Early P38 EKA code input?

Hi all!
Trying to help a friend out with his 1995 poverty spec 2.5 diesel P38. He left it for a while with the battery off and now has the dreaded "lockout" on dash. He has watched Youtube vids on using the EKA code etc.. but I have a feeling the process is slightly different on early P38? Can anyone give advice? Thanks!

jimmacD said:

Hi all!
Trying to help a friend out with his 1995 poverty spec 2.5 diesel P38. He left it for a while with the battery off and now has the dreaded "lockout" on dash. He has watched Youtube vids on using the EKA code etc.. but I have a feeling the process is slightly different on early P38? Can anyone give advice? Thanks!

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I'm not aware of any difference other than the fact that EKA cannot be entered via diagnostics on early cars.

Datatek said:

I'm not aware of any difference other than the fact that EKA cannot be entered via diagnostics on early cars.

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Hi Datatek, He has hawkeye but I said it probably wasn't any use if becm is locked out... possibly a send away job? I saw a post few years back which gave EKA process as initially clockwise in the door lock to inform becm of the owner's futile attempts? It doesn't help that the chap left keys in when reconnecting the battery, doh! He has smashed driver's window to get in. It's been years since I have had to use an EKA code on my P38s..... does he need to reset windows before starting? I have offered my services to him as he needs to sell and fund a mobility scooter due to onset Alzheimers, so would rather not be selling it as scrap.

Step one: Wait for Keycode Lockout message to timeout.
Step two. Follow RAVE procedure & hope the door latches are working correctly.
Step three. If EKA doesn't work, check door latches !!

Early cars might not require the 4 turns anti-clockwise at the start, but it cannot hurt.

@jimmacD Remember, the most important parts of the procedure are:

1. Start with all doors closed & windows open.
2. If doors do not unlock at the end, then EKA has not been accepted.
3. If it doesn't work, Open the Door after two attempts, or it will go into Keycode Lockout again.

EKA entry and if latch not working attached

Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now

going to enter the EKA Code>

Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for

each time.

Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to

vertical for each time.

Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for

each time.

Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for

each time.

Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be

re-mobilised.

It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each keyturn

AND back to vertical (and no further).

The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.

The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system

was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.

If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the

engine.

If the switches are inoperative then EKA entry may be simulated by shorting the wires at the plug(s)

if you have access to the inside of the door on the driver’s side with the door-card removed.

A short between the Black Wire and the White wire simulates an “Anticlockwise” or “Lock” action of

the key.

A short between the Black wire and the RED wire simulates a “Clockwise” or “Unlock” action of the

key.

This may (at the very least) enable the EKA code to be entered and normal key-fob locking/unlocking

and engine starting to resume.

jimmacD said:

Hi Datatek, He has hawkeye but I said it probably wasn't any use if becm is locked out... possibly a send away job? I saw a post few years back which gave EKA process as initially clockwise in the door lock to inform becm of the owner's futile attempts? It doesn't help that the chap left keys in when reconnecting the battery, doh! He has smashed driver's window to get in. It's been years since I have had to use an EKA code on my P38s..... does he need to reset windows before starting? I have offered my services to him as he needs to sell and fund a mobility scooter due to onset Alzheimers, so would rather not be selling it as scrap.

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A key code lock out is not the same as the BECM becoming locked which is a pretty unlikely event. The window do not need to be reset before starting.
Once he gets the EKA accepted, if Hawkeye will do it, go into the BECM and turn off the EKA function and the immobiliser which will ensure he never has the problem again.

Hi. You've probably been here before but even though I have no issues at the moment I'm frightened to use the remote fob with the car as I can't get an EKA code. I've tried the local dealer who couldn't find it and referred me to JLR uk. After an exhaustive search by them, they were also unable to find an EKA code. The car's a WA vin (late 98 GEMS). It's a Japanese import so I'm not sure if that has any bearing on it as I understand some of the export configurations had all this disabled.
Any ideas welcome.

Hawkeye won’t work. Need a nanocom 06 , faultmate or testbook T4.
Other thing is it could have lost sync which would require diagnostics iirc
For EKA entry @DanClarke did a good write up on here, but is as you showed above. Door lock needs to be 100% operational
Are you 100% the EKA you have is correct for that vehicle is another possibility

No difference on early cars.

