Drivers door dead bolted

I have looked at all the threads surrounding the problem and have come to the conclusion that the drivers central locking motor in dead. Problem is that the door is dead bolted and can't open it with key or pulling up the door knob. So how can I get to the mechanism if the door remains shut?

Commonly known as a Brixton Key or a Tottenham Key.....

As I see your in Wales, I believe they are called a Cardiff Key....

Weighs about 3lb's, Light Brown/Terracota in colour, 215x105x85 in size or thereabouts and is usually made from baked clay.....Also helpful to get into Homes, Shops and Factories.....

On a more serious note...I have no idea....I am not sure if the Super Locking dead bolt is powered locked, i.e. it requires power to remain locked so if you remove the battery it will release but you will still have to over come the conventional door lock.....but I have no idea on that.

The lock has two motors, one for the lock and one for the dealocked SuperLocking bolts....

Anyone else had this issue?? and how did you finally get in??

Either cut through the lock catch or lower the window and use a long sharp screwdriver in the gap between the window seals to smash the plastic latch mechanism. This will allow a superlocked door to open.

I think the OP can't even open the door so won't be able to open the windows....

My '85 RRC drivers door totally locked up on me a while back.
Although aimed at a later P38 Rangie ('cos the early ones weren't sold in USA), these two articles gave me enough info to get the door open.

Door Lock Failure: Getting the Door Open (4.0/4.6/p38A)

Alternative way to Getting the Door Open (4.0/4.6/p38A)

It was a very small worn cam that caused my problem, and I had to fit a new lock. Make doubley sure you order the correct lock. They do vary considerably, as do many many fittings around the '84 to '87 period.

Johnny.

Errr Johnny, many thanks for your post, but the vehicle in question is a P38A Second Generation Rangie built between 1995-2001.....

But the links are for a P38....so hopefully the OP will find some usefull stuff in them...

jwm said:

My '85 RRC drivers door totally locked up on me a while back.
Although aimed at a later P38 Rangie ('cos the early ones weren't sold in USA), these two articles gave me enough info to get the door open.

Door Lock Failure: Getting the Door Open (4.0/4.6/p38A)

Alternative way to Getting the Door Open (4.0/4.6/p38A)

It was a very small worn cam that caused my problem, and I had to fit a new lock. Make doubley sure you order the correct lock. They do vary considerably, as do many many fittings around the '84 to '87 period.

Johnny.

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Mines a 2000 model Holland and Holland 4.6 petrol station lover!! Not read the thread yet about to do that, My main question will be if I do open the door by whatever means will I be able to re-lock the door via key until such a time as I can get replacement parts?

I could get in and out via the passenger door, so it wasn't a huge problem for me, but where I live, just leaving it unlocked was safe enough.

From the articles, I gathered that I might need to break the lock, so I ordered a new lock first. Being unsure of the exact type needed, I ordered both, and sent the unused one back for a refund. As it happened, breaking the lock wasn't neccessary, as the earlier locks don't have a covered cam.

Fitted the new lock anyway, as the cam was worn, but the wedge and the long rod used to push the cam is permanently stored in the front bumper ... just in case it's needed again.

Johnny.

alpinapete said:

Mines a 2000 model Holland and Holland 4.6 petrol station lover!! Not read the thread yet about to do that, My main question will be if I do open the door by whatever means will I be able to re-lock the door via key until such a time as I can get replacement parts?

Click to expand...

Not knowing what the problem/damage is - maybe, maybe not...

If it is just a microswitch then yes, but you will need to manualy lock all the other doors, but the tailgate won't lock....

If it is a busted lock mechanism - probably not.

If it is just disconnected rods - reconnect and then see what happens....

In any case, if you lock with the key in the door, and the microswitch is knackered, the alarm won't be armed and nor will the immbiliser (but with the perpensity for the BeCM to play games - you may need to enter the EKA each time)

I have printed off the procedures to gain entry to the mechanism and will be mindfull that there may be slight differences due to the age of the vehicle. I will give this a try at the weekend, if anyone else has had the same problems with the same year of vehicle I would welcome your input also. Thank you all so far. Regards
Pete

I have made the problem worse!!! The car has had problems with the BCM water ingress and each night we disconnect the battery as the lights seem to come on when parked on our drive. After disconnecting the battery and locking all the doors now find I can't get into the car at all. Totally despaired with this it looks like the final straw with the wife, so I need to get into battery area so I can unlock the doors. Whats the best way without causing damage?

I know this is a P38, but I had a '97 740iL with a broken bonnet release lever....

To open the bonnet I could get a long shank allen key in through the grill and hook the release cable....a sharp tug would release the catch...(obviously had to do it twice as there was two catches)

Maybe a similar process could be had on the P38....the next options would be a brick (the Brixton/Tottenham/Cardif Key) or a decent locksmith worth his salt could do the trick or even the AA or RAC may help if you are a member....I believe a few of them are quite skilled at getting into locked vehicles without breaking windows....

Saint.V8 said:

I know this is a P38, but I had a '97 740iL with a broken bonnet release lever....

To open the bonnet I could get a long shank allen key in through the grill and hook the release cable....a sharp tug would release the catch...(obviously had to do it twice as there was two catches)

Maybe a similar process could be had on the P38....the next options would be a brick (the Brixton/Tottenham/Cardif Key) or a decent locksmith worth his salt could do the trick or even the AA or RAC may help if you are a member....I believe a few of them are quite skilled at getting into locked vehicles without breaking windows....

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Thank you saint for the advice, I will try this after my dinner and report back, I will also have to risk the battery being connected over night.

Latest news managed to get into the engine compartment and open the bonnet. My son then opened the drivers window fully and pushed down the lever that is connected to the inner door handle pull (the dead lock switch). we tried the door and it opened. Then through a couple of times went through the same thing which lead us to believe that is was sticking, proceeded to douse with WD40 and hey presto no more problems.:blabla::blabla::blabla: Wooohooo no money to spend

Top Job, well done chap....

How did you get into the Engine bay in the end...or is a state guarded secret...

My son lay on his back and having better eyesight than me with the use of a torch and fishing bank stick was able to actuate the mechanism holding the bonnet shut.

I can't make the jump from getting the bonnet open to being able to open the window. What am I missing?

i think that the relays for the power windows are under the bonnet, with a bit of wire and fiddling it should be possible to get the window to drop.

landyman2005 said:

i think that the relays for the power windows are under the bonnet, with a bit of wire and fiddling it should be possible to get the window to drop.

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Er no the windows are controlled from the BECM via the door outstations.

JohnP38 said:

Er no the windows are controlled from the BECM via the door outstations.

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ooops i stand corrected!