Doriz CSW

Hicap phill said:

Is the cap cracked?
Never seen it coming out there before

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So I've just been out for a poke about. The cap is perished, however, if you squeeze it the grease oozes out

Did you replace the circlip on the end of the drive shaft?
Caps are easy to replace

Hicap phill said:

Did you replace the circlip on the end of the drive shaft?
Caps are easy to replace

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I have never been near the hubs as yet, its on my list. I have ordered a new cap, so when it arrives I'll check the integrity of the circlip.

I have the part to do the tappets - Question, when I replace the rocker gasket do I need anything to seat it like instant gasket sealer or will it just press home?

I do put a smear of clear hylomor each side of the gasket just so it does not move when replacing the cover. Dont need to much.

Don’t forget it’s the rule of nine

Hicap phill said:

I do put a smear of clear hylomor each side of the gasket just so it does not move when replacing the cover. Dont need to much.

Don’t forget it’s the rule of nine

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In desperate straits been known to use a dab of grease ....

Hicap phill said:

I do put a smear of clear hylomor each side of the gasket just so it does not move when replacing the cover. Dont need to much.

Don’t forget it’s the rule of nine

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Is that 9x9 is 81?

doriz said:

Is that 9x9 is 81?

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No, silly, it's a 9 inch rule .... you know... you were twanging the rule on the desk and it snapped ....

Dippypud said:

No, silly, it's a 9 inch rule .... you know... you were twanging the rule on the desk and it snapped ....

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I'm just going to throw french chalk everywhere and hope it improves

I'm in the market for some sill checker - anyone advise me what size (large flange) pop rivets I will need please?

Should be normal 6mm rivets as the checker plate Is countersunk.

I'm going to do the cam belt next week...whilst everything is in bits I will do the water pump, thermostat, belts, the radiator change and hoses - can you think of anything else I should do whilst going deep?

VIN question from my 110 if I may?
Looking at the Rimmer catalogue etc for part numbers I’m directed to the VIN. Anyhoo I look at the engine plate and it don’t match the V5C
Anyhoo, after digging off the wax oil the chassis VIN, engine plate and engine all match. The discrepancy Is the 6th letter, on the V5C shows a ‘B’ which isn’t even listed in the descriptors the Car shows an ‘M’ for 110. Can I simply send this to DVLA (change vehicle details) as it looks like an input error at some point, or should I blast it with pizz .
The unique serial (last 6) match on everything.

Send it to DVLA just fill in the correct number in the change section and add a covering letter to explain its a 110 so should be 'M'

I changed the frame number on my bike recently it was because they had mixed up the last 3 digits Had to chase them with a couple of phone calls but no issue.

Also changed engine number and CC in the overfinch so it was correct also no issues

Much better to have all numbers right this day and age

J

Radiator part number please... Bearmach all metal affair. BTP1823 (R) apparently doesn’t fit a 1991 200 TDI @jamesmartin @Hicap phill

doriz said:

Radiator part number please... Bearmach all metal affair. BTP1823 (R) apparently doesn’t fit a 1991 200 TDI @jamesmartin @Hicap phill

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its the right number only the oil cooler connections might differ due to year,ive had to change those fittings in the past to suit

jamesmartin said:

its the right number only the oil cooler connections might differ due to year,ive had to change those fittings in the past to suit

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I think the Bearmach comes with adaptors for the oil cooler. Cheers @jamesmartin

I have a leak at the rear where the hardtop to body foam seal has perished or gone hard. Is it possible to loosen the fixings to create enough space to fit a new seal or does the panel need to come out which will affect other seals like upper panel to roof seal?

doriz said:

I have a leak at the rear where the hardtop to body foam seal has perished or gone hard. Is it possible to loosen the fixings to create enough space to fit a new seal or does the panel need to come out which will affect other seals like upper panel to roof seal?

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I've only ever taken the sides off or on while the roof was off, but on a 110 I think you'd be lucky to force enough of a gap at the front, especially since the roof seals are probably just as fragile as the body/sides ones. With a 90 (and no B or C post) you'd probably have got away with it.

I think you'd be best to wait for summer and do it properly....

boguing said:

I've only ever taken the sides off or on while the roof was off, but on a 110 I think you'd be lucky to force enough of a gap at the front, especially since the roof seals are probably just as fragile as the body/sides ones. With a 90 (and no B or C post) you'd probably have got away with it.

I think you'd be best to wait for summer and do it properly....

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Grrrrrr