Datatek
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If you have the EAS module for your Faultmate you can operate the compressor and command the EAS to go to any of the 4 heights with the engine off key in position 2.
DSE in Distress!
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If you have the EAS module for your Faultmate you can operate the compressor and command the EAS to go to any of the 4 heights with the engine off key in position 2.
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
If you are buying the timing tools there should be a crank holder in that. You will need it to torque the crankshaft bolt on reassembly. It must be done properly or you could lose drive to the oil pump.
Hi Datatek,
I gave this a go. I can start the compressor okay, but couldn't find a way to make the height change.
If I command a height, it says that the doors must be shut and the engine running. I can close all the doors and bonnets, but nothing happens.
As far as the controls in the car are concerned, all four heights and the inhibit switch are illuminated.
Any thoughts on what else I can do? There are several options of opening/closing valves and the vehicle can be put in different "locks" (e.g. transport lock). None of these seemed to help.
Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong, or if it's the version of Vehicle Explorer or something else?
Cheers,
Paul
Datatek
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- Near Poitiers SW France
I use the RSW EAS software, I don't have the Faultmate EAS module, however I can do all operations with the ignition in position 2 engine not running, it will not change height with the doors/tailgate open, nor will it change if you have a duff door switch that make the system think a door is open.
An update - the engine is finally in bits. I only got so far with it, but a mechanic has continued and called me this afternoon.
Apparently the guides are worn away, the chains are stretched, and the sprockets are worn away to being discs with some pointy bits on them. The chains had started eating into the engine!
I'm going to go over and take a look in the morning.
I did some research and a set of chains, sprockets, tensioners and guides is around 400 quid. To change the upper chain and sprockets I guess the head also needs to come off? At the moment the sump is off.
Any initial thoughts on what others would do? My fear is that the engine is way past its best (it's done 343K!) and not worth investing time and money. That said, it ran beautifully before. I also don't know if there's valve/piston damage - that said it was running, just very noisy and difficult to start.
Also, any pointers where to get the parts at a better price? So far I priced up from Island4x4 who I usually use.
Any guidance welcome. I miss my Rangie!
Cheers,
Paul
Apparently the guides are worn away, the chains are stretched, and the sprockets are worn away to being discs with some pointy bits on them. The chains had started eating into the engine!
I'm going to go over and take a look in the morning.
I did some research and a set of chains, sprockets, tensioners and guides is around 400 quid. To change the upper chain and sprockets I guess the head also needs to come off? At the moment the sump is off.
Any initial thoughts on what others would do? My fear is that the engine is way past its best (it's done 343K!) and not worth investing time and money. That said, it ran beautifully before. I also don't know if there's valve/piston damage - that said it was running, just very noisy and difficult to start.
Also, any pointers where to get the parts at a better price? So far I priced up from Island4x4 who I usually use.
Any guidance welcome. I miss my Rangie!
Cheers,
Paul
kds
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Second hand donkey out of Vauxhall Omega perhaps ?
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
With the front cover off you can change the cam sprocket and chain without removing the head. It's re sealing the timing case to the head if the gasket is damaged that is the problem. Hylomar is the only viable solution to that.
Hi All,
As an update I have rebuilt the engine with new chains and sprockets.
I finished putting it together today - it started straight up and sounds like it used to.
The major problem I have is that there is no oil pressure. I had to remove the strainer from the pump to get the sump off, but it all went back together okay. I've tried adding oil directly into the oil filter canister, but no joy.
Any ideas on how to get a prime on the oil pump - assuming that's the source of the problem?
Cheers,
Paul
As an update I have rebuilt the engine with new chains and sprockets.
I finished putting it together today - it started straight up and sounds like it used to.
The major problem I have is that there is no oil pressure. I had to remove the strainer from the pump to get the sump off, but it all went back together okay. I've tried adding oil directly into the oil filter canister, but no joy.
Any ideas on how to get a prime on the oil pump - assuming that's the source of the problem?
Cheers,
Paul
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I remember reading someshere about having to be careful getting the crank(?) pulley off and on again as it is easy to dislodge the Oil Pump drive....
The old way of priming the oil pump on gear pumps was to fill it with vaseline IIRC....sure I read that somewhere, but never done it myself...
The old way of priming the oil pump on gear pumps was to fill it with vaseline IIRC....sure I read that somewhere, but never done it myself...
I was careful not to dislodge anything there, and the oil pump was not removed.
I'm assuming I'm going to have to drop the sump again and take another look to see if the pickup pipe is the issue - I guess if I remove that I may also be able to look into the pump and check it turns with the crank - naturally I welcome any other suggestions....
Cheers,
Paul
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Did you torque the crank pulley up as described in RAVE. If it is not tight enough you will have no drive to the oil pump. The oil pump drive is a nip fit between the crank and the pulley. IT MUST be correctly torqued.
Hi Wammers, yes it was done to the same spec - 100nm + 150 degrees - it took an impact wrench to get it there as that's a hell of a tightening.
Cheers,
Paul
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
I would not use an impact gun to angle tighten. Not torquing correctly is the usual reason for loss of pump drive. Looks like you have some investigating to do.
Yes, agreed. I'll drop the sump in the morning and see if I can trace the problem to either loss of pump drive or a problem with the pick up. If it's neither of those I'll see if I can figure a way to prime the system.
Cheers,
Paul
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
If the pump has never been off it should be primed enough. Any sort of air leak on the pickup pipe flange with prevent oil suction from the sump.
Thanks Wammers! I'll post back with progress....
Okay,here's the update
It seems I was a fool - after dropping the sump I discovered the pick up gasket was cocket over at 30 degrees and blocking the oil passage.
After rectifying that, the engine started and oil pressure quickly appeared.
I then let the engine warm bfore driving home.
Thanks for all your help everyone with this job. I hope to be able to make any final commissioning and put the car back in service.
Cheers Paul
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Okay,here's the update
It seems I was a fool - after dropping the sump I discovered the pick up gasket was cocket over at 30 degrees and blocking the oil passage.
After rectifying that, the engine started and oil pressure quickly appeared.
I then let the engine warm bfore driving home.
Thanks for all your help everyone with this job. I hope to be able to make any final commissioning and put the car back in service.
Cheers Paul
Blocking the hole will do it every time. Bit like a oil pick up chastity belt. Top marks for admitting it.
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
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Glad you didn't rip the head off as suggested , sometime what rave says and what we do are another thing !! bit like taking the dash out for o rings
bit like taking the dash out for o rings
