Dynamat noise underbonnet on Defender

Spent a little time this weekend fitting the Dynamat kit to the 110's bonnet.

Have to say the kit is very sell produced and the instructions very easy to follow. Took about an hour or so in total.

yet to take it out to see what difference it makes. watch this space.

thought it might be useful for others considering it if i 'reviewed' it once I've had chance.

Kit was £57 through eBay

Some pics of the work

Why on earth is it not a complete blanket ?
Does it work ?
Whats with the stereo ?

It's got backing glue so I suspect it wouldnt work as a full blanket because of all the shapes and cut outs. Not sure if it works yet - will take it out tomorrow hopefully to see.
It comes in a sheet (see pic) but with all the shapes cut out like an airfix kit.
the speaker is a Bluetooth jobbie so i could listen to music whilst i worked. Assumed it would be more stressful than it was so I put something soothing on

What happened to the original sound insulation mat?
£57, I think you've been done.

Did it even have a mat as factory fit??
On what basis do you come to that rather succinct conclusion Sofasurfer?

Some did have a factory foam fit, about £80 off ebay.

I think dynamat is wildly over priced for what it is, look at Fatmat, almost identical product at a fraction of the price.

It's just a bit of foam with instructions. Any money spent trying to reduce noise or stop leaks on a Defender is wasted.

Bankz - ah. I didnt know that but our 110 is completely standard so it would appear ours probably never had it. It does have the sound deadening around the floorbox/bulkhead though.

SS - It's not foam. It's a sort of sticky bitumen kind of thing.
I'm happy with any reduction of noise. We're doing a 10 hour stint to Orkney in January so frankly i couldnt care a less for 57 quid. If it helps by a dB or two that will count as serious VFM in my book!!

When I bought my hardtop it was lined with plywood. I ripped it out and removed all the floor mats and foot well linings. Most of the rattles were from the jack and dash. Oil change and diesel additive quietened the engine a bit.

Sofasurfer said:

It's just a bit of foam with instructions. Any money spent trying to reduce noise or stop leaks on a Defender is wasted.

Click to expand...

That just isnt true. When I finished soundproofing my 90 it was at least 30% quieter than standard and what i did wasnt that extreme. Before you couldnt have a conversatiom at 70, after you easily could.

I plan to do much more on my 110.

Thats exactly where i am at Bankz.
I'm not trying to get the thing Lexus quiet but i do want to talk to my other half on the trip during the 10 hour drive !!!!
Our's isnt that bad as its got carpet, rubber mats etc etc but any additional reduction is worthwhile and I know there are opportunities to grab in this regard as you rightly point out above.

Good luck with the sound deadening project and be sure to let us know how you get on with it. I'm looking for noise reductions for one of my other landies (hippo) which I've made rather noisy by fitting 225/75/16 KL71's onto it, you can have a conversation in it at 70 but I reckon a ten hour trek would give me a headache.

Jayridium said:

Good luck with the sound deadening project and be sure to let us know how you get on with it. I'm looking for noise reductions for one of my other landies (hippo) which I've made rather noisy by fitting 225/75/16 KL71's onto it, you can have a conversation in it at 70 but I reckon a ten hour trek would give me a headache.

Click to expand...

forgot to say... closed cell foam is also very good as a noise reducer, the bitumen stuff adds mass to the panels making it harder for the noise to make them move, the closed cell foam can go ontop of the bitumen stuff and it creates a barrier like a maze to stop the sound getting to the bitumen which further dissipates the noise.I did some bitumen stuff on the floorpan of her disco 300tdi, and then topped that with open cell foil backed foam (my mistake meant to buy closed cell foam) and had some really good results. Its taken a lot of the noise from her landies marix puma's out of the cabin.

I'll have a look into that stuff. Where did you buy it from and is it self adhesive and non-flammable?

Most of the noise from mine was being caused by loose bits and junk. There were coins behind everything, loose jack and wheel wrench, door cards loose, radio wobbly, A joint knocking, spare wheel rattling on the back door, dash loose, battery not secured. . . . I couldn't hear the engine! All junk removed, bits tightened and relax. Top speed in mine is 55mph, the noise is part of the adventure

I think Dynamat is supposed to be good at what it does and likely to be Butyl based which is better at panel drumming deadening, less smelly (when gets hot) and more expensive than the cheaper bitumen. You get what you pay for....and you see when you tap the outside of yer bonnet now!

Open cell foam (preferably egg box shapes) to absorb airborn noise and closed cell being more dense and 'closed' is good for possible damp places to stop the transference of noise as it doesn't hold moisture.

A combo of all 3 will be best so keep going - good job so far.....

It is a very labourious process but well worth it imo.

Ideally you need to combine various materials to get the best result.

Fatmat/dynamat on any metal surface

Or LizardSkin spray on - not used it yet but I have got a tub which I intend to use on my doors.

Anywhere that may rust or be damp then use closed cell foam on top, thicker you can fit the better.

No risk of water/rust then use open cell foam

Then layer your carpet or rubber over the top. I didnt put any foam under my carpet as it made the carpet too difficult to fit properly so just used the top spec Fatmat instead.

- However I do plan to spray most of the underside witg LizardSkin then a coat of Raptor over the top.

Roof use a few patches of Fatmat/Dynamat and cover the lot with open cell foam, same stuff youd use in a studio. Makes a big difference imo

When Im done it should be at least 40% quieter, most likely more.

Biggest source of noise/vibration does come from the main bulkhead, which is tough to soundproof without stipping the lot down which takes an enourmous amount of work!! Though if replacing the bulkhead for example then I would.

I fitted a NK underbonnet kit to my TD5 Defender 110 CSW, as the TD5 bonnet has no soundproofing as standard.
l can't say l noticed much difference, although there's a bit less engine noise when driving with the vent flaps open.

I posted quite a bit on this in recent months: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sound-proofing.320310/

It is possible to make a big difference to the noise levels without risking a major water trap and associated corrosion problems.