P38A EAS fault that I am unable to diagnose with certainty

I've taken the valve block out, the replacement driver pack doesn't look particularly new and shows signs of being fitted before. The current one certainly looks in better condition from the outside. What do you guys think?

Anyway, how would I switch the wires from the green thing to the 'new' driver pack? They go into the connector, but can't see an obvious way to get them out.

Mark Piercy said:

A dodgy sensor will make the front or rear lift a tiny amount and then drop. Called dancing.

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We've seen your Dad dancing.

Rubberknees said:

Dnacing, should have seen me doing my John Travolta routine on dance floor in the seventies

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No wonder your knees have gone.

tomcat59alan said:

We've seen your Dad dancing.

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I never have..

Mark Piercy said:

I never have..

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You don't want to.

You can ask him why he never calls

tomcat59alan said:

No wonder your knees have gone.

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He HE it was fun though. Did a lot of things back then what I'm paying for now

mikerajjers said:

I've taken the valve block out, the replacement driver pack doesn't look particularly new and shows signs of being fitted before. The current one certainly looks in better condition from the outside. What do you guys think?

Anyway, how would I switch the wires from the green thing to the 'new' driver pack? They go into the connector, but can't see an obvious way to get them out.

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It's not what it looks like on the outside but what goes on inside that matters.That green thing is the pressure switch,the contacts can be removed from the connector by using a needle to ,,"trip" the retaining tang, it's all in Rave.

hi
not the same car but system is much the same its a 2012 RRS Sdv6
had problems too
ok the 2 front bags had a leak so changed them
still had the problem intermittant SUSPENSION FAULT switch of and restart cleared and and was ok for a for a few more days
took it to an indpendant and he did a diag and said the valve block that sends the air front or rear needed changing and he fitted a new one 500 quid
but the problem was still therem TO CUT THE STORY SHORT
i was away for 8 weeks and when i got home batt was dead
fitted a new batt not had the problem since 12 weeks and all seems ok
so for the cost of a batt you may solve the problem
also when you fit it check the connector are tight not just the main one were it fitts the bat but the small ones that connect to them
they go direct to the control modual and these cars dont like slight flucations in the power lines

just a thought !!

Mike G

Well I reconditioned the valve block by replacing all the seals, I'll fit it tomorrow and use the replacement driver pack. Will see what it does. I managed to disconnect the pressure sensor too.

I don't think it is the battery as I had it tested and results came back as good.

Driver packs look decent, worth getting someone with good sense of smell see if they smell any burning on them. Green sensor needs sealing up with locktite or somesuch be sure check rave

I've put everything back, no errors come up. However, the car doesn't rise at all. How long should it take for the car to raise after completely emptying the system? I took out the pipes and there is air coming out of the reservoir and suspension bags. Am I just being impatient and should I wait for the car to raise? Cheers

mikerajjers said:

I've put everything back, no errors come up. However, the car doesn't rise at all. How long should it take for the car to raise after completely emptying the system? I took out the pipes and there is air coming out of the reservoir and suspension bags. Am I just being impatient and should I wait for the car to raise? Cheers

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If you start up and leave the door open, so only pimp runs, tank should fill up to pressure in about 7 mins or so. Then close door and car should rise straight away. Sometimes you do have to press the up button. but should rise with full tank

Cheers rubberknees. I only waited about 2-3 minutes. I'll return to it in the morning.