EAS (again!)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
You can remove the solenoid coils and swap the valve under them round but the coils must go back in the same place. Where the base of the valve sits on the block. Make sure it is absolutely flat. Over tightening the screws can distort them. If they are not flat rub gently in a figure of eight on a piece of 320 wet or dry placed on a flat surface until they are flat. Don't over tighten screws.

PS. You can only swap the four corner valves around you CANNOT swap a corner valve for an exhaust or inlet valve.
 
Last edited:
Had a look and she's sat on her haunches again. With that connector out I think that eliminates any computer issues. So, must be something in that valve-block.

@SaintV8: valid point. Didn't think of that. Disaster averted!

@DataTek: was last night. Line straight to each rear bag from valve block end. Didn't drop a single millimetre. (Anyone noticed the spell check on here appears to be american?!)

@Wammers: good call. Shouldn't take too long. Just a few screws. Haven't got time today but I'll swap over the the little pitson valve things tomorrow. Just the top 2. So, that'd be the second and third in from the bulkhead?

Thanks chaps. Cannot be far off a solution now!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Had a look and she's sat on her haunches again. With that connector out I think that eliminates any computer issues. So, must be something in that valve-block.

@SaintV8: valid point. Didn't think of that. Disaster averted!

@DataTek: was last night. Line straight to each rear bag from valve block end. Didn't drop a single millimetre. (Anyone noticed the spell check on here appears to be american?!)

@Wammers: good call. Shouldn't take too long. Just a few screws. Haven't got time today but I'll swap over the the little pitson valve things tomorrow. Just the top 2. So, that'd be the second and third in from the bulkhead?

Thanks chaps. Cannot be far off a solution now!
Click to expand...

Yep first from bulkhead is diaphragm solenoid valve, then rear left then front right. Take off the coils and remove the valves. If anything is leaking it is going to be either the O ring at the bottom if the valve case is not flat. Or the solenoid seal itself. So check for flatness and sort that if needed. Then split the valve by removing the two small self tappers. Check there is no contamination on the rubber seal in the bottom of the solenoid shaft. If there is gently clean off. Reassemble and swap over the two valves replacing the coils in the position they came from. Then see what you get.
 
Last edited:
35855d1348599996-another-eas-problem-p38_valve_block.jpg
 
Probably didn't explain myself very well.

I took the rear pipes out of the valve-block and into a t-piece of my emergency access kit and inflated from there. Left overnight: no drop. So, from the ends of the pipes at the valve-block end to the rear airbags there is no leak. Therefore leak must be further upstream.

Just swapped over (checking SaintV8's diagram) rear-left and front-right valves. Getting cold out there! Couple of odd things:

1) Thermal switch was showing as HOT again so had to force the pump on. Seems to have a mind of its own.

2) Front took absolutely ages to come up.

3) When I tried to open the valves using the Nanocom nothing seemed to happen. Maybe it only works when the engine is off. Alternatively, I guess I may finally have to read the instructions!

Anyway, I'll look out in the morning and see which way the car is pitching!

J
 
Bingo, well, sort of.

Both front and back of car down this morning. So, as I never swapped the solenoid cap it must be the valve.

I think I know the o-ring you're talking about Wammers. You split the valve in 2 and on the piston itself there's a little thin one that fits on the flared part of the piston and mates with a groove on the housing. I'll whip the valve-block off this evening and try fiddling with those rings. Could be it did something funny on refitting.

After that just the strange intermittant HOT message from the thermal switch to sort.

Cheers,

J
 
Grrrrrr said:
Bingo, well, sort of.

Both front and back of car down this morning. So, as I never swapped the solenoid cap it must be the valve.

I think I know the o-ring you're talking about Wammers. You split the valve in 2 and on the piston itself there's a little thin one that fits on the flared part of the piston and mates with a groove on the housing. I'll whip the valve-block off this evening and try fiddling with those rings. Could be it did something funny on refitting.

After that just the strange intermittant HOT message from the thermal switch to sort.

Cheers,

J
Click to expand...

No the one that will cause the corners to drop is the small one of the two at base of valve that clamps direct on to alloy block. Either that or the seal in the end of the solenoid shaft. The small one on the shaft itself can only leak when valve case is under pressure when bag is being filled. The small O ring on the base and the seal on the solenoid valve end retain pressure within the bag. All the others just prevent air loss when air is passing from the tank into the bag via the valve. Maybe you need to totally change the O rings. Follow the link in my "How to" for valve block repair.
 
Last edited:
Took the valve-block off earlier. Turned out it was just the side of the car I could see. Other side was still up so I know which 2 valves it is.

I changed all o-rings I could find last time. Just finishing work now but I'll take some photos later when I take it apart and check we're talking about the same o-rings.

J
 
OK, bit of a delay there. Own fault for saying I'd be finished before 7. kiss of death there.

Right, on the pictures the red arrow points at the o-ring I suspected! I think you're on about the ones in yellow. Oddly, they're the same size as the ones that were originally on there, maybe marginally fatter and they do protrude past the bottom of the base so should be OK.

I changed all these o-rings on Friday. I guess I could order another lot from somewhere else. I'll see if I can wedge a bigger one in there and squash it down.

Oddly enough, the solenoids themselves have a square recess that looks like it should have a ring but none of mine do. Is that OK?

J
 
The one in red will not be causing the corners to drop. The smaller yellow marked one will. The square recess is used on the base of the coil on the diaphragm solenoid valve only.
 
Last edited:
OK. Well, I've picked out the fattest ones (better than originals) and screwed down with more force than before. I'm a little hesitant about screwing down too hard as I've previous on overtightening and shearing / stripping, not least the exhaust valve which sheared off in my fingers earlier today!

Thanks for all the advice.

Time to go refit and test ...
 
On, I did notice the bottom of the pistons had little rings in them and look pretty old. Looks like I cannot do much about that though without replacing altogether.

The upside to all this is that it all comes off in about 5 minutes, bar opening up, getting changed etc.
 
OK, let's hope it is still up in the morning.

What a palavar that was. Effin compressor reading as HOT and refused to come on. Had to force it on with the Nanocom then switch off, wait for suspension to decide to open the front valves then force it on again. Trying to open valves with Nanocom did nothing again. Got there in the end but there's definitely something wrong with that thermal switch - or the EAS ECU and I don't want to think about that possibility.

Goodnight chaps!
 
Right hand side (I never switched the valves back to their original positions) on the bump-stops.

Those were brand new o-rings too. Think I'll be spending a bit more with symlisep38parts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

JamesBB
P38A EAS again.
2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
JamesBB
JamesBB
ar1g3
P38A Which EAS repair kit to get?
Replies
18
Views
2K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
feyniriel
If you start feeling irregular vibration that comes and goes on P38, it could be the EAS compressor!
Replies
6
Views
505
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
S
Air to Springs
5 6 7
Replies
134
Views
7K
Rubberknees
Rubberknees
pwood999
P38A Asthmatic EAS Exhaust Port !!
Replies
6
Views
1K
pwood999
pwood999
Back
Top