Rick-the-pick recommends putting the window down and using the sill button at the same yime you use the lock. Open the door after 2 failed attempts to reset the lockout count. As others have said, needs all 3 microswitches in the latxh working and if the message is on the dash you have to wait.

On early diesel p38s you can use the cheaper door latch option if micro switches are deaded. Rover one, I forget the details but @Grrrrrr or @brianp38dse will remember better than me

Early MGF door locks fit i believe, i am going to try and get some as today i was working opposite a guy who deals in MGF`s and one had a website if i can remember it

Johngib said:

Hi. You've probably been here before but even though I have no issues at the moment I'm frightened to use the remote fob with the car as I can't get an EKA code. I've tried the local dealer who couldn't find it and referred me to JLR uk. After an exhaustive search by them, they were also unable to find an EKA code. The car's a WA vin (late 98 GEMS). It's a Japanese import so I'm not sure if that has any bearing on it as I understand some of the export configurations had all this disabled.
Any ideas welcome.

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As said many times, get the EKA and Immobiliser turned off in the BECM and the you will never need the EKA code and the car can be operated with just the key if the FOB fails.

Here's the EKA procedure, just as a step by step. No different from the manual write-up but a little bit more explicit.

Datatek said:

As said many times, get the EKA and Immobiliser turned off in the BECM and the you will never need the EKA code and the car can be operated with just the key if the FOB fails.

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This would be ideal. It may already have been done but I don't know. I bought the RSW software back in October but I'm still waiting for the hardware and not getting any response to my emails... Is this a job for my Land Rover dealer because they haven't inspired me with a lot of confidence. (My wife's Jaguar but that's another story). At the minute I don't have a working fob and I'm not inclined to fix it in case it just causes problems. Everything is working fine without it.

Johngib said:

This would be ideal. It may already have been done but I don't know. I bought the RSW software back in October but I'm still waiting for the hardware and not getting any response to my emails... Is this a job for my Land Rover dealer because they haven't inspired me with a lot of confidence. (My wife's Jaguar but that's another story). At the minute I don't have a working fob and I'm not inclined to fix it in case it just causes problems. Everything is working fine without it.

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If the car is working with no FOB and you do not have to enter the EKA code every time you unlock, the EKA must have been turned off.
The RSW software if it's the EAS suite, runs on any windows PC and is a free download.
EKA and the immobiliser can be turned off with Nanocom or Faultmate, no need for a dealer.

Datatek said:

If the car is working with no FOB and you do not have to enter the EKA code every time you unlock, the EKA must have been turned off.
The RSW software if it's the EAS suite, runs on any windows PC and is a free download.
EKA and the immobiliser can be turned off with Nanocom or Faultmate, no need for a dealer.

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Thanks for the reply. Does that mean the immobiliser will be turned off as well?.
It's the full £180 EAS package I bought and downloaded. The software all looks fine but I need the cables that were part of the package. I'm hoping it's just a collection of rs232 to OBDs so I can work it out and make them myself. Otherwise that's £180 down the toilet. Feeling a bit scammed.

Johngib said:

Thanks for the reply. Does that mean the immobiliser will be turned off as well?.
It's the full £180 EAS package I bought and downloaded. The software all looks fine but I need the cables that were part of the package. I'm hoping it's just a collection of rs232 to OBDs so I can work it out and make them myself. Otherwise that's £180 down the toilet. Feeling a bit scammed.

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I hate to say this but the EAS unlock is a free download and Datatek would probably have made you a cable for a fraction of that price. Storey Wilson may have added some functionality on top of the free version. Storey is a decent chap but if you bought direct from him it'll probably be stuck in customs somewhere.

Grrrrrr said:

I hate to say this but the EAS unlock is a free download and Datatek would probably have made you a cable for a fraction of that price. Storey Wilson may have added some functionality on top of the free version. Storey is a decent chap but if you bought direct from him it'll probably be stuck in customs somewhere.

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I got the free download a while back and made up the cable for that (pretty straightforward) but that only covers the suspension. I need to sus out how it talks to the other things. In particular the Hevac. I've an issue with that I was hoping to look at with it. If it's just another cable I have no issue making it myself but I don't have a pinout for it and looking at the ODB pinout there's no direct Hevac rs232 so I'm guessing canbus
Maybe the hardware will turn up but I'm not getting any response from my emails so not holding out much hope.

It doesn’t. It’s just EAS. Nanocom or faultmate talks to everything else.