes get away with sopping a sensor from one side to the next but if it's defective it's slinging time!! Bin it and change them out.. Do it in pairs if your budget allows.
Happy p38'ing

Green ones are the best

kds said:

No multi meter ? no problem get your self to Lidl on Sunday just under a tenner.

Click to expand...

They're ok for measuring 12v etc, I've taken cheap ones apart to have a look and there's bugger all in there

Henry_b said:

This 'ere is handy

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/testing-eas-height-sensors.364480/

Click to expand...

So my memory isn't bad unless I want it to be.

Ok, guys there is a lot for me to try over the weekend! I have a multimeter so will test the sensors and try the other things that have been advised.

Just a quick question, once I take off the sensor, will it need recallibrating somehow? I don´t want to be left with an undriveable car before I get my nanocom.

mikerajjers said:

Ok, guys there is a lot for me to try over the weekend! I have a multimeter so will test the sensors and try the other things that have been advised.

Just a quick question, once I take off the sensor, will it need recallibrating somehow? I don´t want to be left with an undriveable car before I get my nanocom.

Click to expand...

I've never had to.

Same here. It's wise to go through the process just to rule out any differences but normally plug in and drive off... Don't forget the wheels....

mikerajjers said:

Hi all,

On some occassions I get all of the red LEDs light up and an "EAS fault" on the dash. Other times no problem at all whatsoever. During winter the rear right hand side went down and then the whole vehicle. However, I had the vehicle in my garage connected to a trickle charger for a week...and the height from floor to bottom of wheel arch was 82,5cm and it didn´t move by a single millimeter (hence why I am not absolutely sure the bags are at fault).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Click to expand...

Given the original description of the problem, I still think the issue is most likely the Driver Pack connections. If it was height sensors the car would do strange things most of the time while driving.

pwood999 said:

Given the original description of the problem, I still think the issue is most likely the Driver Pack connections. If it was height sensors the car would do strange things most of the time while driving.

Click to expand...

Does the old girl have similar plugs in the kick panels like the 38'?

Yes, but minimal impact on EAS operation. C102 & C104 behind the left panel carry signals & power for the EAS Height switch plus other things, BUT if these connections are bad the switch generally stops working all together.

4 Lights flashing is a fault indication from the ECU, and would not be happening if the signals to the switch were bad. It really needs diagnostic before taking things apart or measuring height sensors.

Grrrrrr found that the pins on the connector for the valve block needed attention as they were loose fitting.

pwood999 said:

FYI, I also found mine dropped height during the colder winter nights in Dec & Jan but has stopped doing it now, with no changes done to the system. Same thing on another valve block in the garage over the winter. My conclusion is the solenoid valves struggle to hold air when they get very cold.

Click to expand...

I don't remember exactly, but I think the temperature around the time was -10C for around a week. I remember the door seals were very stiff and frozen when I was opening the drivers door.

kermit_rr said:

They're ok for measuring 12v etc, I've taken cheap ones apart to have a look and there's bugger all in there

Click to expand...

Just so, better than nothing and not every body wants to go to the expense of a Fluke.

Ok, so I have some developments after going to check what you guys have suggested, but I now have these new observations...

1. car has been stood since Wednesday in the garage (saturday afternoon now at time of writing). No loss in height at all. Opened it, started up beautifully first time and immediately raised itself to ride height. No faults and only one LED illuminated as expected (as opposed to all of them on the height indicator). I turned it off, started it again and no problem, no faults at all.
2. Locked the car with remote and could hear a rapid clicking after locking... after more unlocking and locking cycles I pinpointed the clicking to the area of the front right hand side door lock (passenger door as it is LHD). This happened a few weeks ago but I didn't think much of it that time.
3. Thought I'd try and see if this has an effect on the EAS... low and behold, I unlock, start it up and EAS fault appears immediately. All of the LEDs remain illuminated. Car doesn't raise at all. Just a few minutes ago everything was working perfectly.
4. Fuel flap open button does not work, door central locking does, tailgate also opens. A few weeks ago my right door central locking, tailgoate, nor fuel flap didn't work. After checking all of the fuses (I read online fuse 14 should be the culprit) under the seat with a multimeter set on continuity they were all fine and the flap, tailgate and locking worked again. I think I may have put it back on trickle charge at this time, but don't remember exactly.

My thoughts are that this is somehow related... I have read issues with the remote receiver possibly being a problem, but not sure if this could be the issue. What are your thoughts? Could a battery drain cause these problems? Not sure though as the V8 started up without hesitation. Or perhaps it may be a dodgy door lock?

Cheers

Mike

mikerajjers said:

Ok, so I have some developments after going to check what you guys have suggested, but I now have these new observations...

1. car has been stood since Wednesday in the garage (saturday afternoon now at time of writing). No loss in height at all. Opened it, started up beautifully first time and immediately raised itself to ride height. No faults and only one LED illuminated as expected (as opposed to all of them on the height indicator). I turned it off, started it again and no problem, no faults at all.
2. Locked the car with remote and could hear a rapid clicking after locking... after more unlocking and locking cycles I pinpointed the clicking to the area of the front right hand side door lock (passenger door as it is LHD). This happened a few weeks ago but I didn't think much of it that time.
3. Thought I'd try and see if this has an effect on the EAS... low and behold, I unlock, start it up and EAS fault appears immediately. All of the LEDs remain illuminated. Car doesn't raise at all. Just a few minutes ago everything was working perfectly.
4. Fuel flap open button does not work, door central locking does, tailgate also opens. A few weeks ago my right door central locking, tailgoate, nor fuel flap didn't work. After checking all of the fuses (I read online fuse 14 should be the culprit) under the seat with a multimeter set on continuity they were all fine and the flap, tailgate and locking worked again. I think I may have put it back on trickle charge at this time, but don't remember exactly.

My thoughts are that this is somehow related... I have read issues with the remote receiver possibly being a problem, but not sure if this could be the issue. What are your thoughts? Could a battery drain cause these problems? Not sure though as the V8 started up without hesitation. Or perhaps it may be a dodgy door lock?

Cheers

Mike

Click to expand...

Or a dodgy earth .

The clicking when you lock the car is the EAS doing its self leveling this is normal and will do it every 6 hours again is normal

Right ok... I've just been back to the car....

1. unlocked it, started it up beautifully, no EAS fault, raised to height immediately. Just the one LED as expected.
2. switched it off, started it again, no problem
3. swithced it off, locked, unlocked and started again.... perfect, not problems with EAS.
4. HOWEVER... the front right passenger door (it is LHD remeber) central locking did not unlock, and now the tailgate and fule flap also don't work.... and didn't during the above three steps in this post.

So I am thinking a door lock coul be to blame? This may be giving incorrect readings to the driver pack?

brianp38dse said:

The clicking when you lock the car is the EAS doing its self leveling this is normal and will do it every 6 hours again is normal

Click to expand...

but this was rapid and loud clicking pinpointed to the door lock area...

Have a check through Martys test sheet

RH Front door latch provides the ground to tailgate button via Microswitch-1. If latch is clicking & bouncing it needs a refurbish or replacement BEFORE it fails completely and you cannot open the door or the tailgate !!

EAS problem has nothing to do with the door locks - check the driver pack connectors !!