droplinks not the prob?

Anyone any ideas on last post?

garrytd4 said:

cool. i havnt found the time to do my antiroll bar bushes, but im hoping that will cure the knocking.

I also have track rod end ball joints to fit.
As you have to pop the ball out when removing then unscrew the remaining part, how are you ment to get the new one on, when you have to break the old old one

Click to expand...

what ?

You don't have to break anything, unless the ball joint won't split from the suspension and you get angry with the hammer

This is how you go about it:

Undo the pinch nut on the ball joint where it screws onto the track rod end. Undo the big nut holding the ball joint in place on the suspension strut. Split the ball joint as you see fit. Undscrew the ball joint from the track rod end making sure you count the number of turns so you know how far to turn the new one on. You might need a pair of mole grips on there to turn the thing initially. Remember also that one side is a RH thread and the other a LH thread (can't remember which).

Putting the new one on is simply this procedure, but in reverse. I use some copper grease on the pinch bolt and on the thread of the new ball joint to make life easier in the future.

15mins a side, tops. And that includes removing each front wheel.

That's for the reply Craig. Buy y do you have to split the old ball joint then unscrew it off. And not just unscrewing it without splittling it, seeing as the new one just screws on? I hope that makes sense

if you need to remove taper ball joint such as drop links or track rod hit end of arm near socket for ball joint properly and ball joint will pop loose without damage

I mean do I have to split the new replacement ball joint before i fit it and then pop it back together once its on?

how ,it screws into track rod then joint taper fits in the hole

Yeh thats what I thought. So why the need to split the old one? Am I just being annoying now? Lol

thers no need hit arm taper wil spring out unscrew ball joint refit new

I think the word "split" is causing the confusion here. What is meant is to "separate the ball joint from the suspension strut once the taper nut is undone". Commonly known as "splitting".

James is correct: it SHOULD just pop out, but, depending if the nut was done up greater than the specified torque, the taper may be wedged in and will require a tap from a hammer under it or use of a ball joint splitter (separator) to force the taper through.

If you do use a hammer, the only damage you'll do is knacker the thread end of the taper. But that doesn't matter as it's the old one and you're replacing the whole joint

I'd be pretty impressed if you really DID split the ball joint by clobbering it with a hammer.... it would have to seriously be in there for you to hit it that hard

The taper of the new ball joint should just push into place and the nut tightened up. Tis simple, I swear to thee...

Just a couple of thoughts on this, firstly regarding drop-link length, secondly the knocking noise.

Changing the length of the drop links may alter the effect of the anti-roll bar rate, it's a trick employed on track cars to set up handling, not sure which way it goes, if longer makes the car stiffer or softer, just came across that little snippet in a Ford specialist magazine.

The other thing is the ARB itself, they have been known to move sideways and catch other suspension parts, there should be signs of contact if this has been the case.

Thanks for the input. So if the roll bar moves sideways, then would the bushes be worn? I'll be replacing mine soon. Is there a way of centralising the rollbar?

If your roll bar can move sideways, then yes it would suggest your bushes are worn. Centralising the bar is done as there are two flanges on the bar that butt up against the bushes, which should stop any lateral movement.

hth.

Hoppo

Tried to change the drop links this morning .what a pain in the a**e,bust 2 allen keys well twisted them.going to grind them off tommorow.

good luck, luckily i had minimal trouble doing them, although found it hard to get the back on, i used the car jack to lift the suspension/wishbone up so i could line up the droplink thread up with the roll bar. im not sure if anyone has had to do similar, would like to know.

adding to this, completed doing the track rod end ball joints today, no different on the knocking.

will be doing the roll bar bushes during the week, do you think i should replace the droplinks again after the doing the bushes?

Also. While I was replacing track rod ends I noticed that when on full lock I could practically move the droplinks and make them touch the closest thing to it. Could this mean that the roll bar bushes are buggered? Surely it shouldn't be doing this.

I've just done my track rod ends today, whilst i was there i gave the drop links a tug and they didn't move at all ne'r mind touch owt else!

Did the ARB move with the drop links?

yes it did slightly

sorry to drag out this tread...

i replaced my ARB bushes today and now its as stiff as corps. i cant budge it atall, which is a good sign right. Im pretty sure its as central as it can be.
HOWEVER...knocking still there.
do you think i should replace the the droplinks again one more time, they are only pence and the ones i bought might of been the choclate ones.
And if that dont cure it i dont know what to do next.